Gradual cleaning with limited Synthetic

89 XJ 4.0 AW4 4WD. I have been wondering about helping get tid of someof the buildup in my engine using synthetic. I know it has a high detergent quality. I also know that if used entirely, one has to change the filter and oil at least once or twice within a couple of thousand miles. What about taking a gradual route by simply exchanging one quart of synthetic for a quart of dino oil for a couple of oil changes? I am not worried about leaking seals. I have replaced all the ones that can leak (rear main, valve cover, oil filter adapter, oil pan).
Thanks
BSD

BSD said:

. I also know that if used entirely, one has to change the filter and oil at least once or twice within a couple of thousand miles. BSD

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what are you talking about.

just switch if you engine is that badly gunked up such that you need to change a filter that quick you have other problems.

second why wiould you need to chaing oil and filter. if you are really worried chang th filter only and add another quart

scooterfrog said:

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what are you talking about.
just switch if you engine is that badly gunked up such that you need to change a filter that quick you have other problems.
second why wiould you need to chaing oil and filter. if you are really worried chang th filter only and add another quart

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First, if you do a search, you see some people who switch over to synthetics express extra caution about a clogged filter due to the highly detergent nature of synthetics. My concern was based upon the previous posts by others. Here is a link for the first result on a search I did for example. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62912&highlight=switching+synthetic
Second, if you recall, I have already done some of the major cleaning by dropping the oil pan and removing the valve cover. However, there are parts I can not get to.
Third, I would think you would need to change the oil to remove suspended particles not trapped by the filter.

I bought my XJ used and am simply wanting to give it some TLC to ensure maximum longevity and performance. I thought encouraging the removal of buildup in the engine might encourage longer life.
BSD

Do a web search for AUTORX. Read their literature. It is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen and will not dislodge large particles inside the engine to foul up your main bearings......my 90 xj has over 300k and going strong.....

You can do the mix of 2 quarts syn and 4 quarts organic and it will clean it out over time. Go by the dipstick, when you can't read the hash marks thru the oil it's time to change the filter. If the filter gets plugged up the bypass kicks in and the oil is no longer filtered. When we got our two 97TJ's with 100,000+ miles on them I just did the switch to 100% syn, no issues in the last two years. The other option is a bit quicker, get a professionl flush done on the machine, takes about a half hour of idling but does get alot of stuff out but you still have to watch the oil filter afterwards as the chemical in the machine does soak in to the sludge and continues breaking it down over the next few days. Then just run 100% syn if thats your goal.

Do a web search for AUTORX. Read their literature. It is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen and will not dislodge large particles inside the engine to foul up your main bearings......my 90 xj has over 300k and going strong.....
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I have an 89 that I inherited. I have NEVER seen oil as bad as the stuff I drained out of this thing. I started with a 20/80mix of synth/dino to hopefully gradually clean the engine.

I have read a lot of AutoRX on Bobtheoilguy.com but I'm still leery about droping the cash for it.
Did you use it? What improvements or changes did you notice? I have borescoped my cycliders and the valves as well as everything else look pretty bad. I'm not burinig oil so I don';t think there's much blowby as of yet.

Thanks

I've used it on the 90 xj and on my 88 MJ, it is actually an ester that works like a soap with oil, that's why it doesn't crap us the engine bearings, the cleaning takes 1500 miles and is slow and gentle. No harsh solvents......i did notice an oil pressure drop with the MJ and I figured that it had loosened a bunch of junk and clogged the filter, so i changed the filter and the pressure came right back.....proves to me that it is working.
I've had great results with it, improved mileage, better acceleration, lower levels of valve train noise, less smoke......nothing but good so far. the 90 xj had around 185K on it when I used the AutoRx and has gone to 300k since then, my MJ has around 170K.
Look at some of the photos in Bobistheoilguy.....very impressive.

Synthetic Motor Oil is 100% COMPATIBLE with Conventional Motor Oil. There is no need to "gradually blend it into the Motor". Just change the oil and filter, no problems switching back if you so decide, or mix it and make your own blend.

I've never heard of Synthetic Oil having a "Hi-Detergeant" Nature. Synthetic oil has far less additives than Conventional Oil (because it doesn't need them to get the desired performance), have no refining by-products or left over crude oil elements (like Parafin), as well as the nature of the Synthetic Base Stock, Synthetic Oil is FAR LESS LIKELY TO LEAVE BEHIND DEPOSITS AND SLUDGE. If your motor is dirty and sludged, yea Synthetic will probably clean it up some, and over time, a lot. Conventional Motor Oil does the same, but its creating new sludge and deposits as it cleans the old sludge and deposits out. So Synthetic Oil will get you further along in the game. Synthetic oil itself is NOT going to scrub the inside of your motor clean in a matter of miles, it will just NOT deposit more crud and sludge, as it cleans off the old crud and sludge over time, like all motor oil is designed to do.

If your motor is so dirty and sludged, you should be looking at fixing the root cause and not keep treating the symptoms.

*Is your CCV/PCV system working properly?
*Is your Crankcase breather system working properly?
*How do you drive the car, only 5 mile trips?
*What does a Compression Check Show?
*What kind of oil/filter and change interval have you've been using before this?

Remember, Most Synthetic Oils flow much easier than conventional, as well the molecure is engineered to be "POLAR", this is normally a positive attribute, but if you motor seals are leaking, those attributes can make the seals leak a little more. Most people rarely find a leaking problem when the switch over to synthetic, but it is possible. For me, when I did it in an old motor, the motor went to being just a little more wet around the pan, no dripping.

BTW, Castrol Syntec (Despite what it says on the bottle) is not "TRUE SYNTHETIC" as most people think of it. They are not the only manufacturer using a Conventional Oil Base Stock, putting it thru a Hydro-Carbon Cracking Process and ultra refining, and then calling their very refined and high quality conventional oil, SYNTHETIC OIL. I "THINK" Pennzoil does the same, but don't know for sure. Make sure the Synthetic Oil you buy is PAO Base Stock, there are also some POE base stock snythetics as well. I use Mobil1, which is PAO Base Stock.