Where to start?

Few troubles with the 97 Hot Rod, need some opinions.
THE HARD STARTING-esp when cold, takes ALOT of cranks. Not as bad if I've just driven it (5-15 minutes later) Fuel pump? Plugs? one of those lectrical thigns I will inevitably screw up?
THE TICK- Seems to rise with rpms, esp. loud at about 1900-2200 revs.
THE KNOCK- Not as bad if I use 89 octane ethanol. Worse if motor's warm.
THE HEAT-flirts w/210 on gauge. If idling more than 2 minutes, rises to neXt line. Had a bad hose, replaced, full flush. Still happens esp w/AC on.
THE 'CYCLING'- A/C comp kicks in and out every 30 seconds or so when on Defrost. I know there was articles about this last year, couldn't find.
THE GRIND- AX-15 5-speed. Only in fifth gear, a 'grinding noise.' Not as bad when I hold the shifter. Been doing this for about a year, no worse now.
THE WHINE- Nitpickety, but in AM on my Kenwood, I get one heck of weird, cycling whine ONLY AT CERTAIN FREQ ON THE DIAL.
Thanks ROCKS.
PS-what is BTT?

the SPECS

sorry-
97, 4.0, 5-speed, 90k. pretty stock, but still WAY COOL...just ask my 7-yr-old daughter.
Gmars

In my opinion and experience.....just my experience...others on here are more mechanically inclined and can help you more....this is just my experience and opinion..most of it recent

THE TICK....mine does it also but it is just the exhaust manifold gasket is blown....it blew due to a clogged cat and muffler. Does it only tick when on the gas? or at idle? I can't hear mine at idle just when the accelerator is pushed.
THE HEAT....did you replace the thermostat with the flush? I replaced mine with a 185 degree thermo and haven't had a problem since....others will recommend checking your fan clutch motor or something of the sorts
THE KNOCK....top part of motor? Or bottom? How is your oil pressure? What is your oil pressure when cold? When hot? If it is worse when it is hot you could have bearing starting to go bad.
THE WHINE....could just be engine feed back due to a improper ground
BTT...means back to the top...to refresh your memory of what the thread is about

The very first thing I would do is a complete tune up. Replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter. I would use all stock OEM parts for this with the exception of the wires, for those I would use the Mopar HP wireset, they are actually cheaper then the stockers.
Prior to that I would dump in a can of Chevron Techron, big bottle with full tank of gas. That stuff does clean well.
If you do alot of short driving, less than 30min at a time, are not really mechanically inclined, I would consider having the injectors cleaned professionally. I might also consider having the cooling system flushed and backflushed professionally. I only use Mopar coolant and mine has 180,000+ miles on it. I would also replace the thermostat with an OEM thermostat and OEM pressure cap. I would also consider having the brakes bled on a bleeding machine. After seeing it done a couple of weeks ago it's worth it, not as much fun as doing it yourself on your back in the driveway but it does a good job.
Once I was at that point I would see what I had. You might also want to consider replacing or having replaced both O2 sensors, they do go bad and as I see it local driving, low speed driving and short driving periods could lead to carbon build up on them.
As far as the tranny, drain it and fill it with the dealer supplied GL-3 lube specific for the AX-15.
The factory service manual says 'If the compressor cycles more than 5 times in one minute the R-134a is low, I think 2x's a minute is OK and would leave it alone.
If after the flush it still runs really hot see under what conditions it runs really hot, if it runs really hot in traffic and cools off once you are going that is the mechanical fan clutch, replace it. See if the electrical fan comes on with the compressor, it is supposed to run when the compressor is on. My 98 fan never shuts off when the AC or Def postion is selected.

Thanks! More deatils

Oil pressure pretty good.
Replaced the thermo and water pump in the last 30k (note to self:Use mopar stat, has the breather hole).
Thanks for the advice, the professional brake bleed was a new one, never evewn heard of this before.
Great advice gents.
G

Additionally....

Sounds like the knock since dependent on gas octane is detonation. The only thing to do is not to lug the engine as much and use at least 89 octane or better. I have found here in Utah Chevron mid grade does as well as other's top grade. And the Techron additive is the best out there and does great for keeping injectors clean. Using GM Top Engine Cleaner will do the best job of anything to remove some of the combustion chamber carbon accumulation and will help.

The tick. Lifter/valvetrain sound no doubt. Other than changing oil very regularly with a good filter, not that much can be done at this point and not necessarily a bad thing other than anoying.

The eng temp. The 185 'stat indicates a non-stocker. Do stock w/ stock temp rating. Does sound like a basically degrading cooling system- less efficient rad or/and not effective viscous coupling on mech fan. The 'stat on that fan should be making the fan turn faster when sensing add'l heat. See if is not gummed up. Flush system using at least 25% 'freeze if possible.

The cycling when on Defr is normal. My '98 does that and is supposed to. The fan is not supposed to stay on when on Defr. Only comes on with the compressor.

5th gear grinding. That is not a normal problem with the ax-15. Could be not complete clutch disengagement when going to 5th and has only started showing up at that time. If is the prob will start to do it in other gears also as time goes on. If not that, then there is a prob with the 5th synchro. Only dissasembly and replacement will repair. I use AZ GL3-5 gear lube. Is cheap and does not have the Zinc additive harmful to the synchros in the Jap made trans. I have determined there needs to be very regular replacement of the trans lube and a cleaning of the magnet. The inherent low speed 5th gear whine indicates to me not the best engineering possibly.

The whine. Normally is associated with alternator if changes with engine rpm and increases with increased loading- like lights on. Choke kits are avaliable to attach to alt output but have found only occasional help. This is why a stuck with the stocker CD radio because is great quality and very quiet. Nothing beats the stocker for quietness. Cycling whine....Do you have amp(s) on the system?? If so, could be the power supply oscillation in the amp. Not much can be done, other than a diff amp with better design/shielding. If using an inverter, will do the same.

The hard starting. Do you mean it stumbles and the such, or does nothing? If does nothing sounds like a weakening fuel pump or bad ck valve. Replacement to repair. Or if not that, a leaky injector(s) causing system pressure drop and flooded condition in cyl(s). Pull plug before starting and see if is wet. Also make sure there are stocker Champions in there.

Whew, this is enough for this one. Let me know if desire add'l clairification.

WOW Judd! Cool!

Killer reply.
I should clarify a few things: Hard start means it turns over, but no stumble or sputter. Just takes a bit for it to finally fire. only when midly cold, when engine is warm, no prob.
My fuel pump thoughts are gettign clearer now, and I forgot another symptom: When gas tank is low (under 1/4) it stumbles drmatically from a stop light or when I accelarate into a left turn.
Probably fuel pump, huh?
The whine: Kenwood CD head unit, Mopar sub in spare tire. I think that's where its coming from. Need to isolate.
The whine: seems to be shiter related, if I fiddle w/it in gear, it goes away abit. I won't worry.
The tick: Knocks bad soemtimes, even with 89 octane. I'll try the full tune up.
The heat: full flsuh has helped already, stays under 210.
The cycling: must be a Mopar thang, my kid's Neon does it even worse, prob need a recharge. Way too often, though.
Thanks again!
G

Regarding the whine from your transmission: Don't drive and apply pressure to the stick to silence the noise. You are in fact increasing wear on the syncros when you do this.

Re: WOW Judd! Cool!

gmars said:

Killer reply.
...
My fuel pump thoughts are gettign clearer now, and I forgot another symptom: When gas tank is low (under 1/4) it stumbles drmatically from a stop light or when I accelarate into a left turn.
Probably fuel pump, huh?...
G

Click to expand...

gmars, as I mentioned in another post, I've recently been inside the fuel tank on my '89 XJ. If the fuel system is similar on your model, there's a 2" fuel hose that connects from the fuel pump inlet down to a sump piece on the fuel pump assembly at the bottom. If that hose is old and damaged or came off somehow, that would explain the symptoms you have with stumbling at low tank level. Just a thought. Have fun! Rick

--
Rick & Kate Johnson
Venice Ranch, Burns, Oregon 97720
http://home.centurytel.net/venice/

Actually when any XJ's fuel tank gets down below a quarter tank sudden starts and hard turns will allow the unbaffled fuel to shift over to the sides or rear of the tank and starve the fuel pickup. I notice on one particular hill in two spots and two turns on the same hill, going either up or down. Engine starts to die for about 2 seconds and then fires back up to full power. Lets me know with my non-correctly functioning fuel gauge that I'm getting down there. When I fill up after that it usually takes 18-19 gallons.