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Somthin happened...

Bowzer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NOR*CAL
but.. I dunno what...

Last Friday afternoon, for the XJ, I bought a new belt and u-joints for the rear DS... installed the u-joints, no problems, less vibes installed the belt, turned it over to check tension/install, it was fine.

Later that night, we get into the XJ after eatin at a restaruant, turn it on, for first couple seconds it ran fine and then started gettin real rough and jittery. CEL illuminated and started blinking. Ofcourse, cussing at the dash didn't help... So, I drove about 3 miles to get to my house, with it blinking and running rough, and parked it for the night. The next morning, same deal, drove it to work (didn't want to but, it's my only ride) had one of my co-workers whip out the code reader and came up with:

P0304 (M) CYLINDER #4 MISFIRE Misfire detected in cylinder #4.

P1281 Engine is Cold Too Long Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel

Thermostat not doin its job? (P1281)

(P0304) I didn't move the crank at all during the belt install and the u-joints have nothing to do with it. So... I'm very confused as to why this missfire happend?



I checked my spark plugs (10k mi on em tops), they're gapped at .035, and don't look bad at all, no darkness.
I did the battery/computer trick while I had the NEG cable off (for the spark plugs). After reconnecting it, I let the XJ idle for about a minute... still rough with no CEL ...

Checked the sensors on the TB, I pulled 2 of em while the engine was running, excluding the MAP (that leaves, TPS and IAC right?)

(this view is as if you're standing at the Driverside fender looking at TB)
I pulled the one on the right/middle (IAC correct?)
throttlebody3.jpg


The XJ kinda choked, smoothed out for a lil bit, then choked again so, I plugged it back in cuz I thought it'd die...


Any comments or ideas are much appreciated... I need to revive my DD!
 
check the fire order make sure the wires are setup like that should be and the distributor rotor (may need replaced). then think about your exaust system (your cat to be exact [not likely])
 
I have a distributerless ignition... I have the "rail"

347362.jpg

$140 from NAPA

I guess I'll start with a cooling system flush, new thermostat.. see how that does. I don't know if I need a new "rail" or not... (2000 Sport, with 93xxx mi)

I had a vaccuum leak awhile back (broken line from intake to vaccuum ball in the F-bumper) fixed it.
 
Check the temp senser in the t-stat housing thats right were you were putting the belt on. When mine went bad it would not run well because the senser got stuck on one temp. Use the scaner and let it run watch the temp and voltage for that senser if it does not change as the jeep get warm its bad. Mine cost $14.00
 
If you read the manual it says not to drive with a CEL blinking because serious damage is about to occur.

Having said that I was having a misfire problem and it proved to be a bad injector on my '01.

I'd say clean the injectors and put them in a different hole. If you still get the misfire but its from a diff. cylinder then you know you have a bad injector. At the same time I'd go ahead and clean out the intake.

When I priced them a new injector from Jeep was 95 bucks. Same injector from the Dodge house...60 bucks.
 
Flushed the system, along with a new Thermostat and Coolant Temp Sensor. No CEL anymore.


Drives fine, still runs a lil rough (probably the consequence of cyl #4)

and now, I have a new noise and/or problem... not surprised at all, its a Jeep...

Now, for the new one: cold idle is fairly rough, kicks every 20 secs or so... once it gets past 110* it'll start to smooth out. From a stop, giving it smooth accel, it hesitates a lil and barley sputters. I get a click/pop sound from the lower/left part of the engine (sounds like the exhaust manifold area, sounds like prying rusty metal) and when it makes that noise I can feel my gas pedal jerk just a lil... so far I've noticed this in 1st, the upshift to 2nd, and 2nd..
 
the CEL is back... it came back on when I was driving on my lunch break today. Parked it at the house, rode the bike back to work. So, I didn't get a chance to check the codes.


:shiver:
 
I found 2 TSBs that include my XJ's symptoms...

09-003-03 Engine Aug 1, 2003
4.0L Multiple Cylinder Misfire
This bulletin involves inspection of all engine exhaust valves and a de-carbonzing procedure if necessary

18-039-03 Vehicle Performance Nov 14, 2003
4.0L Rough Idle Due To High Ambient Temps or Hot Soak Temps
This bulletin invloves selectively erasing and reprogramming the PCM with new software


I know I can de-carbonize it... Sea Foam or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. But, is there a way I can check/adjust the valves myself? Or should I have the Tech at the dealership inspect it while I have the PCM flashed?
 
You might have damaged the temp sensor when looseing and tightening the belt, thats a real close fit there with a socket backing the adjuster... coincidences are rare, you need to really eyeball your work area and everything you touched.
 
some of you need to read a lil more thoroughly...


anyways...


a day at the dealer, they replaced my Champion 4412s with "factory" plugs. (Mopar? I dunno which ones are "factory") with the Cyl4 misfire, the tech switched plugs - misfires moved with the plugs, hence the replacment.

Flashed (reprogrammed) the PCM and ECM... runs good.

they also installed the Recall: Intake Debris/Heat Sheild for free while I was there.
 
Bowzer said:
some of you need to read a lil more thoroughly...


anyways...


a day at the dealer, they replaced my Champion 4412s with "factory" plugs. (Mopar? I dunno which ones are "factory") with the Cyl4 misfire, the tech switched plugs - misfires moved with the plugs, hence the replacment.

Flashed (reprogrammed) the PCM and ECM... runs good.

they also installed the Recall: Intake Debris/Heat Sheild for free while I was there.

The factory OEM plugs always were champion, I'm hearing they are NGK's now...
 
RichP said:
The factory OEM plugs always were champion, I'm hearing they are NGK's now...
On my Work Order, the Mopar part number for the plugs is: SP000ZFR5N...
Champion RC12ECC and NGK ZFR5N are the "same" replacements.
"ZFR5N" is in the P/N so, logically, they're the NGKs?


Well, I guess I'm not goin back to the Truck Plug 4412...
 
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