Wanna save me an SYE induced stroke?

Alright, I've collected all of the s#!+ necessary to do an RE/ front DS SYE. I decided that I was going to do the job this morning and, having read multiple write ups, I figured it was well within my ability.

So I go out into the garage and drop my rear DS (5 minutes) - now I'm ready to cut the tailshaft - right? Wrong. I can't get my sawzall, hacksaw or anything else to make a dent in the shaft - it's too hard. So I go get 1 carbide blade for the hacksaw, 3 regular metal blades for the same and 5 Milwaukee "torch" ( the metal version of their "Axe" blade ) for good measure. Upon returning home I find that the carbide hacksaw blade will cut the shaft although it's slow going even with the engine running and the tranny in reverse, spinning the tailshaft. So during one of my many breaks to let things cool, I decide I should see how the supplied drill bit holds up to drilling out the center of the shaft. It doesn't do s*^%! - doesn't even score the shaft.

Now I know some of you are going to be thinking that I do not know what the hell I am doing, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I'm seeing no f#$%ing way that this is going to work - and I'm already about 3mm into my tailshaft.

Somebody please enlighten me - how on earth can I hope to drill and tap my tailshaft? I've considered shipping the f@#$ing thing back to RE and going with a Porc style - but I REALLY don't want to go this route given that I'm knee deep in things right now.

Any insight would be VERY much appreciated.

g0dz1ll4 said:

I've considered shipping the f@#$ing thing back to RE and going with a Porc style - but I REALLY don't want to go this route given that I'm knee deep in things right now.

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That'd probably be your best bet, especially since anything you've scored already would be replaced with a real SYE kit...and you're likely going to have to open the case now anyway.

Just seems like a lot of work to me in order to save a little bit of $$ on the stronger style of SYE. IMHO, of course.

4" grinder w/metal cut off wheels for the output shaft. Cutting fluid for drilling and tapping.

yea cutting wheels are the way to go. also with the drill you need to start small and work you way up to the desired size.

The shaft is usually case-hardened, as I recall. A saw blade won't do squat (as you already noticed,) but an angle grinder should prove useful.

Once you get through the case, you should have a much easier time - that shaft is too thick to have been through-hardened in a cost-effective manner. I haven't done a postmortem on one yet, but I'd imagine the "case" being about .020" thick or so.

Try going around the shaft at the cut point with some sort of abrasive, rather than a metal blade, and then cutting it. Once you cut the end of the shaft off, the supplied drill bit should work - since you'll have gotten the case out of the way.

5-90

5-90 said:

The shaft is usually case-hardened, as I recall. A saw blade won't do squat (as you already noticed,) but an angle grinder should prove useful.

Once you get through the case, you should have a much easier time - that shaft is too thick to have been through-hardened in a cost-effective manner. I haven't done a postmortem on one yet, but I'd imagine the "case" being about .020" thick or so.

Try going around the shaft at the cut point with some sort of abrasive, rather than a metal blade, and then cutting it. Once you cut the end of the shaft off, the supplied drill bit should work - since you'll have gotten the case out of the way.

5-90

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Ditto Jon, lose the Sawzall and get an abrasive cutting blade on there. It'll eat that shaft for lunch.

rilling and tapping the center of the shaft is easy, it's not much harder than mild steel.

I used a metal cutting blade on a small frame skillsaw. Start the engine, put the tranny in reverse, and the tail shaft will spin in the correct direction relative to your blade while you cut....sorta like a lathe.

Took me less than a minute to make the cut....

Ivan said:

I used a metal cutting blade on a small frame skillsaw. Start the engine, put the tranny in reverse, and the tail shaft will spin in the correct direction relative to your blade while you cut....sorta like a lathe.

Took me less than a minute to make the cut....

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ditto. let the engine do the work for you.

Drill and tap will be easy as you will have removed the hardened end you were trying to drill into just now as mentioned. Ditto too on using a angle grinder with a cut off wheel.

It seems the tech has been covered, I just wanted to ad that your thread title cracks me up every time I see it because I can relate!

Insure that the cut is flat, somewhat smooth, and a true right angle to the center line of the shaft. The tape hole needs run true with the center line of the shaft also.
I have only work on 3 failed HnT. But all 3 showed very poor workmanship. I believe that poor work played a big part in there failure.
If this isn't a new kit get a new grade 8 bolt AND grade 8 washer for the center tape as well a some LT. red.

Drilling, Dont just jump and use the one they sent you, get a small drill bit and work your way up in sizes to the bit supplied, or you'll be there all dam day dulling bits

If you wish to cut faster (although, I will mention, not so much safer), have someone get inside the jeep and rev the motor up to like 1300 rpm or so. It'll help much. I find that cutting metal while spinning faster takes less pressure than at lower speeds. Be carefull though, that shaft may just come flying when you cut through it all the way.

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/tech/rubiconsye.htm

DPG has the best writeup for Hack 'N' Tap that I have read.

I just FINALLY did my SYE last weekend, it took all of 3 lazt hours and it turned out great.

53guy said:

If you wish to cut faster (although, I will mention, not so much safer), have someone get inside the jeep and rev the motor up to like 1300 rpm or so. It'll help much. I find that cutting metal while spinning faster takes less pressure than at lower speeds. Be carefull though, that shaft may just come flying when you cut through it all the way.

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good idea... but...

I am not sure I would allow you to say that without me saying that if you do that and the saw binds up you may loose your saw, jeep floor, and arm, if you are lucky enough to not have your balls within flying distance of the debris...

slow speed is safe speed..

also, when you dril. I assume you know this... but here it is anyway...
use a pilot hole and dril at slow speeds with plenty of lube.
high speed drilling will dull your bit before it gets very far.
to dril a pilot use a bit 1/4 the size of the one supplied.
then use one 1/2 the size
then use the one supplied with the tap.
Ps make sure it's centered... but you know that much i am sure.
Good luck and if you want to avoid the stoke, drink some beer and watch baywatch for a while...:cheers:

So at 4-4.5 inches of lift in the rear with a 1" TC drop kit installed could I leave the SY in as long as there is no vibration issues? I have a 94 with the 231TC and feel kinda ripped off by haveing to pay 200 bucks for two pieces of metal, because RE is the only ones that make a H&T. I wonder if leaving the SY in and drilling a hole through it and the end of the shaft and then a a bolt to hold it to stop the yoke from sliding in and out would work. Since the houseing would still be in place it would help with any strain on the output shaft, and I could get a drive shaft to fit in there real easy as there are a few that are shorter than I need. Sounds like a very bad idea, but it might work, if done right, and I think I might be the idiot to try it just to offer those who want to go higher other options than a TC replacement or 200 bucks for a couple peices of aluminum.

You own a Jeep, be prepared to feel ripped off quite frequently

CRASH said:

You own a Jeep, be prepared to feel ripped off quite frequently

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Accually things I have looked at are very resonable. I wouldn't mind spending 340 for some RE 4.5 inch leafs with bushings. I don't mind 120 for coils. I have really good shock that'll handle my current 3" lift and upto 4.5 inches and paid 150 for all 4 and a steering stab. But a 6 inch round piece of metal costing 190 bucks is asking way to much. He77 the slip youke housing and rear seal was only 47 bucks AT A DEALER, and there is way more aluminum in that than the RE's plate. I might fab one and use a new 14 dollar rear seal from the dealer to create it. plus if I use the front shaft from another XJ then the Spicer part that comes with the kit is useless, as the front shaft uses some other spicer part, that they sell seperatly, what a rip. Ok I'll stop, just small stuff like that kills me.

reddragon72 said:

So at 4-4.5 inches of lift in the rear with a 1" TC drop kit installed could I leave the SY in as long as there is no vibration issues? I have a 94 with the 231TC and feel kinda ripped off by haveing to pay 200 bucks for two pieces of metal, because RE is the only ones that make a H&T. I wonder if leaving the SY in and drilling a hole through it and the end of the shaft and then a a bolt to hold it to stop the yoke from sliding in and out would work. Since the houseing would still be in place it would help with any strain on the output shaft, and I could get a drive shaft to fit in there real easy as there are a few that are shorter than I need. Sounds like a very bad idea, but it might work, if done right, and I think I might be the idiot to try it just to offer those who want to go higher other options than a TC replacement or 200 bucks for a couple peices of aluminum.

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The stock slip yoke end is nothing but an oil seal that is just pressed in there. I dont think it is very thick enough that you would want to bolt it up and hope it holds. With any amount of vibration, I'd be afraid of it breaking away and having the yoke slip away. And I think the yokes are cast so welding would be difficult or impossible with out messing it up.

Maybe the front yoke of a NP231 would work on the rear? That way you could hack-tap the rear shaft and slap that style of yoke on there. I am not sure though if it works. I agree though on cost issues but then there are profits to be made, materials to be bought, employees and benifits to be paid, it isn't a cheap world out there.