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Yet another 242 SYE question...

C

CRCs Reality

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Kensington, PA
OK, I've been searching threads for a few days on this and have yet to see a definative answer.
I have a 99 Cherokee sport, 242 TC and AW4. I'm running a 2" lift, but no SYE right now. I'm starting to get some vibes and a bit of growling noise, which goes away with the slip-yoke freshly lubed with anti-seize (only goes away for a month or so), but I know that's just a band-aid and I need a SYE.

What I'd like to do, as I only do some mild wheeling, is a Hack-and-tap and use a front driveshaft on the rear. The question is, will a front fit my 99, as I only have 2" lift and not the 3.5 to 4 I usually see with those running a front on the rear?
Also, what is needed to convert a stock front shaft for use in the rear with a SYE?

Any input would be appreciated, I'm trying to get all the parts together to maybe do this next weekend.
 
I dont now where the need for lift came from as the front shaft will always be shorter than "perfect" no matter what combination of gearbox and axle, ( the only two things that matter and change the length as 242 and 231 are the same in length )? You must have a auto and a 8.25 or D44 to "get away" with running a front driveshaft from a XJ that had a auto. It will still be around 2" shorter than "perfect" so the more lift you have the worse this combination becomes. I am mentioning "perfect" as many do run the front shaft without any long term effects it seems.
 
Thanks, that sounds more hopefull.. I never saw anyone say there was a 'need' for 3-4 inches, only I hadn't seen anyone with only 2 do it.

Will I need to change anything on a stock front to use it on the rear with a SYE, or should it just bolt up?
 
If you use a RE HnT then you need an adapter to put on the flange. That will accept the CV shaft. It is a part # something like 229x. That isn't it, but it is in several post on this subject. Just search for it. If I was more computer literate I would give you the link.
 
With only 2 inches I'd try a one inch t case drop first, might cure it. If you don't like the cheap drops you could get one of the aftermarket crossmembers that drops it with no loss of ground clearance.

Randy
 
Randy_66 said:
With only 2 inches I'd try a one inch t case drop first, might cure it. If you don't like the cheap drops you could get one of the aftermarket crossmembers that drops it with no loss of ground clearance.

Randy
Click to expand...


I agree I am at 6.5 inches with a 1" t-case drop. I have no rear drive shaft vibes at all. I do, however have front drive shaft vibes. When you drop the t-case you increase the front drive shaft angles. The vibes aren't too bad, nothing that I can't live with. The t-case drop is much cheaper and easier to do, you can even make your own. At 2" I think a t-case drop would be the best bet. One thing you have to remember about this is EVERY JEEP IS DIFFERENT What works for mine at 6.5" may not even work for yours at 2". Most people can't get away with just a t-case drop at 6" I'm just lucky. If you choose the t-case drop check your slip yoke spline engagement to make sure that you don't need the extended yoke or the off set U joint from Tom Woods.
 
Just so you know CRC, I have the same set up as you except it's a 2000. Same drive line. I did a BB that gave me 2.5 in the back. I had vibes. It is also true that every Jeep is different like has been said, but very few late models are lucky enogh not to get vibes. Mine were not that bad, but still didn't want them. I couldn't afford a new shaft and was going to be modifying later so I did the 1" TC drop. Made the spacers myself. $20. Did not eliminate vibes, but they were better. It solved the problem temporarily, and now, a year later, I'm doing the SYE and new shaft. Point is a TC drop will help (and it's only ~$20), but if you have your lift and want to do the SYE, that will solve the problem, without the drawbacks of a TC drop.
 
Well, I did the 2" about 1.5 years ago, and had only minor vibes. I almost did the SYE then, but it wasn't bad. I'm looking at this now as I've been developing more vibes and a pretty solid grinding noise from the rear end (best I can tell, from play in the slip yoke). I thought about the TC drop, as well as an aftermarket crossmember, but the SYE just seems like the best solution all around. If my slip yoke is wearing out, the TC drop won't help much, but the SYE should fix the problem for good.

I'm just trying to make sure I do my homework first, this is my DD, and I'll be doing this over a weekend and need to drive it to work on Monday morning, so I need the parts to do it right. My biggest concern is that the front driveshaft isn't too long.. As long as that's OK, I think this should work out just fine :)
 
Check your forward drive shaft U joint. When you increase the angles by lifting the vehicle the U joints wear out faster. I have to do mine about once a year (love the life time warranty) I haven't heard of a slip yoke wearing out...yet...

Neil
 
Nope, I've pulled the front and the problem is still there.. But thanks :)

Thanks for the input all, I'm gathering parts now for the weekend, I appreciate all the info.
 
Just to update..
Did the H&T last night.. prepped the junkyard shaft last weekend (didn't have the H&T kit yet). And I just wanted to say thanks for all the help and info, it worked great, and eliminated the mild vibes I was getting as well as the grinding noise that has plagued me. Easy install and the front shaft works fine with only 2" of lift.
Thanks again all :)
 
Glad to hear it. I've the exact same setup/problems. What was your final cost, if you don't mind me asking (H&T and prop. shaft)?
 
Well..

H&T from PORC - $100
Front DS from a junkyard - $60
New spicer flange from a local drivetrain shop - $55
new Ujoints - $45

So, I spent a total of $260 for everything, probably could have spent less if I shopped around for the driveshaft, or picked up the flange used. It worked great though :greensmok
 
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