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fuel system electrical problems

ufc tapout ufc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ca
I have an 87 jeep cheorkee with a 4.0 in it and i went to go start it and it would just turn over but wouldnt start. So i replaced the fuel pump and still nothing, so i checked the wires going to the fuel pump and they had no power going to them, i have spark, i replaced the fuel pump relay and still nothing, i also pressed on the fuel pressure valve thing and gas only dribbles out, i looked for that ballast resistor everyone was talking about and couldnt find it, any ideas ?
 
IF your CPS is good, your fuel pump should energize for@3 seconds when key is turned to on position. Fuel pump will NOT energize with a bad CPS.
CPS are a pain to replace, especially if you are running a clutch. Use an 11mm
socket, extensions, wobble extensions if you have them. It is doable, with patience.
 
Lodi Jim said:
IF your CPS is good, your fuel pump should energize for@3 seconds when key is turned to on position. Fuel pump will NOT energize with a bad CPS.
CPS are a pain to replace, especially if you are running a clutch. Use an 11mm
socket, extensions, wobble extensions if you have them. It is doable, with patience.
Bologna the CPS don't have anything to do with the fuel pump.
It will only run for three seconds though. Look for a broken wire near the rear bump stop.
Check the fuse link from the starter relay to the fuel pump relay.
 
fuel pump relay is easy to check,,,
there are 4 of the same relay mounted under a little plastic cover on the passenger side inner fender, under the hood,
with the key off and out. remove the first one, and them move the other 3 over 1, and replace the fist one where the last one went (cycling the relays)
if that fixes the problem, a new relay is $10 @ autozone
part # MR76

or it could be...
a blown fuel pump. no gas (bad sending unit or gage), corroded wires, so on and on...
 
Pull the fuel pump relay, on the bottom it tells you the contact numbers. 30 is power in from the fusible link, 87 is power out to the pump (with the relay activated), 86 is power from the ignition switch, 85 is the ground through the ECU to activate the relay.
If you have power to 30 and power to 87 with the key on. The problem is downstream from the relay or the activation ground circuit through the ECU.
With an ohm meter you can do a quick circuit test from the 87 pin at the fuel pump relay socket to ground, there should be continity, with some resistance for the pump windings. If you have an open circuit, it's likely a broken wire or a corroded connector.
You can feel if the relay clicks, when the key is turned on.
If there is a break in the wire from the relay 87 pin downstream someplace, you may want to start by dismounting the relay block and turning it over (carefully) and looking at the bottom. It gets pretty darned nasty under there. If I remember correctly the cable goes through the bulkhead connector and under the drivers and passenger door sill plastic panels. And through three or four connectors. The wire changes colors at least once somehwere in the middle of the run and then back again to I think orange or orange with a black stripe.
Something else to keep in mind, the fuel pump needs a lot of juice. A poor connection may test good for voltage, but not pass enough amperage to run the pump, which makes troubleshooting really fun.
Something else that can throw you, some of the fuel pump relays are wired backwords. The 30 and the 87 may be wired backwords. The 85 and 86 may be wired backwords.
The fuel pump relay may even be in the a position different from the book says.
 
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