Front Suspension FAQ

Can anyone point me to an FAQ for the XJ Front Suspension? I've got a lot of Noob Questions. I'm strictly interested in restoring STOCK Suspension to good working order, NO MODS.

Although I'm a very proficient amaeture mechanic, never owning Jeep/Truck before, there are several terms that confuse me. As well, some of the worn part that I'm considering replacing, are different enough from Sedans/Coupes/Mini-Vans that I need some advice on how to approach it.

If your willing to appease me, the following questions.

1. Track Bar - It appears the Ball Joint in the end of the Track Bar is NOT press in/out. Does the entire Track Bar need to be replaced OR is there a way to replace just the Ball Joint. Are the alternatives as effective (longevity and performance) as replacing the entire bar?

2. Center Link - (Term? - The Link between the Pitman arm and one Steering Knuckle, also has the Tie-Rod and Damper attached to it.) It also appears the Ball Joint is NOT press in/out. Are there alternative like the Track Bar?

3. Front Alignment - Toe adjustment is Apparent. What about Camber and Caster? Do you twist the entire axle by adjusting the control arms for Camber? Do you use off center ball joints? OR are the off center ball joints just for crash damage? Do you just bolt it all up and check caster/camber in tolerance?

4. Ball Joint, Steering Knuckle - This is 2WD BTW, even with the 2WD axle, it doesn't look like you can lift the end of it into an arbor press. Do you really need special C-Clamp tool are can you get away with a big Sockets and a big regular C-Clamp?

5. Front Wheel Bearings - This is 2WD BTW, it appears the same steering knuckles are used as 4WD. I've seen diagrams of Front Wheel Bearings that are typical RWD cars, wheels bearings in the Brake Rotor. But looking at the actual back of the steering knuckle it "looks" like the 4WD hub/wheel bearing is bolted into the steering knuckle with the splined opening capped off. Am I just looking at the back of an adapter, that bolts to the steering knuckle and provides a shaft for the wheel bearings in the brake rotor, or is it an actual 4WD hub and bearing?

6. Shocks & Steering Damper - Any suggestions for low cost option that provides good street handling and ride, basically OEM setup or a little better for the street?

Rick Anderson said:

1. Track Bar - It appears the Ball Joint in the end of the Track Bar is NOT press in/out. Does the entire Track Bar need to be replaced OR is there a way to replace just the Ball Joint. Are the alternatives as effective (longevity and performance) as replacing the entire bar?

Click to expand...

Yup, you gotta replace the whole thing.

2. Center Link - (Term? - The Link between the Pitman arm and one Steering Knuckle, also has the Tie-Rod and Damper attached to it.) It also appears the Ball Joint is NOT press in/out. Are there alternative like the Track Bar?

Click to expand...

Draglink is two pieces: short TRE and the long TRE.

4. Ball Joint, Steering Knuckle - This is 2WD BTW, even with the 2WD axle, it doesn't look like you can lift the end of it into an arbor press. Do you really need special C-Clamp tool are can you get away with a big Sockets and a big regular C-Clamp?

Click to expand...

Get the clamp from Harbor Freight: makes your life a lot easier.

5. Front Wheel Bearings - This is 2WD BTW, it appears the same steering knuckles are used as 4WD. I've seen diagrams of Front Wheel Bearings that are typical RWD cars, wheels bearings in the Brake Rotor. But looking at the actual back of the steering knuckle it "looks" like the 4WD hub/wheel bearing is bolted into the steering knuckle with the splined opening capped off. Am I just looking at the back of an adapter, that bolts to the steering knuckle and provides a shaft for the wheel bearings in the brake rotor, or is it an actual 4WD hub and bearing?

Click to expand...

AFAIK it's a same hub and the only difference is the "stub" that's bolted in. You can't run the hub by itself: you need that funky stub to hold it together.

Also try looking here.

So the Drag Link, the Long TRE must be replaced in its entirety, like the track bar? I thought the same thing, except thats an awful long TRE with attachments points inbetween, you'd think they put a replaceable ball joint on the end instead of getting a whole new bar. I'm assuming its not cheap.

I haven't looked hard, but the 1st price I saw was $120 for a Track Bar, any sources to get it discount?

Rick Anderson said:

So the Drag Link, the Long TRE must be replaced in its entirety, like the track bar? I thought the same thing, except thats an awful long TRE with attachments points inbetween, you'd think they put a replaceable ball joint on the end instead of getting a whole new bar. I'm assuming its not cheap.

I haven't looked hard, but the 1st price I saw was $120 for a Track Bar, any sources to get it discount?

Click to expand...

which side on the drag link is bad? the wheel side or the steering box side? The steering box side has a short TRE and the wheel has the the long side. Replace one or the other or both based on needs.

for the removing/installing the balljoints, don't get the tool from harbor freight. it can stretch and then it won't line up properly. go rent one from autozone, and you'll get your money back when you return it.

one thing i did get from harbor freight was a master balljoint install kit. it comes with all the adapters for different vehicles, to get the new balljoints to line up properly. i had a hell of a time getting the new one in until i got that kit. you can do without, but this made it alot easier. or see if somebody in your area has one they could let you borrow or help you with.

Kejtar said:

which side on the drag link is bad? the wheel side or the steering box side?

Click to expand...

I just got the vehicle and it has 201k miles on it. I've only done a "Visual" inspection and all the ball joints "LOOK" bad (all dust shields torn, half of them the entire dust shield is completely gone with just some of the base left behind, dirt in the grease, etc), I'll be putting it up on JackStands soon and do the push/pull tests and look for actual play.

Any advice on doing that test?

Driving the vehicle, at the very least the shocks are worn out, turning around in my driveway which is a steep hill, I get a tiny bit of unexpected motion in the front end, almost like the tires suddenly tilted (that could be alignment or bad ball joints, TRE).

In a Month the vehicle will have to have safety inspection. I'm in Maryland, and they only do a safety inspection when the vehicle is sold/purchased. The checklist is very vague, so basically the mechanic can be pretty subjective as to passing and failing parts. BUT, by law he has to allow you to fix it yourself (if you want) and re-inspect for free. So for someone like me, that says he'll fix it himself, there is no incentive to fail things uneccessarily.

I figure, since the replacement of any one ball joint or bushing will require a Front End Alignment; and it is very likely the remaining will need to be replaced soon after, I would just be repeating the process several times.

I'm guessing it would be cheaper and easier in the long run to just bite the bullet and do a whole front suspension rebuild at once. Sounds like that gets expensive with a jeep, especially compared to smaller cars with only a couple of bushings and small TRE.

Rick Anderson said:

I haven't looked hard, but the 1st price I saw was $120 for a Track Bar, any sources to get it discount?

Click to expand...

www.quadratec.com has one for about $60 or so.

It's not MOPAR, but then again the MOPAR one is a POS too.

www.4wd.com also has them.