Was trying to purchase an electrical fan for my electric fan conversion and I keep having second thoughts about the brand and sizes. I know there are some write ups on them out there and I was wondering, how have these held up? Anyone who has done this mod have any specific fan they used that has been great? Any fans I should stay away from? Thanks. Also, what CFM should I be looking for?
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aftermarket electric fans
- Thread starter 53guy
- Start date
gcurtis
Shirley Temple was a nug.
- Location
- Long since gone.
53guy said:
Man, Pandora's box just opened and I wish she'd keep it closed.
I have electric fans on a '99 4.0 to facilitate an OBA system. I skipped the controller and wired directly to where my stock aux fan plugged in. My fans work great.
I have a CSF 3 row radiator and two Flex-a-lite 210 fans with shroud hard wired. The shroud is crucial and the Flexalite hangs a bit below the core support. I took some sheet metal and created a dam to block the overhang so that all suction was coming through the radiator.
As for your other question, I think it was on Dino's site (I could be wrong) where 2000 cfm was what you were looking for. My Flexalites run about 2400 cfm when they are both on at full strength.
SCW
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SLC (yuck) UT
Let me know when you find a fan with over 1500 cfm that will fit (under 3 inches).
gcurtis
Shirley Temple was a nug.
- Location
- Long since gone.
53guy said:
About an inch and I did no trimming on any motor components. The Flexalite 210's are considered their "trimline" and are built for small areas.
From Summit Racing's site:
"Flex-a-lite low-profile electric fans have the lowest profile available, yet flow up to 2,500 cfm. They have lightweight nylon shrouds with full-contact rubber seals, and some even offer several choices of shroud color. There's also an optional, adjustable thermostat and air conditioning relay, as well as a manual override switch to shut down the fan for mud racing or water crossings. A wiring diagram and installation instructions in English, Spanish, and French are included."
You never know when you'll need French directions...
Also, Spal makes some thin and higher CFM electic fans for hot rods and custom cars that would work, again, just make sure you have a good shroud.
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gcurtis
Shirley Temple was a nug.
- Location
- Long since gone.
53guy said:
The 210's are two fans. The 110 is the single fan version that pulls the lower numbers.
=) yeah, saw that too late, after i got all excited about it. http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/low_profile.html really thin, but CFM isn't too great. How critical is it to have CFM's in the 2000+ range? What does the stock electric fan put out?
- Location
- Thornton, CO
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...8&N=400434+4294838842+4294901060&autoview=sku
Someone on here has that setup in their XJ. I wish I could find the pics, it's a very clean setup.
Someone on here has that setup in their XJ. I wish I could find the pics, it's a very clean setup.
http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/0356-0357.pdf Seems to be a good choice, cheap too. Still searching for higer CFM in other brands though. Seems no one can beat the 2.05" thickness with that fan.
91 Jeep Project said:
WOW, 3.19" and 4000 cfm....Who's got that set up?! We know you're out there! Speak up!
Also see http://store.summitracing.com/defau...8&N=400434+4294838842+4294901060&autoview=sku single fan version of it with 1900cfm
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- Location
- Thornton, CO
MachineMan here on the board.
Oatmeal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cedar City, UT
How about this: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoElectricFan.htm .........Hans
SCW
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SLC (yuck) UT
Oatmeal said:
The problem with this and many other write-ups is that the entire pully idler must be removed and the bracket cut off, then the belt re-routed. It's definatley a one-way street.
I have had such a hard time finding what I want that I may lean to that in the future, I've been running with just the one little E-fan for about 2 weeks now but as soon as the weather warms up some I'll have to do something.
Hopefully we can get MachineMan to post his method, It doesn't look from the listed depth of the fans that the bracket will need to be removed, but I'd like to hear it from someone that is running that fan set-up. Looks like a GREAT set-up to me.
MachineMan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Jose, CA
Hi, That Dual Derale fan set-up is mine. It totals 4000cfm and works great. However its dificult to fit and pulls a lot of amps. I had to trim the plastic shroud it came with a lot to fit, especially near the sterring box. I notched the top to fit over the radiator top plate. Vertically it cover the entire radiator plus about an inch or so more. Horizontally it comes up a bit short but that works out becuase I needed the room on the steering box side.
Each fan will need it own relay a 10ga power wire directly to the battery becuase the amp draw is so high. I kept blowing fuses when the fans kicked on until I put a 40amp in there. Those 40amp fuse are hard to find. Running draw is probably around 20amp or so but it won't stay on that long unless your righ has other overheating issues.
Each fan will need it own relay a 10ga power wire directly to the battery becuase the amp draw is so high. I kept blowing fuses when the fans kicked on until I put a 40amp in there. Those 40amp fuse are hard to find. Running draw is probably around 20amp or so but it won't stay on that long unless your righ has other overheating issues.
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
gcurtis said:
My write-up is on http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/electric.html but I don't know where the 2000cfm figure came from (might have been me).
My rule of thumb is a minimum of flywheel HP output x 10 in combined cfm for both fans e.g. 190hp -> 1900cfm to maintain adequate airflow at low road speeds. The stock auxiliary electric fan is 11" in diameter and should be pulling something like 1000-1200cfm. If you have a stock 4.0, a second ~1000cfm electric fan (e.g. Flexalite 110) will do but it'll be marginal. If you have a stroker, you need something bigger (at least 14" diameter) but you can also install a 14" fan even if you have a stock 4.0 to give yourself a wider safety margin. If you go crazy with the fan size (or cfm), you might find the amp draw's too high and need a higher output alternator to prevent it from draining the battery.
There's a whole host of electric fans for sale in e-bay so choose one that'll fit in the available space (not thicker than 3.25"). I used a slimline 14" fan and mounted it to the stock fan shroud. It pulls ~1800cfm and works great in conjunction with my newer style curved blade auxiliary fan.
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53guy said:
I think you mean in parallel...? I have the 110 and the stock fan hooked up together like that and no problems for almost 1 year. From my experience, the 110 definitely can't do it alone with the stock aux fan going on at the stock set temp. That's probably why the 110 has such a bad rep on various boards. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably go with the 210.
Here are some install pics...
Yes, and also used a grinder to shorten the shaft to the height of the hex cap screws. I got the idea from someone here after this happened...53guy said:
Under hard acceleration, the engine wiggled just enough to push the fan into the radiator. The other pic shows that I changed the spacers holding the FAL motor heat shield to washers to gain even more room for safety.