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Solution for tires rubbing on LCAs

S

summitlt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Maine
I have a BB and 31s. The tires rub the LCAs pretty hard if i let them. I shimmed my turing stops to get rid of the rubbing, now my turnign radius seems a lot bigger.

So im looking for a different solution. I see stuff about WJ LCA's, but I cant find any in the yards and on ebay theyre pretty expensive.

What are my other options? Wheelspacers? How big would I need?
 
Wheelspacers will definitely help, but you can never really be sure if it'll completely clear them or not. What is your backspacing at right now? If they're stock wheels, they're gonna rub pretty bad (mine do anyways).
 
I'm running a BB with 31s on the stock 15x7 wheels and a used pair of WJ LCAs with room to spare. I'd say keep looking, it's not something you find everyday, but perhaps now and then. I got a pair for $75 shipped off one of these boards last year.

Some of those bent tubular aftermarket LCAs might be pretty good also, and an adjustable set can be easier than shimming to get the castor set properly.


GM
 
wheel spacers or new wheels. dont waste your money on wj arms.
 
Any ideas on how big of a spacer? I have stock wheels from a 98. So I really dont want to get rid of them, since I like them.

Im thinking of stacking washers behind the wheel on the lugs to see what I need for a spacer (Obviously as a "in the driveway" thing)
 
Wheel spacers put more stress on the bearings and will probably cause premature failure.

Live with the steering stops like you're got them, get new wheels, or replace the lower control arms. Replacing the lower control arms is the next cheapest in line
 
Can you you use thinner washers on the sttering stops? You don't need much to stop the rubbing. I got a set of used ZJ Canyon rims for $80 (with tires) that stopped the rubbing. They must have slightly different backspacing.
 
Compromise isn't an attractive option. Rubbing isn't necessarily a problem, although some lugs can grab the LCA petty good, but one of the nice features of the XJ/MJ series is the tight turning radius. Some of my u-turns changed to three-point-turns after installing P235/75R15s, and 31s without correction or compensation for the stock LCAs give you the same turning radius as an F-250. Sweet.

Compensation can work in some situations. Wheel spacers or new wheels may provide all or some of the extra clearance (around 1") for 31s with the stock LCAs, but the wider stance may prevent 31s on a BB from stuffing up inside the stock fender flare.

Correction of the limiting factor by replacing the LCAs seems the most direct and the most economical, other than living with the limitation.


GM
 
summitlt said:
Any ideas on how big of a spacer? I have stock wheels from a 98. So I really dont want to get rid of them, since I like them.

Im thinking of stacking washers behind the wheel on the lugs to see what I need for a spacer (Obviously as a "in the driveway" thing)
Click to expand...

Spidertrax Spacers, anything else just isn't a good idea. And with as much as those cost, just get some new wheels.

http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/...D&Product_Code=CCA-1&Category_Code=sus_xj_par

This would be the cheapest option unless you wanted to get black steelies............:puke:
 
Last edited:
Ramsey said:
wheel spacers or new wheels. dont waste your money on wj arms.
Click to expand...
Why not wait to get some at a decent price? I checked all posts like this until I finally got some from a guy on Jeepforum for $50 plus shipping. Granted, it took almost two years for the opportunity to arise, but I'm happy now.
 
gtpolkus said:
Wheel spacers put more stress on the bearings and will probably cause premature failure.

Live with the steering stops like you're got them, get new wheels, or replace the lower control arms. Replacing the lower control arms is the next cheapest in line
Click to expand...

so do less backspaced wheels.

timber waiting 2 years might not be an option, but i think if your gonna spend money on new lca's might as well get some aftermarket adjustable beefy ones.

cheap wheel spacers= http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415516
 
Last edited:
Ramsey said:
timber waiting 2 years might not be an option, but i think if your gonna spend money on new lca's might as well get some aftermarket adjustable beefy ones.
Click to expand...
I definitely agree with you on that. I still have 235/75 BFG ATs, so I could afford to take my time and I know not everyone has that luxury.
 
The easiest way to determine what width spacers you need is the following. They just need to be half the extra width between the tyre you did run without rubbing to what you have now. I think 235's are pretty close to the widest on a stock rim so if you went to 31's which are 265 wide, half the difference would only be 15 mm. So a 15 mm spacer is all you would need to have the same clearance to the control arm as when you had 235's. You cant buy them that thin but at least you know the 1" ones would give you plenty and allow a bigger one later.
1" spacers will have the same leverage on the bearings as a wheel with 1" of less offset or BS. So a stock rim has 5.25 of BS will have the same leverage as a wheel of the same width with 4.25 of BS. Where wheels are better is when you run less BS difference than you can buy in the thinnest wheel spacer thickness to clear the control arms.
 
Yes, but the factors include tread width and diameter as well as sidewall dimension, and the additional LCA clearance required for 31s mounted on 15x7 wheels is around an inch, maybe a tad more, depending on actual dimension and tread pattern.

An inch of either wheel spacer or less offset may extend the edge of the tire tread beyond the edge of the fender flare lip rather than inside the flare, and compression travel may be compromised without additional lift or fender flare modification.

summitlt, stacking washers on the studs in the driveway to measure the additional LCA clearance required should give you a good picture of the situation.


GM
 
there is a lot of really bad info here...
 
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