Replacing my floor pans... a few questions

Just so everyone knows I have searched and read every thread in that regards to floor pans. I have a few personalized questions before I go ahead and do this. I am driving tomorrow to pick up the sherman floor pans http://www.shermanparts.com/page.php?c=shop&p=new_products&id=14 from the manufacturer in Detroit. I will be having these welded in either by a body shop or a guy I know that lives by me that is experienced in metalworking. My goal for this repair is to end up with a floor pan that will never rust again. I am planning on applying Por-15 to the underside of the new floor pans and also on the top. I will be getting the top sprayed with Line-X also. My question about the Por-15 is whether or not it can be applied to bare metal. I read through all of the FAQs on their site and it doesnt ever talk about bare metal... only rusted stuff. Also, is there any other product on the market that would be better than Por-15 for the underside of my Jeep? I was planning on spraying some rattle can undercoating on top of the Por-15 as another precautionary measure. Is Por-15 really needed on the inside or will it be fine if I just have the line-X sprayed? Also, has anyone had their floor sprayed and how did it turn out? Did everything fit back in alright such as the plastic interior pieces, center console, seats, etc? Anyone have any pics? Also if anyone has had floor pans welded in what was the price for the labor of gutting the interior, cutting all of the floor pans out, and welding the new pans in? I plan on doing this regardless of the cost but would like to have a little heads up before I head to some body shops tomorrow for quotes. And for my last and final question (sorry for the long winded post) is there anything else I should do while this is being done that will ensure that I am happy with my results for years to come? Thanks for the help guys. I will try and take some pictures while this is all being done and I will post them up.

I personally do not like por15. I recently replaced my floor and rust came right through the por in spots and in other areas it flaked off. Still other areas are just fine. You need to spend alot of time in prep. The metal must be very clean. You can put it on bare metal but it must first be cleaned, then the "metal ready" must be used on it which etches the metal and allows the por to bond to it. It think the whole system is a pain in the ass and not worth the money.
I am going to make a guess and say that it is going to be very expensive to have this job done. Are you have the whole thing done or just spots?
I would recommend putting paint done before the line-x.
If I were you I would paint the entire floor inside and out with a good quality car paint and then have the whole floor line-x in and out.

Good luck
K

I'd recommend Eastwood Rust Encapsulator over POR-15. There's a comparison here, and the Eastwood stuff is cheaper, more effective, and requires less prep work. That's what I'm going to use on my floor this summer.

Well I just called the guy I know and it turns out he knows how to spray bedliner and has all the materials needed to do it too. He quoted me $1000. I am supplying the floor pans. That 1000 is covering welding in those floor pans, prepping the metal, and bedlining the floor and underside with a nice thick coat. Not too bad. So total I will have about $1500 into parts and materials. So from what I am reading on your post I will not need to Por-15 the metal beneath the bedliner correct? Is there anything else I need to apply under the bedliner to help prevent rust or will the bedliner do a good enough job on its own? I am probably going to be pulling it into his shop next monday. I will be sure and take pictures of the whole process and post them up here on the forum. He told me it will probably take him about three weeks to do the whole thing. This is with him working on his nights. He has extensive experience replacing floor pans. He mostly works on old camaros and firebirds, which are also unibody vehicles.

WOW - i just posted a similar thread - i'm thinking about tackling rust as well, looks like you are going about it to really beat that cancer once and for all.

I would love it if you kept us posted with pictures throughout the process!!

there is no cure for rust face it. all the rust blockers like por15 are a joke they work in lab tests but never succed in the real world the rust will come back. the only solution is to remove the rust and get to good material. then paint it with a good industrial epoxy paint.

What would be a good industrial epoxy paint? How expensive is it? Can I use it and spray bedlinter on top of it? If I can do that I will be getting some for sure. I read a few more things from people that weren't completely satisfied with their por-15 after searching on the site a little more. I have also heard more than one person say to use industrial epoxy as it is used on large oceanliners that stay in saltwater their whole lives.

katarn444 said:

I personally do not like por15. I recently replaced my floor and rust came right through the por in spots and in other areas it flaked off. Still other areas are just fine. You need to spend alot of time in prep. The metal must be very clean. You can put it on bare metal but it must first be cleaned, then the "metal ready" must be used on it which etches the metal and allows the por to bond to it. It think the whole system is a pain in the ass and not worth the money.
I am going to make a guess and say that it is going to be very expensive to have this job done. Are you have the whole thing done or just spots?
I would recommend putting paint done before the line-x.
If I were you I would paint the entire floor inside and out with a good quality car paint and then have the whole floor line-x in and out.

Good luck
K

Click to expand...

The same thing happened to me when I used por-15.I prepped the hell out of the metal and followed the directions to the "t" I wouldn't use it again.

Sure glad I read this thread. I was just about ready to go buy a gallon of POR! Not anymore!

Thanks,
Ken

Anybody know any good epoxy paints to use and whether or not I can bedline over it? Also has anyone ever heard of some stuff called chassis saver? If so what did you think of it?

epoxy is very hard and brittle...when your xj flexes it wont give and you will have hair line cracks...a good place for moisture to get in (rust)...a flexible rubberized coating may be better (i think rust is tough to beat in a high humidity area)..........
dbswede

hey you should check out this for your floors.
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/3121_3123_3136/products_id/23946