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Optima Battery Woes on 96XJ

troutcommando

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grass Valley, CA
Over the last 10 years I have experience a number of strange electrical issues starting with the original stock battery not being properly charged due to a bad battery temperature sensor of all things.

The temp sensor sends a voltage to the CPM which in turn regulates the voltage and current on the alternator and is supposed to prolong battery life.

I replaced the sensor and the stock battery with a red top Optima battery which seemed to work pretty well although the check engine light would come on frequently and would clear it self or if I disconnected the battery for a length of time the fault lamp would also clear. I also experienced a number of anomalies during start up such as rough engine idle, hesitation, and backfire and restarting or revving the engine would typically clear the issue.

I have gone through three Optima red tops over the last 10 years (the first battery failed (open with zero voltage) and Optima replaced at no charge). I had to replace the third Optima about a month ago due to leaving a dome light on while the jeep sat at an airport parking for three weeks…stupid me!

I replaced the Optima Red top with a cheap $35 conventional lead acid battery from a near by Wal-Mart and now all of the strange computer/fault lamp/starting issues experienced over the years have now cleared up...go figure!

I have noticed the analog voltage measured during cranking of the Optima was typically lower than a typical conventional lead acid battery.

Also, a fully charged the lead acid batteries will measure 14 volts at full charge where as the Optima typically measures around 13.4 to 13.6 volts.

Has anyone experienced any similar results using Optima Red Top batteries?

I have checked the system ground wires and have replaced the batter cables with heavy duty cables years ago with no improvement while running an Optima battery…
 
Nope. I've got two Red Tops in service in Daily Drivers, and I can honestly say that the only difficulty I've had with them was needing to replace them after being reactivated for any length of time - my wife wouldn't start and run my truck once a week like I'd asked her to. Apart from that - no trouble at all.

Granted, they're in RENIX rigs (pre-OBD - simpler systems,) but I don't see why the Optima should be at issue with OBD-I/II. I don't recall hearing any other heavily negative reports from the field, either. I'll have to watch this thread to see if any come out...

5-90
 
Thanks for the reply. Nice site!

I am still not sure why the cheapo lead acid battery is funtioning better than the Optima...I have had very good luck with the Optima's I have used over the years and there was no warranty problems in replacing the first one which for what ever reason failed in an open circuit condition.

I have another Optima red top in my 70 jeepster so I gues I will take some critcal voltage measuremnents at various engine sensors with the lead acid battery and then compare with the Optima battery and see if there is anything to my theory about the half volt difference. Who knows maybe I have a flakey ECM with a voltage regulator which is sensitive to input voltage ranges during operation and cranking.
 
Recently had a similar problem with my '98....
Purchased an Optima Series 34 (1000 CCA) almost 6 years ago.... and it recently died due to constant drain caused by my onboard air compressor.
Installed a NEW Optima Series 34 and within 3 weeks the battery was showing signs of going bad.... Had a problem convincing 4 WPW salesman that the battery was BAD. He said that 11.5V was within the manufacturers specifications.... Had to contact Optima customer service before 4WPW would warranty the battery.

Almost 1 year ago I fabricated new battery cables using 2 ga fine strand with fusion battery clamps. Recently upgraded the positive cables going from the battery to the fuse block and from the fuse block to the alternator with 4 ga fine strand and soldered connectors.... Between the two fuse block terminals I installed a 125A wafer fuse as a fusible link.
When the Jeep is first started... the voltage is 14.0 and as the engine warms up... the voltage slowly drops to 13.6. With a digital multimeter reading battery voltage and alternator voltage... when a load is applied (electric fan, condensor fan, low beams & hi beams) the voltage dips slightly and comes back to 13.6. Looking to upgrade alternator to either 130 or 150A in the future....
I have a 540 CCA lead acid battery that is over 5 years old and has been sitting for 3 months on a block of wood. Its voltage stays at a constant 12.55V....
After these upgrades the charging system appears to be working the way it should....., but when operated with a lead acid battery.... the voltage is .2-.3V higher..... Must be something with the chemistry in those Optimas that causes the voltage to be lower than lead acid batteries.

Charles
 
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I have not had very good luck with Optima batteries either.
There sold mail order and all the online jeep sites carry them for one reason.
They are the only kind that can be shipped to you.
If you need to turn them on they'er side you can't beat them, but other that that they'er just not worth the money.
 
Vertigospiral88,

Sorry.... Should have been a little clearer with my explanation...
The 12.55V I was talking about was with the battery sitting on a block of wood was not used for 3 months....
When I installed the battery in the Jeep and ran it for a while.... The system voltage after the vehicle warmed up was 13.8-13.9V with the lead acide vs the Optima which was 13.6V.

Charles
 
XgeekstarX said:
my optima is about two years old and it hasn't given me any problems at all.
I got 1 going on 3 yrs but it is the exception, the trick is a battery disconnect switch.
They hold a good charge as long as the computer and stuff don't run them down.
The also are good in fire trucks, but those also have a battery switch.
 
The chemistry of Optima batteries doesn't like to accept charge over 128* (study in a sailing magazine from '99). As a battery distributor, I've seen plenty cause weird faults for just that reason.

Essentially, the battery stops accepting a charge at 128*, even though it needs one. This causes charging faults on the XJ's and things start to blink, and the computer acts strange, because it somehow thinks the battery is bad and is pumping amps into it.

Over time, the battery becomes starved of charge and sulfates. This reduces the active material for the chemical reaction for CCA's (starting power) and gives you a "dead" battery, and is usually triggered by something small, like a dome light left on.
 
I am having a similar problem on my '01. I put in a red top 34/78 two months ago, last saturday the jeep wouldn't start. Jumped it and ran it 45 mins, wouldn't start again. Charged the battery last night but the charger didn't indicate the battery took a charge, put the battery in the jeep and it just barely started and wouldn't stay running unless I was revving the engine. The voltage indicator on my fash was at ~14V, so I assume my alternator was not the cause. I didn't leave any lights on or anything....I am going to bring the battery back to the store tonight or tomorrow to try to warranty it.....any advice?
 
I have been running an Optima Yellow top for 5 years. No problems still works fine. This is in a 96. I wonder if the charging problem exists with the yellow top. Maybe the yellow top is the way to go. I won mine in a raffle so I didn't pay for it. It has done great for a free battery.

BA
 
Optima or any Absorbed Glass Mat batteries are very sensitive to charging and jumpstarting. To high of charging will destroy them very quickly. If the Battery is run low and charged off the alternator it can do harm, more likely then if you had the typical lead acid battery. I don't know the numbers, but there are many tech write ups about AGM batteries

ANY PERSON WHO OWNS, OR PLANS TO OWN AN (AGM) BATTERY SHOULD RESEARCH THEM FIRST. THEY ARE FAR SUPERIOR WHEN USED CORRECTLY.

Gene MJ

And Keep in Mind:

NEVER TRUST A DASH BOARD GAGE, ESPECIALLY BATTERY VOLTAGE

12.60v is a 100% charged battery
12.40v is a 70% charge
12.20v is a 50%
12.00v is a 25%
 
Gene MJ said:
Optima or any Absorbed Glass Mat batteries are very sensitive to charging and jumpstarting. To high of charging will destroy them very quickly. If the Battery is run low and charged off the alternator it can do harm, more likely then if you had the typical lead acid battery. I don't know the numbers, but there are many tech write ups about AGM batteries

ANY PERSON WHO OWNS, OR PLANS TO OWN AN (AGM) BATTERY SHOULD RESEARCH THEM FIRST. THEY ARE FAR SUPERIOR WHEN USED CORRECTLY.

Gene MJ

And Keep in Mind:

NEVER TRUST A DASH BOARD GAGE, ESPECIALLY BATTERY VOLTAGE

12.60v is a 100% charged battery
12.40v is a 70% charge
12.20v is a 50%
12.00v is a 25%
Yep it's not that they are bad batteries it's the fault of the people selling them for the wrong reasons.
Like I said AGM battries are sold online and mail order only because it's the only type that can be shipped UPS.
Standard batteries can only be shipped dry and you can't ship the Acid.
 
Ah, I get it now, that makes more sense :) !

CharlesS said:
Vertigospiral88,

Sorry.... Should have been a little clearer with my explanation...
The 12.55V I was talking about was with the battery sitting on a block of wood was not used for 3 months....
When I installed the battery in the Jeep and ran it for a while.... The system voltage after the vehicle warmed up was 13.8-13.9V with the lead acide vs the Optima which was 13.6V.

Charles
 
Wow! Great responses to my origional post and an excellent explanation on AGM batteries and why I have experienced the type of strange problems over the last 9 years. The cheapo WallMart battery seems to work just fine however I will replace it with an Interstate or a high quality Exide type of battery.

No more Optima red tops for this XJ. Too many electrical, ECM, and charging problems for the price of the battery which appears to possibly not be the most optimal battery solution in at least my 96XJ.

Best regards,

Mike
 
Ridr said:
when you get around to replacing the cheapie lead acid battery , install an interstate battery and be done with it.

Also, The Costco (Kirkland Signature) battery is an Interstate in disguise for less$$. The last one I bought (for my BMW) lasted 4 years. Actually it still worked, but if I let the car sit for more than 4 or 5 days I would have to jump start it. (If I drove it every day it was fine)
 
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