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winch question

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
Is it possible to damage a winch by forgetting to switch from free spool to power in/out before winching?

I freespooled the cable I needed,hooked up to the tree,and powered in while the drum was disengaged for a few seconds untill I realized what was wrong.I did this over the weekend and I could swear my winch sounds different....

Also,any tips on getting the cable on the drum as tightly and closely as possible?My manual says to pull a load of at least 500lbs to streatch the cable before use,which I already have done,but when I try to pack the cable on the drum tightly it wants to unravel.It took me a half hour to get all 100feet on the drum today so there has got to be a trick I'm missing here....

T.I.A...
 
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Shouldn't do any damage. Same as coasting your car with the clutch in. I've done this a few times over the years with no ill effects.

Toss the steel rope and get synthetic. Ever notice how you are always the only person standing in the arc of your cable... Try hooking up your winch to a buddy's car and spool the cable while you wind him in. Helps if he keeps light pressure on the brakes and WEAR GLOVES!

Andre

P.S. Speak to Scott at www.rockstomper.com. Excellent service and prices on Amsteel winch ropes.
 
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I've done the same thing also. No problem. I need to learn how to get the cable on the drum tight too.
 
Find a handy tree or other anchor point that has a slight incline, hook your tree strap up and hook the winch to that then pull your xj up. Wearing gloves is correct but even futher don't be tempted to 'guide' the spooling even with gloved hands, all the gloves will do if you get a steel sliver in your hand is make it harder to get the gloves off. I use the handle end of a pair of pliers to act as a guide.

The synthetic rope is nice but remember to also replace the roller guide with a rope guide if you switch over... I'd run the wire rope till you wear it out then switch OR sell the rope that I'm assuming is new and use the money from that for the new synthetic rope...
 
ECKSJAY said:
Maybe on YOUR drums...I sure wouldn't want to wear mine down like that.

please tell me you're kidding. the winch pulls so slow, and you are doing it for such a short time period that it won't even get a chance to do anything to your brakes. you can do a couple brakestands without majorly affecting your brakes, and you actually think a winch pulling at 1mph will burn your brake??? that's hillarious
 
scorpio_vette said:
please tell me you're kidding. the winch pulls so slow, and you are doing it for such a short time period that it won't even get a chance to do anything to your brakes. you can do a couple brakestands without majorly affecting your brakes, and you actually think a winch pulling at 1mph will burn your brake??? that's hillarious

When you do brakestands are you applying your cabled e-brake or your hydraulic brake system? Think about that one for a minute before answering. ;)
 
ECKSJAY said:
When you do brakestands are you applying your cabled e-brake or your hydraulic brake system? Think about that one for a minute before answering. ;)

It's too early, go away!

On a serious note though, I have my 16 year old in the drivers seat He varies the brake drag or pauses at a complete stop while I fiddle with the cable layers. Too much drag though and you can pull the MJ nearly into the cul-de-sac with out realizing it.
 
I like to find a tree on an incline and then pop the aw4 into reverse while i spool in my line. Works great and gets it good and tight!
 
Does it actually matter if your winch cable is not wound tight?

Mine is all over the place on the winch but works great.

Also why spend so much time wrapping the cable up perfectly when you're just going to use it again next time you go wheeling?
 
90Pioneer said:
Does it actually matter if your winch cable is not wound tight?

Mine is all over the place on the winch but works great.

Also why spend so much time wrapping the cable up perfectly when you're just going to use it again next time you go wheeling?

that's how you get cable jams and kink the cable and eventually ruin the cable. a properly wound cable will last much longer and be safer
 
I always rewrap mine after I use it. I dont worry with the 500lbs thing though. I just use my body weight, hold the controller in one hand and feed cable through the other keeping constant pressure (maybe only 50lbs or so) on it. It gets it nice and tight and straight on the spool. Maybe only takes me ten minuted to do 100ft.
 
ECKSJAY said:
When you do brakestands are you applying your cabled e-brake or your hydraulic brake system? Think about that one for a minute before answering. ;)


i don't see why that matters. the only difference is how you apply the brakes. but it still uses the same drums, shoes and springs. regardless, applying light pressure with the e-brake to tighten up the winch cable WILL NOT damage your brakes.

Does it actually matter if your winch cable is not wound tight?

yes. if the cable is loose on the drum, and you go to use it, the cable that is now under load will be tight and pull itself down in between the loose cable. and like IntrepidXJ said, that's when your cable get's ruined.
 
Ray H said:
I always rewrap mine after I use it. I dont worry with the 500lbs thing though. I just use my body weight, hold the controller in one hand and feed cable through the other keeping constant pressure (maybe only 50lbs or so) on it. It gets it nice and tight and straight on the spool. Maybe only takes me ten minuted to do 100ft.

X2 - Once it is stretched, the only things you have to worry about are kinks and layers getting sucked down betwen other layers. I try to spool it up as neat as possible each pull, but in reality, as long as it doesn't bunch up to one side, It'll be all right until I get home to clean it up.
 
yea,I have already kinked a few sections of my cable due to the wraps not being tight.After it happened I started to think about going to synthetic line but I guess I'll make due with what I have for now.

I don't understand what you guys are saying about spooling in while the e-brake is on...are you saying that you hook up to something pull the brake and then spool in?How do you get the cable spooled in even layers while its under tension?

While we are on the subject,does anyone have any pics of how their controll box is mounted(non-integrated box)I had mine mounted right above the drum but the cable rubbed against the bottom of the box so I need to mount it in a different location.I've seen pics of boxes mounted to the left side of the winch but that is where the power cables are attached and the box would sit on top of the cables???
 
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you only need a light load on the brakes, not a full lockup. the load is usually only required for the initial "break-in" of the cable. after that, you don't need that much load on it as long as you keep the tension even.

i just like to do the e-brake method once in a while to roll up my cable nice and clean and tight again.
 
Ray H said:
... hold the controller in one hand and feed cable through the other keeping constant pressure (maybe only 50lbs or so) on it. It gets it nice and tight and straight on the spool. Maybe only takes me ten minuted to do 100ft.

All I can say is I hope you wear real thick gloves. RichP is right - Use something other than your hands to guide the cable.

I disagree on the absolute need to replace roller fairleads with a alloy hawse when using synthetic rope. If you have the coin do it but unless your rollers are badly burred I don't see a good reason, except maybe clearance. It is practically impossible to get a (tensioned) rope stuck between rollers.

Andre
 
Been doing it for years by hand with gloves and no problems. It's not like the cable is made from razor blades. "Holy Cow if I touch that cable I'll get hurt". If you are on the trail, you only have 2 choices after a winch pull ... spool in the cable loosely without using your hands and get a birds nest... or use your hands.
 
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