RWKHausSupply
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- yorba linda, Cali
Well I only had the pleasure of driving my 90 in stock form for abotu 30 miles and it felt ok. new motor, new brakes and new small odds and ends.
Well then after I determined that the motor/tranny/TC was good to go, I did the rest. I removed everything in the front and rear, and did a trussed 8.8 rear 6.75" lift, and front Full traction 6.5" long arm kit, with 35" pro crap xterrains.
Well after finialy getting the steering done and getting to drive it in its new revised set-up, I found the brakes to be Horrible, of course like most others find with 35" tires in a single diaphram booster, XJ.
So I was going to do a 95/96 XJ swap. But a few here told me the pro's of the WJ setup. I really didnt care about the washer bottle move on the early booster swap. I just wanted to go about it as low cost yet as safe as poss.
So I looked in to a WJ booster and master at car-part.com. I found one from a 04 with 17k miles and at 150 seemed like a lot. Then I searched for a 96 setup, and for a used setup its about 100 plus its got upteen thousand miles on it. Or a autozone master and boost at about 65-75ea. So either way it was going to be about 150$. Well the sightly used 04 WJ swap seemed like for the price adn size being smaller was just a tad on the better decision side.
The swap was Etreamly easy and took about 2hours at most. Givin I love to drink Redbull and dont slow for much, so a 4hr time est is about fair for the average. I did not take pictures like I should have, but those can be found if ya looked, by other members that have done the swap here.
I am just posting this to give the advise that if you have about 150$, a grinder, and basic hand tools, you can do this swap and its a NIGHT AND DAY difference. I just returned from a 4day event and used them Alot on decents and hill holding while climbing, Never once did I feel worried.
I came from a 00 TJ with 35's and it felt identical in stopping power.
The best advise I could give though is to take your time while grinding down the flat area on the brake rod. It allows you to use your existing brake light switch and like its posted in the write ups, a little too much and your adding material back and not enough and your switch wont function. Its not all that hard, just take that part of the swap with patience.
The brake lines were the only other mod that needs change. I decided to just remove the prop valve. At the master I found the (made by edelmann) 12mm bubble and 10mm bubble adapters to 3/16" DF line. One the front a 10" piece pre-made line from autozone, down to a 3-way 3/16DF tee from AZ also. then just threaded the three lines in to the tee. The rear I also used a 3/16" DF 10" pre-made line down to a female 3/16" DF to female, I think it was, 5/16" DF adapter that allowed me to just attach to the stock line. Yes this gives no warning if a front or rear system fails, but in my case I felt ok with this.
All in all I would recommend this mod to everyone with a pre-95 XJ. the total cost is depending on the deal you find at the time, but for me it was under 200 total with fluid and all...
Well then after I determined that the motor/tranny/TC was good to go, I did the rest. I removed everything in the front and rear, and did a trussed 8.8 rear 6.75" lift, and front Full traction 6.5" long arm kit, with 35" pro crap xterrains.
Well after finialy getting the steering done and getting to drive it in its new revised set-up, I found the brakes to be Horrible, of course like most others find with 35" tires in a single diaphram booster, XJ.
So I was going to do a 95/96 XJ swap. But a few here told me the pro's of the WJ setup. I really didnt care about the washer bottle move on the early booster swap. I just wanted to go about it as low cost yet as safe as poss.
So I looked in to a WJ booster and master at car-part.com. I found one from a 04 with 17k miles and at 150 seemed like a lot. Then I searched for a 96 setup, and for a used setup its about 100 plus its got upteen thousand miles on it. Or a autozone master and boost at about 65-75ea. So either way it was going to be about 150$. Well the sightly used 04 WJ swap seemed like for the price adn size being smaller was just a tad on the better decision side.
The swap was Etreamly easy and took about 2hours at most. Givin I love to drink Redbull and dont slow for much, so a 4hr time est is about fair for the average. I did not take pictures like I should have, but those can be found if ya looked, by other members that have done the swap here.
I am just posting this to give the advise that if you have about 150$, a grinder, and basic hand tools, you can do this swap and its a NIGHT AND DAY difference. I just returned from a 4day event and used them Alot on decents and hill holding while climbing, Never once did I feel worried.
I came from a 00 TJ with 35's and it felt identical in stopping power.
The best advise I could give though is to take your time while grinding down the flat area on the brake rod. It allows you to use your existing brake light switch and like its posted in the write ups, a little too much and your adding material back and not enough and your switch wont function. Its not all that hard, just take that part of the swap with patience.
The brake lines were the only other mod that needs change. I decided to just remove the prop valve. At the master I found the (made by edelmann) 12mm bubble and 10mm bubble adapters to 3/16" DF line. One the front a 10" piece pre-made line from autozone, down to a 3-way 3/16DF tee from AZ also. then just threaded the three lines in to the tee. The rear I also used a 3/16" DF 10" pre-made line down to a female 3/16" DF to female, I think it was, 5/16" DF adapter that allowed me to just attach to the stock line. Yes this gives no warning if a front or rear system fails, but in my case I felt ok with this.
All in all I would recommend this mod to everyone with a pre-95 XJ. the total cost is depending on the deal you find at the time, but for me it was under 200 total with fluid and all...
