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Teraflex High Steer Kit

fdsa487

NAXJA Forum User
Ok so im going to get the Teraflex D30 high steer kit. I’ve been reading up and see that it was designed for the TJ but it will fit an XJ. What are the modifications necessary to make it fit on the XJ? It’s a 2000 with ~4.5" of lift.
Im probably going to order it from here. This is their kit
TeraFlex High Steer Knuckle (990S), HD Tie Rod and Drag Link.


http://www.sams4x4store.com/index.html
 
Same mods you'd need on a TJ: Trackbar shortening and lower mount moved above axle in line with the drag link...and relocated swaybar endlinks. See JKS for the parts to make relocation easier. There's a good chance the tierod will have to be cut down because it's too long. Every single one I've seen go on had to have that bar cut down at least half an inch. :) Sure beats having it come too short. ;) Also be careful of your backspacing, I've seen a few wheels that didn't fit correctly and ran into the upper arm of the new knuckle. You've got a 2000 so you won't have to worry about different brake styles.
 
fdsa487 said:
Dang!!! What a PITA!!
What kit is comprable with the Tera kit and will install right out of the box?

none :D

call Currie and ask them for a D44 with high steer ready to bolt in to your XJ
 
I have the Tera kit and like it.. But like any highsteet it's not just bolt on and go.
Had to build the over axle bracket, new trackbar and I ended up building a draglink as well. I had the Teraflex DL but with the TRE's they provided it rubbed on my tires, I was running 35x12.50 16" with 4 inch backspacing.
After I called Tera they said the kit was designed for 10.50" wide tires and or less back spacing.
I think you can get away with that tire wheel combo and the Tera Draglink if you run wheels with 3.75" back spacing it would be very close though.

I did use the Teraflex tierod but and just recently flipped it over the knuckle.. Why Tera does not do this is beyond me.
 
fdsa487 said:
Since I have the RE HD Trackbar and bracket will I have to buy a new track bar if I did this?

cut off some and get it re-taped....

1" left hand threads...
 
Ok, so I called Off Road Warehouse ("ORW") (a local off road shop in SoCal) and they said that they would charge $150 for the install. They said its about 2 hours of work. I told them about the track bar relocation and all but I don’t think the really know what is all involved with the install. I would pay $150 to have it done because 1st off I don’t have a welder. 2nd I don’t have a tap and dye kit for retreading and 3rd even if I had a welder I not good at it.
 
fdsa487 said:
Ok, so I called Off Road Warehouse ("ORW") (a local off road shop in SoCal) and they said that they would charge $150 for the install. They said its about 2 hours of work. I told them about the track bar relocation and all but I don’t think the really know what is all involved with the install. I would pay $150 to have it done because 1st off I don’t have a welder. 2nd I don’t have a tap and dye kit for retreading and 3rd even if I had a welder I not good at it.

Yeah sounds to me like they don't really know what all it involves either.
 
fdsa487 said:
Ok, so I called Off Road Warehouse ("ORW") (a local off road shop in SoCal) and they said that they would charge $150 for the install. They said its about 2 hours of work. I told them about the track bar relocation and all but I don’t think the really know what is all involved with the install. I would pay $150 to have it done because 1st off I don’t have a welder. 2nd I don’t have a tap and dye kit for retreading and 3rd even if I had a welder I not good at it.
If you go with the tie rod under the knuckle, you might be OK and not have to hack and relocate all that stuff on the axle.

If you go over the knuckle with the new tie rod, you need to hack off the swaybar & trackbar & stabilizer mounts, fab a trackbar bracket on the axle, fab or buy a trackbar frame mount, fab a trackbar and you'll need either a custom bent tie-rod or have to use WJ TRE's and a JKS tie-rod. From there, the install is pretty basic :shiver: It's alot of work for steering, you can do a WJ swap and get good brakes too.

The JKS over axle bracket is designed for the WJ knuckle, which the steering arm isn't as tall as the Tera. That why you should fab one that's the correct height.
 
jonboy said:
If you go with the tie rod under the knuckle, you might be OK and not have to hack and relocate all that stuff on the axle.

If you go over the knuckle with the new tie rod, you need to hack off the swaybar & trackbar & stabilizer mounts, fab a trackbar bracket on the axle, fab or buy a trackbar frame mount, fab a trackbar and you'll need either a custom bent tie-rod or have to use WJ TRE's and a JKS tie-rod. From there, the install is pretty basic :shiver: It's alot of work for steering, you can do a WJ swap and get good brakes too.

The JKS over axle bracket is designed for the WJ knuckle, which the steering arm isn't as tall as the Tera. That why you should fab one that's the correct height.

You're mistaken. First of all, we're not referring to the position of the TIEROD in relation to doing anything with the trackbar. It's the position of the draglink that necessitates relocation of the trackbar, otherwise you'll end up with horrible bumpsteer and awful binding on articulation. The JKS over axle bracket will work with the Tera steering knuckle and it's actually easier to put on than the misc. Rancho bracket we have modified in the past to do the same thing. A lot less work, too. ;)

To reiterate my previous post: You have to do a fair amount of work to get this steering setup on. Beware those who don't know what they're doing. Save yourself a headache and find a shop that knows what's going on.
 
ECKSJAY said:
You're mistaken. First of all, we're not referring to the position of the TIEROD in relation to doing anything with the trackbar. It's the position of the draglink that necessitates relocation of the trackbar, otherwise you'll end up with horrible bumpsteer and awful binding on articulation. The JKS over axle bracket will work with the Tera steering knuckle and it's actually easier to put on than the misc. Rancho bracket we have modified in the past to do the same thing. A lot less work, too. ;)

To reiterate my previous post: You have to do a fair amount of work to get this steering setup on. Beware those who don't know what they're doing. Save yourself a headache and find a shop that knows what's going on.

OK, well, what about this steering set up. In their article they claim that no modification is necessary. What do you think?

http://www.offroadonly.com/products/new/u-turn/
 
"Finally-- a bolt-on steering system for Jeep Wranglers from Off Road Only! The strongest, most well engineered extreme duty steering system and it's completely bolt-on! As with all of Off Road Only's products, this system exceeds factory quality and enhances BOTH on and off road performance."
 
Ok well the reason that im looking to upgrade the steering is that im getting a Long Arm Kit. @ 4.5" of lift do I, since I wil soon have the long arm kit, need to upgrade the steering? If I can leave it stock I will but I want to be able to get max articulation.
 
why bother with that TERA kit when you can do the whole WJ knuckle conversion AND upgrade your brakes to dual piston 12" rotors at the same time.


for about the same amount of $$

:shocked: :shocked:
 
OK.. when is it ACTUALLY needed that you do a HD steering conversion? I have the money now so Im planning on doing it because Im getting a LA Kit and dont want articulation and/or droop to be limited by my stock steering linkage. @ 4.5-5" of lift and long arms do you think that the stock steering need to be upgraded? I appreciate you commentary.
 
fdsa487 said:
OK.. when is it ACTUALLY needed that you do a HD steering conversion? I have the money now so Im planning on doing it because Im getting a LA Kit and dont want articulation and/or droop to be limited by my stock steering linkage. @ 4.5-5" of lift and long arms do you think that the stock steering need to be upgraded? I appreciate you commentary.

IMHO it's needed when you get involved with something as radical as a longarm. Have you entertained options of stronger setups rather than higher clearance? I was limited on resources when I did my steering upgrade, so I opted for the Currie steering linkage along with a Rubicon Express trackbar and bracket. DONE. No heavy modifications and my JKS disconnects still work with everything.
 
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