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Removing Adhesive from OHC

BIGSLVRXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
So tonight I took down my overhead console because the material was sagging. I dismantled the whole thing and got the old material off but the adhesive they used is killer to get off. What should I use? I've tried that citrus power adhesive remover, fingernail polish remover, sandpaper. What else should I be trying? Gasoline? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Collin
 
Stiff brush, very stiff brush..
 
RichP said:
Stiff brush, very stiff brush..
And if that doesn't work....? I did try it, thanks for the suggestion by the way Rich, it just didn't pull all of it off.
 
As far as removing the adhesive goes as long as you have all the foam off and the adhesive is the only thing left I would not worry about it. Personally I don't use adhesive when I do headliners, I use buttons. Those brass ones that are sold in stationary stores, the kind the split, I put them thru the material, insulation, headliner backer board then put a washer over the backside, bend the legs out then fold them back in so they can't pull back out. I also paint them to either match or contrast with the headliner material. If it is really fancy I'll take some material to a local upholstery shop and have them make a bunch up with the real two piece buttons which have a cap and base and go in a small press, for $2 ea... [expensive], the brass one's come in boxes of 100 for $3, can of rusteolum and 5 min of spraying...done.
As far as the edges go, I fold the material over and around the back of the backer board then double fold it, put the button thru and that will hold it forever.
 
RichP said:
As far as removing the adhesive goes as long as you have all the foam off and the adhesive is the only thing left I would not worry about it. Personally I don't use adhesive when I do headliners, I use buttons. Those brass ones that are sold in stationary stores, the kind the split, I put them thru the material, insulation, headliner backer board then put a washer over the backside, bend the legs out then fold them back in so they can't pull back out. I also paint them to either match or contrast with the headliner material. If it is really fancy I'll take some material to a local upholstery shop and have them make a bunch up with the real two piece buttons which have a cap and base and go in a small press, for $2 ea... [expensive], the brass one's come in boxes of 100 for $3, can of rusteolum and 5 min of spraying...done.
As far as the edges go, I fold the material over and around the back of the backer board then double fold it, put the button thru and that will hold it forever.
Thank you that gives me some ideas.
 
Collin,

Have you seen my famous Headliner fix?

http://homepage.mac.com/johnvito/PhotoAlbum37.html

If I had to do it again I would add fiberglass fabric for extra strength and smoother surface.

I used a wire brush to take off the old glue. It's best to tilt the headliner so the old glue falls off onto the ground as you are wire brushing. Seems like if it's wire brushed with the surface up it just moves the old glue around and doesn't take it off.
 
Re: Johnny V- what year soundbar?

4xBob said:
I see you have a rear soundbar in your 1989 XJ- what year did it come from? The fit looks pretty good, and I would like one for my 1990.
Not sure if you're talking to me or not. My XJ is a 1990 and I got one from a 96. It fits perfect.
 
it'd be nice if the glue adhered to the fabric just as well huh? i'm having the same problem in my 90
 
Re: Johnny V- what year soundbar?

4xBob said:
I see you have a rear soundbar in your 1989 XJ- what year did it come from? The fit looks pretty good, and I would like one for my 1990.

The soundbar was purchased off eBay last year. It was new in box for about $75.00. The seller mentioned it was for a '95 but not because of fit but for the gray color did not match any gray from '89...but to tell you the truth there are so many different shades of gray in my Jeep's interior that the soundbar matches one of them.

The soundbar was fairly easy install with hardware for the dome light and prewired sound harness connectors. Fit is perfect.

Moving the speakers from the hatch to the soundbar increased sound quality for sure. Also sound quality is more consistent since junk isn’t in the way like the hatch speakers always had.
 
We're getting way off topic now but I noticed the sunroof in your pic too. Is that aftermarket or factory?
 
It's factory. A couple of years ago it started leaking and recently I inquired about a new seal for it...$180.00...no thanks.

So I just siliconed it shut...no more leaks.

Don't think I would own a car without a sunroof just for the fact that it lets in light and brightens up the interior.
 
Last edited:
Johnny V said:
It's factory. A couple of years ago it started leaking and recently I inquired about a new seal for it...$180.00...no thanks.

So I just siliconed it shut...no more leaks.

Don't think I would own a car without a sunroof just for the fact that it lets in light and brightens up the interior.
Yeah I really like the way that looks. I'd ditch my OHC for it almost.
 
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