sye vs HnT

what are the benifits and disadvantages of the HnT vs buying a sye and cv. i dont really wana getto rig my XJ. my brothers stearing me to a new sye and cv what do you guys thinkparty1:

sry i had to ad the lil guy in there it looks like hes having fun.

i think for a difference in $60 the HD SYE is a BIG improvement...

XJ_ranger said:

i think for a difference in $60 the HD SYE is a BIG improvement...

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K, im a newbie can you go a lil more indepth so i understand why im doing what.

I am going with a H&T for a couple reasons.
1 - I found a used H&T in great shape cheap
2 - I don't want to take the Transfer case out of the jeep and take it apart to put the sye in. Or pay for someone to do it.

kscherokee said:

I am going with a H&T for a couple reasons.
1 - I found a used H&T in great shape cheap
2 - I don't want to take the Transfer case out of the jeep and take it apart to put the sye in. Or pay for someone to do it.

Click to expand...

You don't have to take the t-case out to install the SYE. You do have to open it up, but it wasn't that bad. Although, my buddy who helped me with the install is only 5'4", so even with the rear end only up on jack stands, he was able to sit upright with his head in the driveshaft channel to work on it.

If I hadn't found one cheap, I would have went with the other. But I would have taken it out, since I don't have a car lift and to tall to sit under my jeep.

xj_toker said:

what are the benifits and disadvantages of the HnT vs buying a sye and cv. i dont really wana getto rig my XJ. my brothers stearing me to a new sye and cv what do you guys thinkparty1:

sry i had to ad the lil guy in there it looks like hes having fun.

Click to expand...

having a jeep with the older style t-case it doesnt make much sense to use a hack and tap. i run a h&t on my 99 but it is a lot cheaper than the 95 and down. i'm into my whole setup including driveshaft for about 230. however with the older style, go full on hd sye.

Ramsey said:

having a jeep with the older style t-case it doesnt make much sense to use a hack and tap.

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can you explain what model t-case you are talking about.

96 and up TC's have a slip yoke that is external. Pre 96 extends into the TC. Pre 96 best price H&T is $169 from Jason @ Group Buy. $10 more gets you a PORC SYE shipped. BUT, you do have to tear apart the TC

POST 96 H&T is basically just a flange. ($85)

We're talking 231's here.

Rocketman said:

96 and up TC's have a slip yoke that is external. Pre 96 extends into the TC. Pre 96 best price H&T is $169 from Jason @ Group Buy. $10 more gets you a PORC SYE shipped. BUT, you do have to tear apart the TC

POST 96 H&T is basically just a flange. ($85)

We're talking 231's here.

Click to expand...

Well, post '95 is a flange - but you'll also need a spicer flange that facilitates bolting your DS to the RE flange - they run about $60 at Napa. I just did my '96 H&T last week for about $160 total ($85 RE flange, $60 Spicer flange, and $13 for a front DS at the local Pull N' Save) it's working great.

what about the 242?

g0dz1ll4 said:

Well, post '95 is a flange - but you'll also need a spicer flange that facilitates bolting your DS to the RE flange - they run about $60 at Napa. I just did my '96 H&T last week for about $160 total ($85 RE flange, $60 Spicer flange, and $13 for a front DS at the local Pull N' Save) it's working great.

Click to expand...

This is in addition to the SYE, or in place of?

xj_toker said:

K, im a newbie can you go a lil more indepth so i understand why im doing what.

Click to expand...

ok -

the hack and tap requires that you use the factory "weak" mainshaft with a new tailcone housing. You physicaly "hack and tap" the old mainshaft...
here is a pic that compares:
AA SYE 32 spline mainshaft
96+ Factory mainshaft
95- Factory mainshaft

look specificaly at the yoke mounting area and the shaft thickness...

http://www.opiebennett.com/images/Jeep/D4-ford9-swap/Day%2015/IMG_3974.JPG

The HD SYE (which for a 95 and older XJ is only $60 more than a Hack and Tap) comes with a much beefier, 32 spline mainshaft, a CV yoke, no cuts to make, just take it apart, put it together...

I have taken 3 231's apart, and i thought it was easier to do in the jeep...

the 231 is a simple stupid case - any idiot with a torque wrench and 3-4 hours on his hands (max) can install a new mainshaft...

Rocketman - with all respect - i think it is a much better idea to take the case apart and swap a mainshaft and a tailcone then awkwarldy cut a piece off your mainshaft under the jeep... if you arent perfect with your drill bit, the hole wont be straight, and if you arent perfect with the grinder / sawzall - the cut wont be straight... and even if you get all that perfect - you went to all that effort for a weaker shaft and to save $60...

do it right the first time -

there is a time as your jeep gets more and more modified, that $$$ becomes less importiant, and getting good reilaible parts matters a lot more...

good reading about your Np231 -
http://www.4xshaft.com/NP231SHORTSHAFTFIXEDYOKEKITv2.pdf <-- AA SYE install instructions

My write up on taking a blown up t-case and a good t-case and making them fit together -
http://www.opiebennett.com/images/Jeep/D4-ford9-swap/Day%2015/np231.htm

Currie Replacement shaft instructions -
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

here is where to get your uber cheap 32 spline mainshaft -
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=82&osCsid=8dc4925fb9e0ca810155e2037e1a7bfd

here is the hack and tap - for the same price as the HD SYE -
http://www.4x4rockshop.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=9171

assgas:assgas:assgas:assgas::gonnablow :gonnablow :gonnablow :gonnablow :gonnablow

the SYE from PORC is $180 shipped. I got a rebuilt, lengthened, balanced rear Driveshaft with greaseable joints for $150 shipped. Not too bad, and installing it isnt bad either. I did it with a friend, jeep sitting on the ground, took a couple of hours. Just get a good set of lock ring pliers or snap ring pliers ($10) and a breaker bar. Really not as hard as it seems. I found instructions online, and use those instead of the ones that came with the SYE.

I agree 100% REAL SYE is better... not talking about better, talking cheaper and easier...
No arguments from me. I'd always suggest the right way a real SYE.

Remember, I just hijacked the thread to try and find a used RE1801... and then ended up esplainin what an "H&T" was...

I'm using a H&T and driveshaft from High Angle Driveline. They've been on there for a good two years and I have no complaints so far.. I don't wheel it every weekend so I think I'm good for now. Dirk at DGP Offroad says he has guys running the H&T,and they have 35 and run them hard with no problems..

Later,
Frank

3 years on my hack and tap now (newer TC model) no vibes or complaints. also using a junk RE/spicer CVF with no complaints. 4.88's and i do about 80mph with no problems.

i went with the simple one bc i planned on going atlas anyways. which i still am once the $DOE$ is straight. the HD SYE is obviously better...

Well, a slip yoke eliminator is just that- it converts the slip yoke set-up to a fixed flange or yoke. The RE H&T is a "REAL" SYE.

I would agree that the price difference isn't worth messing with on a '95 or older model. On a '96 or newer, it is cheaper and I find that a lot of guys like the easier install. I'm not saying that a replacement SYE is all that complicated either, but the H&T is without a doubt the easier and quicker install.

Cutting the shaft and tapping the hole requires some basic knowledge of tools and a trick or 2 up yer sleeve. If the output shaft is cut while it's spinning, you'd have to be a goob to mess it up... Drilling the hole is not exactly rocket science either.

Our '97 has been running the same H&T for the last 5 years or so. It's had 33-35" tires, playing in rocks- locked up- no problems. I had to rebuild a DC driveshaft that wore out after a few years, but that H&T is still going strong.
I'd post a pic or 2 of our junk in action, but for some reason, I'm not allowed...

I had a hack and tap from RE giving to me. I wasnt so sure about them but I used it anyway. I went about it my way by buying a shaft at the junk yard for nine bucks and a machine shop cut it and drilled the hole .I threaded it , installed it . and have never had a problem

i just dropped my transfer case and put it on the table to install my advanced adapters sye.if all goes well ill be installing my full traction 6 in lift also...