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Replacing my Trans this weekend, tips?

W

whurston

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chandler, AZ
Hey everyone, I am going to replace my aw4 transmission this weekend with one I bought from a wrecked xj. I am unsure as to the mileage on the new trans but the old ones shot and it was cheap so here we go. I need advice on what I can do to the new trans while it is out of the vehicle (seals etc?)Also, I have never removed and replaced a transmission on a jeep before, if you could point me in the driection of a thread that tells a good step by step R & R -or if you know how to do it, let me know. I just don't want to screw this up and I cant afford any shop right now :( Thanks in advance!
 
What year/engine is your Jeep and what year is the donor? If the trannies don't have the same spline count, you'll need to swap the xfer case with it (might be easier anyway). The AW4 changed in 1996/1997, so you might run into compatibility issues with the trans computer if you are swapping a newer into older or vice-versa.
 
Splines changed mid-year 1989, and electronics change with OBD-II, I'm fairly sure (which makes that for the 1996 model year.)

Um - hang onto the old one for a bit? I'm probably going to be running that way later this summer, and I'd not mind picking up a spare? Just a thought...

I'd change the front pump seal and the output seal, as well as dropping the pan and cleaning off the magnet in there as well, just to make sure there won't be any contamination. Check the screen - once that's done, I don't see any need to drop the pan unless you note a lot of contamination in the drained fluid (I'll usually put a magnet in a coffee filter in the drian pan, and see if they catch anything...)

5-90
 
Both vehicles are 94 cherokee sports(thank god). BTW are the bolts on the top of the bell housing difficult to access, and what size are they? I'll hang on to the old tranny if you want it, ill just toss it in my shop.
 
First step, disconnect the negative battery cable. Then drain the transmission fluid. Remove front and rear driveshafts. Disconnect all cables and wires running to both the t-case and tranny. This includes NSS, speed sensor, cooling lines, shift linkage, etc.. Remove the dipstick. Decide if you are going to pull the transmission and t-case while they are still bolted together(somewhat bulky) or remove them seperately(adds 15 minutes to removal and install time). Remove torque converter to flexplate bolts. Support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the cross member. Remove bolts holding the bellhousing to the motor, not forgetting those two pesky E12's on the top.

Good luck
 
I removed one today from a junkyard on laying gravel ( my back is killing me!)
it was not a bad job at all. Hit all the bolts you can with wd40. You will need to drop the exhuast down pipe. It took me about an hour and a half and I know I will be able to do it in half that time now that I know what to do. If you need any specifics send me a PM.

BTW you will need a mix of metric and standard tools.
metric... 8mm and up
standard....1/2" and up ( I think I used a 3/8 12pt for the top two bolts.)
 
Thanks for the help guys, I'm having a mechanic buddy give me a hand but he doesnt have the e 12 inverted torx. He said we can try a 3/8 12 point like 95xj said. Hopefully it dont strip out. How well did it fit 95xj?
 
The 12-point socket doesn't fit...use the E-12 and then replace those bolts with regular hex-heads. Somewhere around here I have the bolt sizes; I know I posted it in here last fall but I have no idea right now what size will fit once they're out.

Use PB Blaster; it's actually a penetrant. WD-40 displaces water but doesn't really loosen bolts. I never completed my writeup for pulling my tranny, but Stu has a lot of the same steps needed in his AX-15 --> AW-4 swap. http://stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-1.htm Page 11 is where he starts getting into the meat of the swap.
 
Nope don't do the 12 point socket
Click to expand...
Heed this advice. Nothing worse than a stripped reverse torx head bolt you can barely reach and can't see. Don't ask me how I know, but a Dremel cutting wheel is a handy tool it such a spot.
When reinstalling tranny you can suspend it at the right height by wrapping heavy duty nylon strap around it and a 2X4 over the shifter opening. Then use two bolts with heads cut off for guide pins to line it up and just swing it into position.
 
About the external Torx bolts:

I'm not trying to encourage bad habits, and by all means, it's definitely better to have the proper tool.

BUT ... I used a 10-mm 12-point box end wrench on mine which worked very well, when I put in the new motor. I have a 4.0 bolted to an AX-15.
 
whurston said:
I just found out this donor transmission is out of a 93 jeep grand cherokee limited, mine is a 94 cherokke sport. Will it fit?
Click to expand...

The electronics and TCU should be the same. The TCU shouldn't need to be swapped and I'm pretty sure you can just unplug the old tranny wiring at the connectors up on the firewall and plug in the new harness wires. You'll need to verify that the spline counts on the output shaft are the same - I'm somewhat sure they will be. The 93 ddn't change too much from a regular XJ.
 
whurston said:
I just found out this donor transmission is out of a 93 jeep grand cherokee limited, mine is a 94 cherokke sport. Will it fit?
Click to expand...
Depends if it is an AW-4, or not. ZJ's did come with AW-4's behind the 4.0's, but only in 93. I'm not shure if all 93's had them, or it was changed midyear sometime. I would double check to make shure it's not a 42RE.
 
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