Comanche clutch problem

I am new to this. I have searched the forums for this problem but I have not seen this. I had to replace my trans, the BA10. I also replaced the internal slave cylinder, hose, and master cylinder. I bleed the clutch, it works fine for a while then it's gone. The pedal grabs right off the floor and it is difficult to put into gear. Pumping the cylinder gets it into gear, barely. This is supposed to be my commuter Jeep, but now it sits in the driveway. Should I start over replacing cylinders? Any help would be helpful. I hope I didn't miss the answer for this somewhere on these forums. This Jeep needs to be driven. Thanks.

Sounds like for some reason air is getting back into there. I loosen the line and let the pressure off then use a bicycle pump on the master cyl lid to force fluid/air out.

I had a 89 XJ with the BA210. The clutch line going to the internal slave had rubbed against the bellhousing, and developed a pin hole leak. Eventually got worse, and had to have the line replaced.

Your symptoms sound familiar.


Erik

Make sure you are not losing fluid from the system. If you are, check the line from master to slave cylinder and the fixtures for leaks, then both cylinders. If there is no fluid loss, bleed the system thouroughly with a helper on the pedal and someone at the bleeder nipple. Sure you put the clutch pedal assembly back together right?

Thanks for the ideas. Everything is new. Master, slave, and hose. There is no fluid loss. If I bleed it, I get a good pedal, just enough to get most of the way to work, 25 miles. I had someone fill the reservoir while I let the fluid run out. Closed the bleeder and had a great pedal. After it happened again I replaced the bleeder. Same thing. Could the clutch itself be no good? I am thinking about that. What clutch kit would be recommended? OEM or aftermarket? I really need to get this on the road.

Thanks again, Ken.

most people round here seem to agree that the OEM clutch is great at what it does.
I had to do a master cylinder and hose on mine, two words: Vacuum bleeder.
I built my own contraption using a brake bleeder jar and an electric vacuum pump. I suppose one of those hand ones would work OK. I had many problems with my clutch after repairing it, hooked up the vacuum bleeder, ran about 16 Oz of fluid throgh it as fast as it can and I've not had a problem since. That was a few thousand miles ago.

Thanks for the tip. I have problems with the brakes on my 89 and I have heard about vacuum bleeding. Do you have any info on these bleeders? Is it a NAPA tool or should I track down the snap-on guy?

I am going to start changing parts.

I am starting with the master cylinder.

That would be the easiest.

If that does not work. The trans is coming out. Any opinions on the clutch choice? Factory or Center Force?

Thanks, Ken

Update. I fixed it on Saturday. When I pulled the trans, I noticed the slave cylinder mounting pin to the trans fell out and broke. The cylinder was just flopping around. Put another brand new slave cylinder in, put it all back together, bled the clutch, and it works great. I guess when they say do not re-use the retainer, I will follow the directions. This is the best it has ever been. Kinda like having a brand new Jeep, to me.

Good to hear it was a happy ending! Lots of guys/gals never get back with the final verdict and so we never find out what the problem was.
Jeep on!
--Pete

ComancheClub.com

Yeah - there's a reason that damn cylinder/bearing assembly tends to come with a retainer ring...

As far as the vacuum bleeder, you should be able to get it as a kit with a hand vacuum pump just about anywhere (I've seen them at most locals, NAPA, and Sears,) for $30-40. The jar is a little small, but once you see how it goes together, you can cobble something larger together. As far as me goes, I've got a son who works at a hardware store, and he's gotten me a couple helium tanks (that would hold a good gallon of fluid.) I've got a line on 12VDC electric vacuum pumps, and that would make for a superior bleeder, y'ask me. I just haven't gotten around to it.

I'd also cover the hydraulic line with some corrugate loom (the stuff used on electrical wires) just for extra protection, but that's just me. I got my 88 and had a look underneath, and grabbed a bit of that stuff that I happened to have on the shelf. I've replaced the loom twice now (along with the transmission - damn Peugeot gearbox!) but I haven't had to replace any of the upper hydraulics - just the bearing/cylinder assembly. I can't wait to get rid of that, either...

5-90

I use a bicycle pump on a reservoir lid I modified for clutch bleeding. Works pretty decent.

I have bled this clutch several times before, hoping not having to pull the trans. What worked for me was gravity bleeding. Hit the crack pipe, I mean crack open the bleeder,and while someone is keeping the reservoir full, let it run. If you have trouble getting fluid, open the bleeder, hit the pedal, close it. (the bleeder) Repeat. Once or twice should do it. Then open it up, keep that reservoir full, and wait for the steady flow. You can see the air being driven out. Once you have nothing but fluid, nice clean fluid, after all the old stuff is in your drain pan, (do not do this on the ground as it leaves trouble),

*** SECTION 07 - SPILL OR LEAK PROCEDURES ***
STEPS TO BE TAKEN IF MATERIAL IS RELEASED OR SPILLED:
PREVENT GROUNDWATER CONTAMINATION. ELIMINATE ALL IGNITION SOURCES (FLAMES,HOT SURFACES AND ELECTRICAL, STATIC OR FRICTIONAL SPARKS). ABSORB ON AN INERT MATERIAL. SHOVEL INTO STORAGE CONTAINERS. AVOID BREATHING VAPORS.
VENTILATE AREA.
WASTE DISPOSAL METHODS:
DISPOSE OF IN A MANNER CONSISTENT WITH STATE, PROVINCIAL, LOCAL, AND FEDERAL REGULATIONS.

Close the bleeder and you should be ready to go. Hope this helps.