• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Jeep getting stuck in 4wd...??

TortureTested

NAXJA Forum User
Location
In my XJ
I have a 95 XJ with a problem with the t-case. I was wondering if some of you guys can throw some advice to me to what would cause the 242 case to get stuck in 4-part time or full time and i gotta beat the hell out of her to get back to 2wd. All of my fluids, filters, and seals have been re-done and cherried up and it still gets stuck!
Anyone have anything to offer???
 
Could be problems with the linkages. Ive also seen several dollars worth of change under the shifter, causing it to be very difficult to get into 4x4, just some things to check.
 
TortureTested said:
I have a 95 XJ with a problem with the t-case. I was wondering if some of you guys can throw some advice to me to what would cause the 242 case to get stuck in 4-part time or full time and i gotta beat the hell out of her to get back to 2wd. All of my fluids, filters, and seals have been re-done and cherried up and it still gets stuck!
Anyone have anything to offer???
Never drive in part time on a hard surface and be sure all 4 tires are the same size and by that I also mean equal wear.
 
Have you tried stopping and putting it into reverse and backing a few? Many times this will dislodge sticking linkage.

Kent :)
 
Ive tried all of that. The last time i got it to disengage it was from jumping on the highway and hitting 70 MPH, then it disengaged. I checked the liknkage and it seems free and clear and it shifts smooth. Revered for ever and it does nothing. Circled around parkinglots (smooth surface) and did nothing. Do you guys think i need a new t-case?? :repair:
 
Is it the shift lever not moving or is the axle not unlocking? I had a YJ with a problem with the vaccum disconnect...
 
My 96 part-time-only is the same. It goes into 4hi with no trouble at all but I sometimes have a very hard time getting it out. Its not wheel binding, it will do it after driving 6 feet straght on dirt..
 
my 242 has gotten kind tricky too. I 've found the best thing to do is pull the lever up and down several times and leave it in 2wd before I park it for the night, the next morning 4wd is always disengaged. Hope it helps.
 
haha i read the title to this thread and thought only hummers did that LOL:confused1
 
I've heard that alot of jeeps do this, mine does also.

I can usually get it out by tapping the gas a few times. (sometimes tap means almost floor it and quick let off.) hope that helps...
 
Well of what ive read the only thing that makes sense is the dam light that tells me if its in part-time, full-time or just off blinksa and acts confused. Only thing is i dont go by the light, its real easy to feel if its in 4 or 2 by the engine, tranny or just simply trying to turn it. The lever stays where i put it and the linkage always moves with it cause i had someone in the cab as i watched it shift.
Im not sure but it sucks cause it goes into 4wd easily and i wanna go for a run soon but im not gettin stuck in 4 and having to drive home hours in 4wd! :shiver: :repair:
 
If it seems to shift ok but the light is staying on maybe there is an issure with the axle disconnect. Mine physically jams up so I cant budge the transfer case lever.
 
did the 95 have the vacuum disconnect axle?
 
Ok, down to vaccum disconnection. All i really know is that both my front D35 and rear chrys 8.25 have the vaccum lines run up pretty high into the cab.(water crossings). I dont have any personal knowlege of how the vaccum system works so maybe thats where the problem is. Anyone kind enough to briefly explain?? :read:
 
Probably sounds stupid but make sure all your tires are at equal pressure... i also have this problem and if i get em all filled the same it pops right out for me...
 
TortureTested said:
Ok, down to vaccum disconnection. All i really know is that both my front D35 and rear chrys 8.25 have the vaccum lines run up pretty high into the cab.(water crossings). I dont have any personal knowlege of how the vaccum system works so maybe thats where the problem is. Anyone kind enough to briefly explain?? :read:
Those aren't vac lines, they're the vents for the axles. As you drive the axles heat up, without the vents they would build pressure and pop seals.
The Central Axle Disconect(CAD) system in the earlier XJ's and MJs was a vacuum motor that actuated a fork in the passener side of the axle. The fork would push a collar, locking the inner shaft and outer shaft together, engaging the passenger side hub to the differential.
Jeeps with the Full-Time 242 T-case never had it, and it was only on the early 231 models. Newer models, I think 95+, have a solid axle shaft and the d-shaft is engaed all the time, it spins even when you're not in 4WD.
The easiest way to determine if you've got a CAD axle is to look. You'll see a big black thing on the passenger side of the axle, it will have vacuum lines going to it that are controlled from the t-case. usually when they fail they just ned cleaned, and you can "trail fix" them by taking off the vac motor and flipping the fork around to engage the collar, then putting the motor back on.
 
87manche said:
Those aren't vac lines, they're the vents for the axles. As you drive the axles heat up, without the vents they would build pressure and pop seals.
The Central Axle Disconect(CAD) system in the earlier XJ's and MJs was a vacuum motor that actuated a fork in the passener side of the axle. The fork would push a collar, locking the inner shaft and outer shaft together, engaging the passenger side hub to the differential.
Jeeps with the Full-Time 242 T-case never had it, and it was only on the early 231 models. Newer models, I think 95+, have a solid axle shaft and the d-shaft is engaed all the time, it spins even when you're not in 4WD.
The easiest way to determine if you've got a CAD axle is to look. You'll see a big black thing on the passenger side of the axle, it will have vacuum lines going to it that are controlled from the t-case. usually when they fail they just ned cleaned, and you can "trail fix" them by taking off the vac motor and flipping the fork around to engage the collar, then putting the motor back on.

Well mines a 1995 with a 242 case. I will check tomorrow about the pass side vaccs (big black things).
Thanks for everyones responses so far. WELL APPRECIATED:exclamati
 
Sounds like the shift fork inside t-case may be hanging up. Don't know your mechanical skills but I would pull the back half of the t-case off and look for binding where that shift fork and rod ride.(after you've checked all external possibilities) Not sure on the 242 but my 231 did the same thing your describing after a sye install and it was the shift fork rod hanging up on the new rear section that comes with the sye. Hope this helps.
 
O.D. said:
Sounds like the shift fork inside t-case may be hanging up. Don't know your mechanical skills but I would pull the back half of the t-case off and look for binding where that shift fork and rod ride.(after you've checked all external possibilities) Not sure on the 242 but my 231 did the same thing your describing after a sye install and it was the shift fork rod hanging up on the new rear section that comes with the sye. Hope this helps.

So i could fix this with a new t-caes? Any reconandationes, Looking for a beefier t-case? A good 4 to 1 ratio. Will this affect my highway driving at all??
Geez u guys are helpful:exclamati :exclamati :exclamati :exclamati
 
Back
Top