Heater hose removal

There's a metal heater hose connected to the water pump. The bolt holding it on is the same size bolt that also holds the metal tranny cooling lines into the radiator. Does anyone know what size this is? I think it's a flare nut. I bought 15mm and 17mm wrenches, but they don't fit over the line. I think it's 19mm but can't be sure. Anyone?

If it's the one I'm thinking of (goes via the small hose to the heater core,) it's a 3/8" pipe thread. You should be able to take the thing off with a vice grip, pipe wrench, or a crescent wrench (sorry, but I don't recall the size offhand - somewhere around 7/8", I think) and get a replacement at the hardware store. Use brass.

An "internal" pipe nipple wrench should also work, if you happen to have one. It's a hex shank with a knurled "cam" on it that will grip the inside of the nipple for removal.

Considering it's steel and probably several years old, it should be replaced anyhow.

5-90

That metal line has a bolt that does not spin. The whole hose has to spin on and off. The hose should go back to a heater valve thingy (3-4 way plastic piece with a vacuum line attached). Unattach the hose at the heater valve and remove the w.p and metal line as a unit.

I installed this metal line on my workbench with a vise. I put the w.p. in the vice and turned the metal line with an adjustable wrench. Be sure to align the pipe in the same angle as it is in now. I had to go around one more turn which made this line cinch down very tight.

alpinetiburon04 said:

There's a metal heater hose connected to the water pump. The bolt holding it on is the same size bolt that also holds the metal tranny cooling lines into the radiator. Does anyone know what size this is? I think it's a flare nut. I bought 15mm and 17mm wrenches, but they don't fit over the line. I think it's 19mm but can't be sure. Anyone?

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That whole line turns, not just the nut. Disconnect the rubber hose, and remove that pipe on a workbench after the pump is out of the vehicle...that's the only way to do it. An adjustable wrench or vise grips will work, but IIRC that hex is a 13/16", someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Clean up the threads with a wire wheel, then apply a dollop of RTV to the threads just to ensure a good seal, and install it on the new pump. Make sure it's oriented the same way as it was on the old pump. Then install the assembly back onto the engine.

If you can slip a box end wrench over the tube that would be even better.