just a quick question. I'm not wanting to pull the carrier or the cover for that matter, but I was wondering if I can pull the yoke and the seal, replace the seal and put the yoke back on? Or is it more complicated than that? I have a seal leak and I'm pretty sure just the seal is bad. The guy who installed it put it in on accident before he needed to and had to punch it back out. So I am wondering if I can just replace the seal without pulling a bunch of stuff. Thanks.
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d30 pinion seal replacement
- Thread starter 53guy
- Start date
ccflexj
NAXJA Forum User
i did the same thing and all i did was pull the yoke off and pull the seal and put the new one on..hasnt leaked since
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
:scared:ccflexj said:
Also, the mechanic at that shop said it was leaking cause my vent tube was clogged.....can that be why? I think he's full of it and when he pulled it out, he messed it up, but that's just me.
ccflexj---awesome, hope I can do the same. I want to put a bead of RTV around the seal when I put it back in, kinda to add a bit of protection to keep it from leaking.
xjranger----that's a scary face, lol, what was that for? good? bad?
What about a crush sleeve? Whatever that is for, is it ruined when I break torque on the yoke? I talked to the guy at the shop and he was saying it is a 10 minute job to replace that seal, and the only way it would be a 10 minute job would be to just pull the yoke and replace the seal. So if that was the case, I could just do it myself. Is this correct?
ccflexj---awesome, hope I can do the same. I want to put a bead of RTV around the seal when I put it back in, kinda to add a bit of protection to keep it from leaking.
xjranger----that's a scary face, lol, what was that for? good? bad?
What about a crush sleeve? Whatever that is for, is it ruined when I break torque on the yoke? I talked to the guy at the shop and he was saying it is a 10 minute job to replace that seal, and the only way it would be a 10 minute job would be to just pull the yoke and replace the seal. So if that was the case, I could just do it myself. Is this correct?
bj-666
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
STOP:
got your attention.:laugh3:
if it's a low pinion d30 it has a crush sleeve which means you have to set the pinion preload if ya want to change the seal which means pulling the carier and... the cover.
on a shimed pinion the preload is set and all ya gotta do is retorque the pinion nut to the correct value.
soo.. sorry to say but i think your gonna have to dive into that axle a little.
couple things to think about you say that someone did something wrong with the seal install. what was it? is it the rubber lip of the seal leaking or is it leakign between the housing and the seal.
got your attention.:laugh3:
if it's a low pinion d30 it has a crush sleeve which means you have to set the pinion preload if ya want to change the seal which means pulling the carier and... the cover.
on a shimed pinion the preload is set and all ya gotta do is retorque the pinion nut to the correct value.
soo.. sorry to say but i think your gonna have to dive into that axle a little.
couple things to think about you say that someone did something wrong with the seal install. what was it? is it the rubber lip of the seal leaking or is it leakign between the housing and the seal.
Jeepsterboy101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ramona (San Diego), CA
If the shop messed up why dont you have them fix it?
bj-666 said:
Not a LP, its a HP D30 out of a 99 xj. So I'm assuming that it is a shimmed pinion because he the mechanic put shims on and the yoke is on the upper half of the diff. As far as the seal goes, it is leaking from between the housing and the seal, not the rubber part on the yoke.
The reason I want to do it myself is becuase I work all the time and the shop is 2 hours away and its my dd with no back up car. lol, so I pretty much have to be there while they do it, so if I can do it I'd rather do it by myself.
bj-666
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
if it's shimed all ya need is a torque wrench and a few hand tools. very easy job.
but if it were me i would if the seal is not totaly deformed i would try to tap smartly around the perimiter of the seal to try to seat it better. i've reinstalled pinion seals in a bind, and as a matter of fact it's still in there today with no probs.
but if it were me i would if the seal is not totaly deformed i would try to tap smartly around the perimiter of the seal to try to seat it better. i've reinstalled pinion seals in a bind, and as a matter of fact it's still in there today with no probs.
bj-666 said:
Well, it wouldn't be that big of a deal if it would seal when I tried to reseat it. I thought that trying to reseat it would help and when I did, it slowed to a smaller leak, but I'm just anal about leaks. What kinda torque is that pinion nut? I have a 200 ft/lb torque wrench, hopefully that works.
bj-666
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
just google d30 torque specs that should be enough to get ya something.
Rawbrown
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Encinitas, CA
Thats the one thing I don't use a torque wrench for. I use a big ass impact gun and giver hell! I think the spec is like 250lbft or something. but I don't like getting the torque wrench out and trying to position myself to apply enough force to tighten it down. at least pull the cover and let it drain. if its filled high enough then your going to have trouble getting a good seal when gear oil keeps seeping out.
