ARGH!!! bar pin removal

I'm getting to ready to do a BB this weekend. I have some slighty used BilStein HD shocks (pn B46-1046 rear, and pn B46-1798 front) that I want to use. I also have some RR BPE's ready to go.

So, it should be a simple thing to remove the bar bin and replace it with the metal bushing, right? I've tried pressing, I've tried hammering with a socket, I've tried twisting, I've tried heat gun, I've tried hot water. I haven't yet ruined the rubber bushing, but I'm pretty close.

There HAS to be a trick to this and I haven't figured it out yet. Have you? Yes, I searched!

Take a grinder to one side and cut the ears off the bar pin, then push/pull it out. Be carefull with the grinder not to slip and cut the cylinder, melt the bushing, or take off some fingers.

A grinder. Now there's a new thought. I sure wouldn't have thought it'd be that drastic.

thanks!

Put it in a vise and press it out using a deep socket on the one side for the BP to press into.

You will likely want longer shocks too.... if the weather was permitting, Id put mine on. I got some economy shocks ($16 ea front, $22 ea rear) that are like what is suggested on the RockLizard site. Ill have pictures and a writeup.

With my Tereflex 2" lift, the rear is being held in place with the shocks, I beleive they are fully extended and are limiting the drop of the axle. Ill know more when I get them changed.

Good luck,
Andrew

Don't the BPE's lower (or raise, in the front) the shock mounting point at least a little bit? In other words, I know it's not more travel but, the shock is effectively longer because the BPE is added to the length of the shock.

Or am I thinking about this incorrectly?

You are right. The BPE's should effectively add about 1" to the length of the shock. Regarding getting rid of the bar pin, I used a dremel with a little cut off wheel. It was a little more precise (less likely to lose a finger) than the grinder.