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Cutting a hole in my floor to fit my new aero tank

9

90Pioneer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I have a '96 Cherokee and I have a 30 gallon high capacity Aero replacement tank on it's way to me. If I mount it as is, I would stand to lose 1.5" of ground clearance. Not a bad trade off for an extra 10 gallons of fuel.

But what I really want to do is gain at least an inch of ground clearance. Is there anything that would prevent me from mounting the tank 2.5 inches into my cargo area?

I want to rip out the cargo area carpet, and cut a big hole in the floor large enough for the top end of the tank to be mounted 2 or 3 inches into my cargo area. I would then weld some sheet metal to the hole I cut in the floor and make a casing around the tank, sealing it from the cargo area. Basically ending up with a large rectangular indentation in my cargo floor, allowing the tank to be mounted higher.

Does this sound like it would work? I may have to make some custom tank straps, but that shouldn't be too hard. Would it be a good idea to plate the cargo area incase I loose any structural integrity from cutting the floor? Is the cargo floor large enough to do this?
 
just a thought - have you considered mounting it 100% in the back? Im not sure exactly what the useage of your jeep is but you would obviously gain a lot of clearence in back but conversly lose your trunk
 
If the 96's are like my 89 there are two small crossmembers that you would have to put out. You might have to replace them with something else.

IM000342.jpg


K
 
Thanks for that picture, that helps me out a lot. I did consider putting the tank in the back, but I really do enjoy my cargo space. I think mounting the tank a few inches into the jeep would be the best of both worlds. Since the carpet would no longer work, I was going to Linex my cargo area.

I have already ordered and paid for the Aero tank. They are the only company I have found that offers a tank and sending unit for the '96 model year. The wait is about 20 days, cost is around $500 with a skid plate built in. My factory tank is has a huge dent from wheelin. Takes about 20 minutes to put 10 gallons in. A new tank from the dealer was about $450, so overall the Aero tank is a pretty fair deal.

Suggestions on how to build new crossmembers around my tank?

With the tank mounted a few inches into the cargo area, would I have any problems filling the tank using the factory fill tube and location?
 
Last edited:
$450???...wow, part stores are only $160, at least thats what i paid for one for my 92.
 
you probably could have called northwest metal products ( www.nwmp.com ) and had then make the tank a little shorter and still got a tank with extended capacity. Remember that xj's are unibody construction, which means any sheet metal removal between the "frames" is going to weaken the body structure.
 
I tried nwmp and they had no interest in helping me. Besides it's too late, I have already paid for my Aero tank.

Any ideas on what I should do with the fill tube?
 
Just a random thought............if you raise the tank too high you may have trouble getting it to fill all the way.
 
I have been planning something similiar, except I will be raising the stock tank.

Issues are the crossmembers between the 'frame'. The shocks mount to one of these. My plan was to reinforce those as I come to them. For the cut hole, I would weld angle iron around the perimeter to reinforce it, and to bolt a top cover to. The support for the bottom of the tank would also be built as a permanent structure. Probably square stock welded inside the frame rails, also reinforcing the area. The tank will be "top loaded". It will probably be held down with 2 small ratchet straps.

Filler tube is the other issue. Depending on how high you go you may be able to utilize the stock location. I think a great way is to move to a lexan quarter panel, and mount a filler in that. Though I haven't made any decisions yet.

And in my case, I am hoping I wont have to lengthen the pump harness. I might be able to get away with just lengthening the rubber fuel hose.
 
So long as the filler is still around 3" higher than the top of the tank you will be fine to use the stock point. If you were not worried about having to take the tank out again, welding the floor hole directly to the tank would allow it to be even stronger the what was there before. My only concern though is if the tank is up to being a structual member and would not leak if twisting forces were applied.
The two main structures shown above are there to hang the tank off and not just to stiffen the floor. So I would line the hole with 1 1/2" angle iron 1/8"-3/16" thick and then make a box frame off that to go around the tank with the same angle iron that sheet metal could then be attached to. Add uprights to support the longest sides in the same place the the mounting straps would attach. The top sheet metal could be the old floor so you can use the ribs it has without extra supports underneath it.
I would think though to just lift the Jeep the 1.5" extra would achieve the same thing and give you better ramp over plus approach and departure angles for a lot less work.
 
I did think about lifting the jeep another 1.5", except I already have an RE 5.5" lift, which I think is plenty high, especially since I'm only running 33s for the time being. I also want to maintain a low center of gravity.
 
About those two frame members ... you could cut those and "Box Around" the space where the tank fits in. Just use metal beams in the process. Use some L-Beams. Weld your square opening to the two beams in the front, and to the two beams in the back, and it should be ok. If you could also weld two beams along the sides of the box, and connect them with some cross beams in front and behind, that would definitely make it stronger.

I wouldn't weld the tank directly into the frame. Too much stress applied directly to the tank.
 
montanaman said:
About those two frame members ... you could cut those and "Box Around" the space where the tank fits in. Just use metal beams in the process. Use some L-Beams. Weld your square opening to the two beams in the front, and to the two beams in the back, and it should be ok. If you could also weld two beams along the sides of the box, and connect them with some cross beams in front and behind, that would definitely make it stronger.

I wouldn't weld the tank directly into the frame. Too much stress applied directly to the tank.
Click to expand...

Did you read all of what I posted??
 
Gojeep said:
Did you read all of what I posted??
Click to expand...
Ha ha ... LOL. Didn't read all of it. I saw the part about the tank being 3 inches lower and figured you were talking about that.

Well ... great minds think alike, I guess. I worked as a carpenter for a while, and when we installed wide skylights, we had to cut out roofing rafters and box around them with doubled-up 2 x 10s. Seeing those beams in there made me think of doing the same thing on the floor of the passenger area.

Guess I should read the posts more carefully before answering!
 
Anyone else chime in with anymore advice or info?

I remember reading a thread awhile back where someone had done something similar, but I can't seem to find it anymore?
 
Well I finally received my new tank today.

The finish on the tank is very poorly done. Looks like they let preschoolers paint the thing.

It was also news to me that the tank is not mounted with straps, but they have tabs welded to the tank, so it will be bolted on. The tabs were left unpainted and open to rust. The tabs are rough and not cut very well.

When compairing the welds on the tank to things AJ has welded for me, AJ's welds are much better.

To top it off UPS damaged the tank in shipping, as the box was partially destroyed. They scratched up the paint real good on one side. Looks like they dropped the tank from a pretty good height.

Now comes the fun of getting her mounted.
 
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