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Found an 8.8 what to grab while there???

G

grand94jeepxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Asheboro, NC
I found an 8.8 just 5 miles from my house for $300. Its out of an 01 explorer has 3.73 gears (gonna regear to 4.56) and disk brakes and the limited slip. Anything else I need to get off this vehicle for my swap?

Not buying today, but possibly tomorrow afternoon. My plan is to run this 8.8 (locked or not) in my 90 xj with 33" or 34" swampers and upgrade my D30 with the new 30 spline OX locker up front. This vehicle will see a fair amount of trails and is not a daily driver. Any ideas? I know, I know search..I went 27 pages deep into this forum and didn'y get the answers I needed. And suggestions appreciated.
 
u bolts and spring pads if they're still available. other than that, everything else should be able to swap between your xj and the 8.8. just make sure ya got everything from the lug nuts to the lug nuts, and if the yoke flange is still attached grab that too.
 
did u guys never have a problem with the pinion offset to passenger side i know i know i should search but just wondering if this offset affects that much
 
You'll get a litle vibration if you are using a CV shaft. Only really noticable if you run a linked rear or a hard-mounted traction bar. Both transmit energy to the passenger compartment more effectively than leafs.
 
ChristmasXJ said:
did u guys never have a problem with the pinion offset to passenger side i know i know i should search but just wondering if this offset affects that much
Click to expand...

Hasn't had any effect on mine. Good luck with the swap.
 
ChristmasXJ said:
did u guys never have a problem with the pinion offset to passenger side i know i know i should search but just wondering if this offset affects that much
Click to expand...

I had minor issues. My exhaust hanger hit that big lip on the 8.8 pinion when I hit a real big bump in the road. I just flipped the muffler over so the outlet was closer to the outside of the jeep. Inlet was in the center, outlet was offset to one side. Very minor, $20 at the muffler shop, and your good. I wasn't a fan of reusing ubolts. I purchased new. I also made my own spring plates, incorperating bumpstops in them. I suggest anti-wrap perches too. I purchased mine from Great Lake Offroad. I had some minor issuses with GLOR, but their perches were worth it. Very beefy. Another note: When welding on shock mounts, make sure that you will have enough clearance for the ubolts to go where they need to go. I speak from experience.

HTH
 
Okay, the lady at the junkyard had no idea what she was doing.

I found a 97 on the lot with 4.10 gears and the LS for $300+tax. I may be going to pick this up tomorrow. The axles did not have calipers, but I can ask if they'll let them go with the axle. I measured 54.5" from axle end to end (inside heat shield) on the '01. I assume its the same for the '97.

Now I have a question for those running 33's. Is the 4.10 gear enough to crawl with in low range? I had planned on running 4.56-4.88's but if the 4.10 are enough I can save money for the OX lockers I want. FYI, OX emailed me back and said a prototype is in the works for the 8.8 and will debut in Spring (hopefully). Thanks.
 
4.10 in your differential is great, but what transfer case are you running? If you have 4.10 with an Atlas then it's more than enough... 4.10 with a stock geared 231 may not be for your tastes. Also depending on how into looks you are with your jeep, you may want to contact spidertrax or an equivalent maker and pick up a set of wheel spacers. 5/8 on each side turns into about 1 1/4 total and it is noticable. Some run different wheels front and rear, but I've found that's a pain when rotating tires.
 
I found a crawl ratio calc and punched in some numbers...I think I'll be going with 4.88's. The 4.10 will do fine in the rear while I've driving back and forth to the fab shop. Won't be shifting into 4wd anytime soon. :D

I can't afford a decent 4:1 case or a $2,000 Atlas (although the 5:1 case is tempting). This XJ won't see much mud use, only rocks so I want the best crawl ratio I can get (cheaply, for now) Thanks for the answers, any other ideas?

I'm not modding the engine so I'll keep low hp/tq numbers. Just gonna gear deep and keep it light.
 
Are you running 33s with an auto tranny or a 5 speed? What motor do you have?

I run 4.10s in an 8.8 with the stock transfercase ratio and a 5 speed manual. I also have a 4.6 L stroker. It was fine before with the 4.0L but I did notice a difference when crawling in low with the extra torque the stroker makes. It does just fine out on the east coast type of wheeling with slick mud covered rocks. Power and wheel speed are needed so my setup works for me.

AARON
 
I'm running the I-6 with 5-speed. Renix (POS). You're from Charlotte so you know what I'm building for. Uwharrie is no problem, I can build for it, but I wanna hit Tellico soon. I'm keeping the motor stock for reliability and the power numbers low so breakage isn't much of a concern. I don't need a high power motor to keep up :wierd:
 
Find a wrecked Rubi and pull the Tcase... i'm on the lookup for one myself up here.
 
don't know if ya got the axle or not yet but you might want the ds flange off the exploder ds. try to push for the calipers even if ya go buy remaned ones ya still get a core charge.
 
bj-666 said:
you might want the ds flange off the exploder ds. try to push for the calipers even if ya go buy remaned ones ya still get a core charge.
Click to expand...
good call
 
thanks for the advice guys. Would it benefit me to get the entire drive shaft from the Explorer? I need a new one. The old one has gone missing. I think I left it at my old shop and it has been junked by the new owner.
I plan on getting a SYE for my T-case. So I figure I'll need a new shaft anyways.

I think I read you can buy a 241J outright. Does it have the SYE type rear output? If so, does anyone know what a 241J might cost? No wrecked Rubi's around here yet.
 
for 300 bones, PUSH HARD for a complete axle. It's the nickel and dime stuff that will send your budget to hell. I'd recommend:
Perches
U-Bolt Plates
U-Bolts
ALL brake hardware discs, calipers, Ebrake cables and hardware
Brake lines(don't let them cut 'em off)
BOTH flange adapters.

The 8.8 is longer than the 35/44/8.25 so you will need a new length rear DS if doing a SYE (a front shaft was too long for me) Take a look around the yard for something compatible.

Good Luck!

John
 
Thanks for all the answers guys. I found a rear Dana 44. I search www.car-part.com and found one axle in Raleigh, NC. Drove about 2 hours to inspect it, paid for it yesterday and had it delivered today less than 5 min from my house for free. The guy "happened" to be delivering to my town. Got the axle, yoke, brakes, and e-brake cables for $374 Total. :yelclap: :yelclap: :yelclap:
 
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