how hard to change the master (clutch)

i just did the clutch, slave, ect...

now it seems that the master is leaking inside the cab (over hte fuse pannel) little drips.

so...how hard is it to change?

lol...my $100 jeep is getting expensive...lol

not difficult. The bugger is the one nut you have to get at under the dash. Sucks standing on your head trying to get a nut onto a bolt. Having a helper to hold the bolt is great, I didn't have one and just wedged a wrench in there to hold it. Not perfect, but it worked.
Anyway. I'm pretty sure the bolts/nuts were 13MM. Hook up the hydraulic hose before you tighten the mounting bolts al the way. I left mine quite loose and it made it much easier to hook up the flare fitting. Took me about 2 hours, including bleeding the system. I had never done it before.

Easy to change on an '88--remove the pressure line, mounting bolts and remove the master cylinder. Fill the new cylinder with brake fluid and pump a few times to remove most air. Install in reverse order; hook up line to slave cylinder and bleed just like you would for brakes. There should be a bleed screw on the line coming out of the bell housing. A very important next step is to thoroughly clean the old brake fluid off of the fuse box and all connections. I'd recommend pulling all fuses, relays, etc, out of the fuse box and liberally spray the box with "brakleen". Insure the contacts are cleaned as well. Follow up with a good electrical contact cleaner spray to keep contacts from corroding. Brake fluid eats plastic and will eventually destroy your fuse box, so make sure you clean it well.

I highly recommend upgrading to the 97 and later dual diaphragm booster. It requires some modification of the control rod, but it will dramatically improve your braking.