Yet another problem...brake lights

My brake lights stopped working but it's wierd, when I turn my head-lights on the tail-lights light up brightly as if I'm stepping on the brake pedal but when the lights are off no lights at all. The fuse is good but the hazzard flashers stopped working too. The only thing that I can think of is that my clutch master cylinder was leaking onto the fuse block but that doesn't explain the bright tail-lights, also the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder didn't leak onto anywhere near the brake/hazzard fuse...

Thanks for help, in advance
Zoro
90XJ

It's pretty common for the wires to break at the brake pedal switch. You can swap the hazard flasher with the turn signal one to see if the flasher is bad.


Mike R

Do you mean the 2-wire plug that connects to something at the top of the pedal? Also is this something I can fix with a junkyard part? I'm going tomorrow so I was wondering.

Zoro said:

My brake lights stopped working but it's wierd, when I turn my head-lights on the tail-lights light up brightly as if I'm stepping on the brake pedal but when the lights are off no lights at all. The fuse is good but the hazzard flashers stopped working too. The only thing that I can think of is that my clutch master cylinder was leaking onto the fuse block but that doesn't explain the bright tail-lights, also the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder didn't leak onto anywhere near the brake/hazzard fuse...

Thanks for help, in advance
Zoro
90XJ

Click to expand...

That's a classic example of a bad ground wire. Should be behind the spare tire panel.

langer1 said:

That's a classic example of a bad ground wire. Should be behind the spare tire panel.

Click to expand...

Ok, I've pulled the panel and I see several grounds on the metal that's right under the plastic of the spare tire panel and they're all nice and tight, so you're saying it's the wire itself?

Ditto that on the ground problem. Been there, done that.

I'll have to trace that ground in the morning, thanks for the help guys

Zoro said:

Do you mean the 2-wire plug that connects to something at the top of the pedal? Also is this something I can fix with a junkyard part? I'm going tomorrow so I was wondering.

Click to expand...

If it has cruise control there will be two 2 wire connectors. The early 84-90 used coarse wires that would break from flexing as the switch moved. The wires would need to be fixed or new terminals.


Mike R

If a ground "looks" or "feels" tight, that doesn't mean it's not dirty or corroded. When I suspect a ground, I'll TAKE IT APART and check it visually - and give it a pass with a brass toothbrush, AND replace the screw at the very least (I've also got a tendency to clean a spot around the screw hole to clean metal, and apply Ox-Gard when I reassemble - but I'm a picky S.O.B...)

You can replace the brake lamp switch with a boneyard part - but why? A new one will probably run you 10-15 bucks, and I don't trust anything electrical (Hell, I don't trust anything!) that I get from a salvage yard that I can't tear apart and clean or overhaul. Electrics just aren't worth the hassle to me - if I can get a used boneyard part with unknown history for $2, and I can get a brand-new in-box part from the factory (I didn't say which one - OEMR or aftermarket!) for $20 - I'll spend the extra dosh. Switches are usually pretty cheap, anyhow - I just replaced my ignition switch a few months ago in my 88, and it only ran me about $18 for a replacement part. (I get jobber from my parts house, due to sending them business and long association.)

If the connectors are shot, I seem to recall the switch having a set or two (depending on application) of quarter-inch quick-connect "spade" lugs on it - I've often fixed those by just clipping off the OEMR harness connector, crimping a couple female .250SQD connector on, and plugging them on by hand. As far as the wires go, the switch should not really move - if they're loose, look for something that your feet might hit, that would then hit the wire. Get it out of the way.

NOTE - if/when I crimp on a new lug to any "critical" circuit (lighting, grounds, and ignition especially,) I'll get a batch of small heat shrink as well. Ox-Gard the bare wire before you install it into the connector, crimp, and cover with a bit of heat shrink. Sure, it's extra work - but like I said earlier, I'm a picky S.O.B - and my wiring don't fail on its own (usually, feets are somehow involved. Or a sharp something, Or ...)

5-90

Mine's a 90 without cruise control so its only got the one 2-wire plug on the brake pedal.

Checked it out today, cleaned the grounds for the brake lights, then tried grounding it to the battery and the plug is good at the pedal and still no change....

I also am having brake light problems. I have a 1991 and the hazard lights and brakes lights are both not working. I first looked for a fuse, but where there is a HZ STOP (hazard stop) one on the fuse block of my 1989 there is only an open space on the one in a 1991. I have a badly corroded positive battery cable and am going to replace that and hope that helps.

Peter J. Ford

peterjford said:

I also am having brake light problems. I have a 1991 and the hazard lights and brakes lights are both not working. I first looked for a fuse, but where there is a HZ STOP (hazard stop) one on the fuse block of my 1989 there is only an open space on the one in a 1991. I have a badly corroded positive battery cable and am going to replace that and hope that helps.

Peter J. Ford

Click to expand...

Peter if you need help just stop by.


Mike R

Make sure the bulbs are in right. I have seen people force them in wrong and could cause the brake/parking lamps to work opposite.


Mike R

Thios sounds familiar... Try unpluging the mercury switch for your tailgate.its behind the panal and a round connector plug, Mine blew fuses everytime i touched the brake and it took out running lights ,the interior lights and park lights are all on the same circuit so also check for grounded or open wires, XJ's are common for eletrical issues. But when mine had a similar prob i traced to to a bad switch in the tailgate. Dont understand it but it worked by unpluging so,, maybe give it a shot.

josh89xj said:

Thios sounds familiar... Try unpluging the mercury switch for your tailgate.its behind the panal and a round connector plug, Mine blew fuses everytime i touched the brake and it took out running lights ,the interior lights and park lights are all on the same circuit so also check for grounded or open wires, XJ's are common for eletrical issues. But when mine had a similar prob i traced to to a bad switch in the tailgate. Dont understand it but it worked by unpluging so,, maybe give it a shot.

Click to expand...

Tried the grounds but they were ok to begin with and the connector at the pedal is good, so this switch is it behind the panel that the spare tire covers up or is it on the other side? Is it the electrical connector that the tail light wiring harness plugs into?

I tried the mercury switch connector but the original owner already had disconnected it, anybody else ever had this problem/know how to fix it?

I have no brake lights when the head-lights are off but when I turn them on I still have no brake-lights BUT the tail-lights are lit up brightly as iff they're on.

I'd pull the brake bulbs out and look at them carefully. The lead contacts in the bulb can mushroom and short across circuits. If they are in wrong that can cause what you describe. Also look in the socket and make sure the the contacts are oriented right (there is a tab to keep the plastic part from rotating out of place). Check for power at the brake switch and out while pressing it. Then check for power at the rear sockets. If you have power out of the brake switch but not at the rear sockets then pull the left kick panel off and look at the connections. There is one that the brake light wire goes through.


Mike R

dont mean to but in on anybody elses thread but I also have a brake light problem, actually i think i have an electrical problem on my whole passenger side. when I open my passenger side door (eaither front or rear) my rear running light lights up dimmly. Also when my passenger doors are open, my dome light gets dim if i press the brake pedel. my passenger side brake light and turn signal are far more dim than then the driver side. my passenger side turn signal works fine untill i press the break pedel then it flashes really fast like the bulb is dead. my passenger side reverse light works fine untill i press the break pedel and then it goes out. I thought it might be a bulb problem so I took all the bulbs out of the passenger side (front and rear) and put them on the driver side and nothing changed. i have no idea where to start......

little red cheroke said:

dont mean to but in on anybody elses thread but I also have a brake light problem, actually i think i have an electrical problem on my whole passenger side. when I open my passenger side door (eaither front or rear) my rear running light lights up dimmly. Also when my passenger doors are open, my dome light gets dim if i press the brake pedel. my passenger side brake light and turn signal are far more dim than then the driver side. my passenger side turn signal works fine untill i press the break pedel then it flashes really fast like the bulb is dead. my passenger side reverse light works fine untill i press the break pedel and then it goes out. I thought it might be a bulb problem so I took all the bulbs out of the passenger side (front and rear) and put them on the driver side and nothing changed. i have no idea where to start......

Click to expand...

What year & model?