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flat top knuckles: price range?

Ghost

Member Number 257
NAXJA Member
What price range should I expect to pay for a set? $100? $150? Or more?
 
Also, i saw a 8 lug chevy axle out there and it looked as if it had a flat top on one side. Is that knuckle useable on a ford D44?
 
Ghost said:
Also, i saw a 8 lug chevy axle out there and it looked as if it had a flat top on one side. Is that knuckle useable on a ford D44?
All Chevys will have a flat top on the driver side. That's where the Chevy steering arm mounted to. Finding the passenger side is more difficult.

The Chevy 44 knuckle (and Wagoneer too) will both bolt onto a Ford 44.

Price stuff is somebody else's question to answer. It's been a while since I was in the 44 market.
 
just got a set for 75 no ball joints and pass side has not been drilled or machined. i have heard of people getting them for around 100 with new balljoints and pass side ready to go. also make sure you get the disk brake version not the drum.
 
ok was wondering bc I just saw a set machined and tapped with the arms go for 225 on ebay and i thought that was a little bit high!
 
91 Jeep Project said:
They were going for $150 a pair, no joints, not tapped, about a year ago. Not sure on the current pricing.

Kool ty Ill keep that in mind while im looking and bidding on ebay if i dont find any localy....
 
I found my knuckles at a junkyard for $15. A shop charged $65 per side to machine, drill, and tap em.

So the pair (minus BJ's) cost me almost $150.

-jm
 
HTeK said:
I found my knuckles at a junkyard for $15. A shop charged $65 per side to machine, drill, and tap em.

So the pair (minus BJ's) cost me almost $150.

-jm

the yards arround here will not seperate axles. and charge arround 400 - 500 per....
 
$225 for a set of knuckles with arms and hardware is not a bad price. There are some differences in arms though. Not all arms are drilled to accept a drag link so you would be forced to run a "T" style steering setup. Also most arms on e-bay are not drilled to accept TRE's so if you want to run TREs you will have to pay extra for the tapered holes. Some arms are also machined on an angle to reduce the angle that the drag link must work at.

Make sure you know what you need before you buy.
 
Sweet! Next irem up for bid! I need to find some spiindles and caliper brackets, from what I read I need the cheavy small bearing spindles and the cheavy caliper bracket. Is that right?
 
Ghost said:
Sweet! Next irem up for bid! I need to find some spiindles and caliper brackets, from what I read I need the cheavy small bearing spindles and the cheavy caliper bracket. Is that right?

yup and a chevy calpier...
 
fyi, the only difference between the disc and drum knuckle is the clocking for the studs for the backing plate/spindle (only affects the backing plate) i redrilled my backing plate, and the drum knuckles work fine
 
sorry to hijack.
can you bolt the stock ford spindle and brakes to the chevy knuckles or do you need the chevy small bearing spindle and chevy brakes with ford hub.
what's the difference?
 
bj-666 said:
sorry to hijack.
can you bolt the stock ford spindle and brakes to the chevy knuckles or do you need the chevy small bearing spindle and chevy brakes with ford hub.
what's the difference?
No like teal said the reason for the pot luck of parts is to get high steer and 5 on 5.5 lug pattern...
 
What year dodge stuff?
 
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