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will a 91+ AW4 run properly with a 89 AW4 computer?

NO a 91 is a HO and has a whole bew computer system!

stoney
 
I read on a post here once that a guy was running an 88 with 96 computer.....the trans and engine use seperate and different computers one for the trans and one for the engine.....for all years the xj was produced...so the HO should have little to no effect on the trans
 
Stoney, you got some proof to back that up or are you posting spobi?

Brian, I've got a 300 that I'm trying to put in my junk too. I'm contemplating making the spline adaptor and a clocking ring to match up the lengths.
 
whoops my bad! yea they'll work together! sorry read the post wrong!

stoney
 
ONETONXJ you are thinking of making a spline adapter to go from 21 to 23..... I now a few companies have a clocking ring that will work with the 23 spline application...AA dont even make a unit for the 21

check this out

clock ring
 
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Yeah, I've seen those. With doing an adaptor, it's going to put an extra inch or so in there. If I went this route, I'd have to make a thicker clocking ring. I was looking at my 300 last night and realized that it has the texas bolt pattern :doh: At least it has the short mainshaft though.
 
so your adapter will have to go from a 21 to 23 spline as well as 6 bolt to 5 bolt texas.....that sounds like fun....you know I do have a 21 to 23 spline KluneV sitting here for the MJ crawler project.....HMMMMMMM

How would you cut the internal splines for the 21 side....and use about what a 2" dia 4130 rod to cut from..or cut down an existing input from a 231 maybe and cut the 23 on the other side?

So you are gonna make a Jack shaft and adapter....you gonna support the center with a bearing
 
Novak and Advance don't do a center support on their adaptors for the 700r-300 so I don't consider it to be an issue. I'm not sure what diameter of material to use until I pull the tranny off and see what it can take. As far as cutting internal splines, I'll either have it EDM'd or broached. I considered cutting an input but I think the shafts are hardened which means I either have to have the splines rolled or ground. Neither of those are a cheap or needed option IMHO.

I may see if I can find the 6 bolt stock adapter off someones busted up 300. Otherwise I'll make one. I'm not going to make an adapter to go 6-5 bolt. It'll be 6 bolt all the way. I'll just make it out of 7075.
 
Do you have a 231 sittin' there also? Measure the OD of the input shaft and tell me its size with a set of micrometers, not calipers. There's no need to go figuring out a different seal in there. That'll get me started. I was yappin' with Dad about it at the dinner table and he seems to think that broaching is going to be the best approach unless I was to make 20 or more ( can you say $$$$$$$$$$$) I'll have a 231 and spare AW4 in appx. 1 month to work off of. That's when I was going to start dinkin' around with it.

To be honest though, for my needs the TF999 or rather the 32rh is going to be the better route for me. I assume you want to keep the OD of the AW4 for street use. I've been watching the posts on the various boards, it seems as though we are both trying to chase down the same obstacles right now.
 
I am cross checking dimensins between the 231 and kluneV for comparison, to help with tolerances.

the outside of the input shaft for the 231 is 49mm the Klune V is also 49mm, depth of input spline hole is 47mm on 231 and 48mm on Klunev. The length of input shaft to deck of 231 case (raised projection)is 16mm and 15mm on the KluneV.

The 231 adn Klune V both project a 124mm or 125mm dia into the rear of the AW4 for alignment. The overall dia of the mating surfaces...is 125mm on the 231 and 124mm on the KluneV..the projection of this area on the 231 is 7mm on the 231 and 6 mm on the KluneV.
 
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You do know you're dealing with an AMERICAN machinist right? :D I just love multiplying everything by 25.4 or whatever the hell it is.
 
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