The old "Front Drive shaft SYE quick fix" questions

hello all,
I have read and read TONS on this topic, and I am actually fairly well educated on it ....but I still feel like there are some things that don't get accounted for, and some things I still don't quite understand. I have a week off from school for spring break this week, and I need to get these parts now while i'll have time. I have a 96 classic with what i'm pretty sure is the 30/35 np231

OK, firstly
I understand that you can use a (pref. auto) np231 front driveshaft from a junkyard (with the already built-in slip) along with some ($30-40) flange WITHOUT a SYE for the rear driveshaft?? is that correct? I know it has to be from a 231 and pref. an auto because they are a bit longer....but what years have the correct 231 spline and everything that will work on my 96?

I have also heard that when/if you DO use a SYE you need to buy a double cardon shaft (or some explorers will have them on the front) To the extent of my knowledge I'm pretty sure that all is correct......

BUT!?!? Do I need to know exactly how much lift I'm going to have before I start buying junkyard front shafts? For example, will the front junkyard shaft & flange work with any amount of lift?...cause I'm really liking this route,... or should I plan on getting the SYE and DC shaft for a lift around 5"

I'm not sure at this point how much lift I'm wanting...I'm really looking at 4.5 to 5.5ish (just wanting some 32's and good amount of clearance.... No rockcliming just the mud trails and camping) but I really NEED to know my options with this because I have some free time and I need to get my parts together. I am really wanting to go with the junker front 231 slip-shaft and flange for the $150-200 price that I have heard everyone brag about. However, there are some SYE kits on eBay for like $215, and if an explorer front shaft would work, and would be that much better off (with an actual SYE), for just a little more money then I would rather do that.

Thank you all for your time, and for putting up with a semi-ejamacated noob.

you have to have a sye to use the shaft and flange. it might not work with the 35 since it has a shorter pinion. you can do it real cheap and use a hack and tap sye. i did mine all for about 200$ includining sye shaft and flange. measure how long of one you will need to be sure that it will fit.

96CheroKeeClassik said:

I have a 96 classic with what i'm pretty sure is the 30/35 np231

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Check here (http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/gear1.html) to compare; you have either the D35 or the C8.25 in either 29-spline or more likely the 27-spline variety.

96CheroKeeClassik said:

I understand that you can use a (pref. auto) np231 front driveshaft from a junkyard (with the already built-in slip) along with some ($30-40) flange WITHOUT a SYE for the rear driveshaft??

Click to expand...

Nope; you still need the SYE to seal the rear of the t-case.

96CheroKeeClassik said:

I have also heard that when/if you DO use a SYE you need to buy a double cardon shaft

Click to expand...

The front XJ driveshaft is a double-cardan shaft with the exception of some early 84-86 models.

Read more at http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/sye.html and see what I ended up doing to resolve the SYE problem.

Ok, so if i have to get the SYE no matter what.....along with a xj front DC donor shaft.....will this setup work on any reasonable amount of lift?? also is this (SYE & donor shaft) all i need to complete this? I'm guessing that flange i mentioned earlier just used for a hack-n-tap set-up?

thanks for the diff list.......I just went outside and looked and it is definately an Chrys 8.25 with the lipped circumference and angular piece sticking out from bottom....but how do i determine which spline amount i have to know which driveshaft to buy?? (27 or 29?) and which donors to look from?

My jeep was manufactured in May of 96. so hopefully that can tell me something. thanks again.

Spline count doesn't matter for the driveshaft length/type. It's only a matter when you regear. Most '96 XJs are 27-spline (in other words, the axle shafts have 27 splines) while some of the last ones for that model year were 29-spline.

I'm not sure what flange you're referring to, so can't answer whether that's what the hack-n-tap used. There IS a flange used with the RE H+T SYE, but that's a pretty generic term. Have you read the link yet? I had the H+T and now have the PORC SYE at 4.5"

the spicer flange, part number 211229x, is needed on the hack and tap. yucca you mentioned he needs teh sye to seal his t-case, i thought 96 was the switch to the sealed output shaft?

Oh crap - it was...

Then does that mean i don't need the SYE because of the output seal on the 96+ models? and no one has really said what the different heights that these stock front shafts will allow....thanks a lot guys

and heres a pic of my rear.



and front...

You have a C8.25, and you still need an SYE.

yes sye yes 8.25 and you might be able to make it to around 5" safely if you can find the right driveshaft. my zj front shaft(being used in rear of my xj) is 34.5" extended, 31.5" collapsed joint to joint, and it is working good for me and i'm at 4-5" of lift.

so, is there any specific model years to look for as donors? all i really know is that it has to be a shaft from a np231. so, basically your saying that a xj front shaft is prob better for a 3-4" lift......and a yj front for 5-6"?

just start pulling and measuring and look to find the specs above, and its a zj(grand cherokee) not a yj.

96CheroKeeClassik said:

so, is there any specific model years to look for as donors? all i really know is that it has to be a shaft from a np231. so, basically your saying that a xj front shaft is prob better for a 3-4" lift......and a yj front for 5-6"?

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As long as it has an automatic transmission. I dont think that there is a length difference between the xj or the zj shaft length wise. I would try to find one off of a newer model, with less mileage (just for less likelyhood of wear in the slip, and the cardan). Put some new U-joints in, and maybe drop it off at your freindly local neighborhood driveshaft shop to get balanced. I would also purge the old grease out of the slip with some fresh grease.
Try to grab another for a spare shaft, and wash off you diff, its gross. Good luck.

I'm running a front shaft at 6" of lift. Ran all weekend at Winterfest with no problems. 96CheroKee, Where are you located? I'm about 30 miles south of Effingham. You can come take a look at the jeep if you want. JIM.

It will work if you need a shaft around 31" or so in length. As in my case where it needs to be about 41" the front driveshaft does not work, it's too short by alot. 89 XJ, auto, 231, 5" lift and custom t-case x-member.

I'm located in Carbondale, IL about an hour SW of Mt.Vernon, IL if you've heard of that town by chance..? I appreciate the offer jim, and some pics or something would be great....but i probablly can't make it up there any time real soon.

I have no idea what length I'm going to need beacause I'm still piecing together my lift.....so I guess I'll just have to wait untill I have it lifted to know what length i'm looking at. I'm prob going to get a hack n' tap with the spicier flange.....but i'm still debating over the PORC sye, or the sye's on eBay for $215.......any pros and cons would be great.

thanks again

PORC SYE $180- free shipping. Why not?

I have almost 7" lift with the stock XJ front shaft in the rear. No issues.

John

PORC SYE???? someone let me in on what that is?

it is a SYE that you can get at http://www.performanceoffroadcenter...3_120&osCsid=c954acef1b0f76fff70647a0daf37bc5

its listed now as $179.99 with free shipping.


Did any of you guys that have been sucessfully running the front shaft in the rear have to use the spicer flange to connect the SYE to the shaft?? or is that just used with the hack n' tap??