Front end work - problem while driving

Here’s the deal (yes, I searched).

When starting out (from a stop) with the wheel turned (either direction) I get a shimmy. The steering wheel pretty much pulses side-to-side. I took the XJ (’98) to a local alignment shop and they said that I need new: ball joints (upper & lower, both sides), tie rod end, track bar, alignment. The total OTD quote was $650 and that is pretty steep.

Does it sound like they narrowed down the problem well enough?

Does the price seem fair?

I’m pretty decent with a wrench…should I just give it a shot?

Thanks

The price seems OK if you actually needed all the parts replaced, I assume alignment and fees/taxes are included. I still have my shimmy after replacing most fe parts - not ball joints, but I do need a alignment and am installing a trackbar with poly bushings first. Also had front tires balanced, a little less shimmy. Parts are really easy to replace!

what's the chances all of those parts are bad at once. i would bet that the front end shop replaces vereything possible just to make money. i am a jeep tech and rarely do all of theese components fail, an occaisional tie rod end or track bar, butif you dont have a knocking noise when turnig the wheel back and forth then i wouldnt think they were bad. there is a possibility you can have a belt shifting in a tire. i would get a second opinion before i spent money replacing practically every component in the front end.

Wouldn't a bad U-Joint make that kind of shimmy also?

montanaman said:

Wouldn't a bad U-Joint make that kind of shimmy also?

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Definetly so and they also cause DW. I think the shop is shotgunning it. If they knew jeeps they would have added the "U" joints.

JoBo

The parts would be $350, so it doesn't sound like they are ripping you off, IF YOU REALLY NEED THOSE PARTS REPLACED.

It possible that those parts all wore out at the same time, but unlikely, I'd get a 2nd opinion.

You can test all those parts yourself. Just put the front of the Jeep up on Jackstands with the front suspension hanging and no load on it.

Grab each one of those items and push/pull and twist and see if you can see and/or feel and play in them. If there is any noticeable play, they need to be replaced, if there is no noticeable play, they "SHOULD" be fine. Tires are pretty heavy, so put a 2X4 under them and lever up and down to check the ball joints, as well push the tire (try to tilt it) left/right top/bottom.

Replacing the Upper/Lower Ball Joints will require a special tool that is very expensive. You'll either have to borrow or rent that tool. The rest should be fairly easy.

As well as bad "U-Joints", which you can perform the same test on. Would not a bad steering damper be the cause/contributor to the problem. Never tested/replaced a steering damper, but I would imagine you'd test it like a shock, have to disconnect one side and push it in and out. It should create a LOT of resistance to being pushed in and out, and that resistance should increase or decrease with the force you push/pull on it. The big thing to look for is INCONSISTANT Resistance as it extends/retracts, dead spots.

Thanks for all the replies.

I replaced all driveshaft u-joints about a year ago. Perhaps I should remove the front driveshaft and see if it drives better? Is it ok to drive around without the front driveshaft? I know there are u-joints in the front axles as well, and I never replaced those. I've never replaced the ball joints, track bar or tie rod. The shocks are pretty new, but the steering damper is original.

This is just a Jeep I use for transporting stuff that is too big for the other car, and occasional trips to the snow. I don't want to blow a ton of $$ on it.

Rick Anderson said:

Replacing the Upper/Lower Ball Joints will require a special tool that is very expensive. You'll either have to borrow or rent that tool.

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What tool is that? I have a $30 Harbor Freight ball joint/u. joint tool that others have said does quite a nice job.

Is it in 4WD??????

How many miles are on it? I was advised at about 125,000 the front axle shaft outer u-joints may go bad. Turns out one of mine did just that at 140,000 with the same prob. you mentioned. Not saying thats the prob. but could be. I just ordered two HD w/grease fittings from NAPA for $26.00 each.

The price isn't bad for all the parts installed if needed. You can easily check them yourself. Use a large pair of pliers or filter pliers and squeeze your tie rod ends up into the joint. If you have any movement, replace them. Twisting is OK, you should not have any motion in and out of the joint. On you ball joints, jack the wheel up about a 1/2" off the ground and use a pry bar to lift the wheel. Push down on the pry bar with one hand while the other is on top of the wheel. Assuming your bearings are good, if you feel a popping in your hand on top of the wheel, replace your ball joints.

I've do this for a living, have for years and haven't seen too many times where there weren't multiple failures. It usually takes more then one worn component before you notice what's going on. But, I do replace upper and lower joints if one is bad.

From what you are describing, it sounds more like a warped rotor.

My XJ has 153k miles on it.

Timber said:

What tool is that? I have a $30 Harbor Freight ball joint/u. joint tool that others have said does quite a nice job.

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Have you used that tool yet? I'd be interested in how it works. See this page, a guy had a bad experience with a harborfreight ball joint tool:

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARadjustableBallJoints/adjustableballjoints.htm

Scroll down a bit and he talks about how his HF tool bent so bad he couldn't use it any more. Let me know how your experience was. I'd prefer to not spend a Franklin on a tool I'll use maybe 5 times in my life.

Actually, I have used it to replace all prop. shaft u. joints on the Jeep, and I'm doing the axle u. joints this week. It's worked flawlessly in that regard. I hope I don't need to find out how well it works for ball joints, but it has already been worth many times its purchase price compared to what it would cost to have had the u. joints replaced by a shop.