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ECT sensor ohm readings???

fordtech

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Amherst NY
anyone know what the resistance values are for the ECT sensor in obdII 4.0L's?? I just need a 210 degree value and maybe a 40 degree value....

Im trying to diagnose some pretty crappy gas mileage.... got new 02, tuneup, cat and exhaust, also decarboned, reset pcm, and cleaned t-body. I cant blame the 31's and other mods for all the MPG lose...
 
fordtech said:
anyone know what the resistance values are for the ECT sensor in obdII 4.0L's?? I just need a 210 degree value and maybe a 40 degree value....

Im trying to diagnose some pretty crappy gas mileage.... got new 02, tuneup, cat and exhaust, also decarboned, reset pcm, and cleaned t-body. I cant blame the 31's and other mods for all the MPG lose...
ECT? CTSor ATS

tempohms.jpg
 
I think OBDII will throw a code for a bad Temp sensor.
Once the engine is completely cool check the Air temp sensor reading against the Coolant temp sensor reading.
 
Last edited:
langer1 said:
I think OBDII will throw a code for a bad Temp sensor.

if its bad, but if its inaccurate it just thinks its cold out when its warm or that the engine isnt reaching operating temp....

Ill have to double check but I was getting 32k ohm at 40, and like 7.5k ohm at 210 if I remember correctly. So its reading colder than actual temp but still in spec, so no codes. This is based on if your chart is right for OBDII.
 
Something to keep in mind and many people seem to forget (or choose to ignore). Is say your MAT resistance checks out to within spec., but what is the value at the ECU or PCM plug. When all else fails, you got to get serious about the whole thing and check the resisitance at the ECU plug and clean the contacts at the ECU plug and make sure they aren't loose or backing out of the holder. If the sensor checks out all the way back to the ECU (PCM), you can be fairly confident it's OK.
I've found enough discolored, full of moisture, loose, bent, oil covered, fatigued and broken wires and other various wire and connector calamidies to make me suspisious of all of them.
Checking the sensors is a quick check, checking them all the way back to the engine controller is a thorough check. Be carefull to not cause more damage than you uncover and fix. Speed isn't your friend and force is your enemy.
I got bit in the rear by that not to long ago. I checked my engine temp. sensor and it tested OK, the same as the MAT. One last check and a connector cleaning and things changed noticably. I sure wish I would have cleaned the Engine temp. sensor connector first.
I was noticing the other day, my motor was running a little rough and probably needed a tune up. I hit a pot hole at around 30 MPH and the motor suddenly started running really good. Instant tune up, a contact or ground somewhere, is making better contact now than it did. I've really been contimplating cutting out every connector and ground in the motor, soldering and bypassing all the connectors. And only testing at the ECU.
 
vac looks good... I'll check the MAP running tonight. Figured the reference voltage was 5v, thats standard....

The wireing and connectors look good, but I may take a deeper look.

Fuel pressure was good last I checked.... I'll recheck it again to make sure...

Thing is, it runs wonderfully, smooth, and plenty of power (at least in my opinion). Its just got me stumped... I checked the usual stuff, and havent seen any sign of running rich. without access to a scan tool (dont work as a auto tech anymore) I cant really look at sensors, fuel mapping, and general driveability stuff.

One thing I really do need to get to is checking the header.... it doesnt sound cracked, but at this point, who knows.
 
be sure to fill us in when you find the solution.
I have soot all over my rear axle and I get 11.5-12.5mpg ...I would consider those signs of running rich. Other than that it runs excellent. In general all I have to do is bump the key and it roars to life, I was having a cold start problem, turns out I had put bosch +4's in and forgotten about it.

I pulled the JET performance chip, and have noticed no difference in mileage. I'm going to check the sensors this weekend. I'll post up any odd results.
 
The extra fuels got to be going somewhere unless it's just the spring fuel change over. There is an additive that had to be removed by the end of March. Try going up a tick on your fuel grade.
I have not had time to do the math but my old 87 get about 3 mpg better with Mid grade fuel so when the price is close I use the better stuff.
 
goodburbon said:
I dont think they add anything to the fuel in south La. I'll research it a bit to be sure.
They have to remove all the sulfur by the end of the month to restore the octain lost they add MTBE = less pollution and poorer gas mileage.
 
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