DS hitting rocks b4 tires....

Ok so the specs. 84xj, 2.5L, ax-5, 231, ford 9", & a 31"+ drive shaft.... Ok when I'm trying to climb steep, read vertical ledges that are as wide as the xj, I have the problem of the rear ds hitting them b4 the tires. So I crease the ds and then when I hit the gas the next time it colapses.... possiable solutions I have come up with... TruHi9, not gonna happen right now too damn much money.... bigger tires, working on it, maybe 35's or 37's but am not sure how much it will help... Piviting rock sliders that go from the axle to the pseudo frame to hit the rocks b4 the ds, kinda like traction bars but not really.... basically thick ass tube that will keep the ds happy and there till I can get the $$ for the TruHi9.... Final option, thick as shit rear ds. The later two are ideas but am wondering if the are dumb ones.... any thoughts? And don't say ditch the 9" it was cheap and I just bought gears for it.... I would like to run it for a few years b4 I try to sell the third and buy the TruHi9....

I think bigger tires will help you the most to not hit. However here is a little something to protect the driveshaft pinion guard that may help some---------------- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373759

Yea I'm looking into one of those... Have not had any major pinion issues though yet.

How big is your ds? Maybe try to shrink down a size and up the wall size?

Have the same issue with a LP9 and 33's...

a traction bar is the obivous solution...

do you trailer? you could set the pinion angle higher than spec if you dont see high speeds...

maybe try changing your approach angles and how you tackle the obstacles..usually 6" one way or the other might get you over......I only hard hit my rear DS once and that is when the rock I was on tipped over. and yes taller tires will greatly enhance your BOA

xjnation said:

maybe try changing your approach angles and how you tackle the obstacles..usually 6" one way or the other might get you over......I only hard hit my rear DS once and that is when the rock I was on tipped over. and yes taller tires will greatly enhance your BOA

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That may work in AZ and out west but here we have this think called rain and rivers that like to make the rocks wet... oh yea and did I mention the mud and other items that make you slide to just the right angle to whack it straight on? LOL!

Yea it sees the trailer most of the times... so I'm not that crazy for thinking about trying some slidders?

Going to a 2" tube next, not sure the thickness .25 at least. Friend is building it for me. His comment was: "You want break this one!" And he was wintess to at least 2 of the past broken ones. So he know my driving style... I'll try this and see.

Ghost said:

His comment was: "You want break this one!"

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everything can be broken.

I like the lateral bars idea.
It'll give you something else to slide on and prevent axle wrap, to boot.
Best thing is, you won't need to upgrade later and they're cheap to build.
Just use nice joints on the frame ends and you'll be golden.

Ghost said:

That may work in AZ and out west but here we have this think called rain and rivers that like to make the rocks wet... oh yea and did I mention the mud and other items that make you slide to just the right angle to whack it straight on? LOL!

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Devils Play Ground eat your Jeep from this past weekend? My Driveshaft got chewed up when I was there back in January. My traction bar was the only think that saved me from drive shaft death. Also a smaller diameter shaft with a thicker wall will help. Thats another factor in why my shaft is still alive.

AARON

Insert "brokeback mountain" jokes here

I discovered this little thing called broken-back driveshaft angles. You see with a 2 joint shaft the joints just need to have the same operating angle an in-phase. This is usually done with the pinion pointed below straight at the t-case, but can also be done with the pinion pointed higher than straight. However I would never recommend this with leafs and no good traction bar, because as soon as they start wrapping the joint will bind much quicker than if it's pointed normal.

Okie Terry said:

I like the lateral bars idea.
It'll give you something else to slide on and prevent axle wrap, to boot.
Best thing is, you won't need to upgrade later and they're cheap to build.
Just use nice joints on the frame ends and you'll be golden.

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WOW! I think I'm having a heart attack.... lol! An Idea that seems hokie and I'm not getting slammed on it! The beauty of these "sliders" is that I may be able to incorporate them towards a triangleated 4 link later.... I guess I need to invest in Currie, cause it looks like some more JJ will be ordered......

Also, my pinion is not pointed flat. It is slightly high but not much. These are basically stock rear 4 popper DS's that I have toasted. Only 2 have been from rocks. The other three were from axle wrap b4 I got a set of Alcans back there....

Buddy of mine in a Toy SR5 Ex. Cab build a skid that went under his rear DS from front to back. It has worked for years.

Harvo said:

Buddy of mine in a Toy SR5 Ex. Cab build a skid that went under his rear DS from front to back. It has worked for years.

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Got any pictures of that? I just have trouble seeing that since it would have to move so much...

He is taking some pics for you. When he sends them I will post them.