How do I lean out oil passages to lifters?

How do I lean out oil passages to lifters? Please ,do not tell me to use any cleaners as I have driven 500 miles this week with 1 qt atf in to no effect. oil is only getting to last 2 cylinders. Sux pulling vc and manually lubing everything. I need to physically clean out the oil passages between the oil pump and the lifter gallery all pushrods are internally clean. I need to know where the gallery plugs are located. I am replacing the cam and lifters as they're part of the problem now. I've had no alternative but to drive all this week as I drive 80 - 100 miles a day for work, 20# idle, 40# 1500 ,hot oil pressure, 10w30 200deg eungine temp.
Thanks

Oil gallery plugs are nearly always on the back end of the engine block, inside the bellhousing. You can try pulling the timing cover and looking behind the cam gear, but I don't seem to recall anything being there offhand (but it has been a while...)

Oddly enough, I've usually found rifle brushes (the phosphor bronze ones) to work well when cleaning oil passages - pull the plug, check the bore size, and get the nearest calibre larger bronze brush. Get one of those "bore lights" while you're at it - the little flahslight with the right-angle Lucite rod - since that will make it easier to inspect your handiwork.

If your galleries are that crapped up, you'll want to tear the engine down when you clean them anyhow, since it's just going to migrate, and probably end up in a bearing...

5-90

At least I got a inteligent answer, but not complete, from someome this time. Thanks

500 miles on 1qt of ATF isn't really that much. Now had you said 6qt's ATF ran for 10 mins that'd be different. However, the problem that would arise with internal cleaners is they usually lead to clumps in the bottom of the pan. If the engine is that bad, I'd be weary of the gunk and sludge clogging up the bottom of the pickup screen (which I've seen happen on a few badly sludged engines).

As far as cleaning the pushrods and what not, you can clean the oil gallery's, but it's still not going to clean the middle of the pushrod like you want. The only way that I know to totally 100% clean them is to take them out and run a wire through the center. If you're doing a cam and lifters, you can do it then.....

I do the best I can - I just don't happen to have a 4.0 torn to bits that I can go out and look at...

5-90

I had the same problem only no oiling on the top side. I found this problem after I bought the xj, (cheap I might add). pushrod was thru the rocker. I fixed the rocker and then drained the oil and filled the engine completely full of kerosene. all the way up to where the pushrods come thru. let it sit 2 days and turned the engine over a few times with the plug wires off just to agitate the kerosene thru the pump. drained it, new filter and refilled with oil. nada, still no oiling on top.
pulled the head degreased/pressure washed the gunk off. took my shop vac and taped a piece of fuel line on the end of the vac hose and sucked out the junk all around the lifters. pulled all the lifters and every one was froze up. put them in a vise just to get them broke loose (trashed em). replaced with new lifters re-assembled, fired it up and she oiled up in just a few seconds. I have only ran it about 30 miles since the repair. waiting on my aluminum expansion tank and then I will be driving it to work a few days a week.
I plan on running that engine cleaner when I start driving it regularly.

The lifters are usually responsible for no top lubing, PIA to have to pull the head to replace them too. Sometimes if it's still lubing a bit you can do the kero, atf or seafoam in the oil trick but the seafoam would be the only one I'd drive it with. Problem usually shows up or starts to show up when it's cold started and one of two lifters are noisy, then they slowly fill up, quiet down and start moving oil. I think if I was going to try it without tearing down I'd fill the engine with kero and atf, pull the dist, put a rod down on an electric motor and let it spin the oil pump up for an hour or two and see what happens. Then if it started moving oil again I'd drop the pan and clean the pan out...

Yeah I got the HEEP dirt cheap $900 (my Turbo Caravan started dying on the road and tranny fried same day 40k milesfor $700) ran a little rough when I bought it, but needed wheels NOW, Limited, Leather, power, 153k, 89 2 rust spots, 1/4 inch bump lower drivers windsheild, 3/8 spot back top by hatch, super clean underneth,rockers,doors! Orlando Florida originally, bought in Ft Lauderdale. Engine now runs super smooth AND quiet, pulling motor next weekend as I won a New .430 lift Mopar cam and lifters on Ebay for $51.00 yesterday, sorry if you bid. Still pulling vc to manually oil ra's valves and pushrods as I NEED to drive 80-100miles a day for work! buying a Caravan tomorrow for work. Thanks for your input, but still would like to know where lifter oil galley plugs are before I pull the motor!