242 Hd Sye?

From my searching there only seems to be two kits out there for a SYE to suit the early 95 and older 242's. That is the one from RE and is a hack and tap and the Tom Woods one which basically the same except he supplys a cut and taped shaft for you and you return you old one.
Have I missed any and no HD ones out there for me?

Gojeep said:

From my searching there only seems to be two kits out there for a SYE to suit the early 95 and older 242's. That is the one from RE and is a hack and tap and the Tom Woods one which basically the same except he supplys a cut and taped shaft for you and you return you old one.
Have I missed any and no HD ones out there for me?

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There are no kits out there. You can get one done but it won't be easy. It would require taking most the internals from a AMG(Hummer) 242. As well as sending the main shaft to Tom Woods to have cut and resplined. I have yet to see anyone do it, but in theory it would work.

Suck it up and buy the tom woods one....there really is no "cheaper" alternative.

Jeffro600 said:

Suck it up and buy the tom woods one....there really is no "cheaper" alternative.

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He wasn't looking for a cheaper alternative. He wanted to know if an HD one was made that he had missed somewhere. And considering who we are talking about here, the AMG swap is a very viable option for him if he can get ahold of that case.

Gojeep said:

From my searching there only seems to be two kits out there for a SYE to suit the early 95 and older 242's. That is the one from RE and is a hack and tap and the Tom Woods one which basically the same except he supplys a cut and taped shaft for you and you return you old one.
Have I missed any and no HD ones out there for me?

Click to expand...

Nope thats it for 242 SYEs. I'd go RE HnT.

PN One Ton on here he drove his with a SYE and 242 for years and he is not easy on drivetrain parts.

The alternative is to just find a 231 case and go that way. That's what I'm doing.

231 swap would be a waste considering the 242 is a stronger case if you take into consideration the torque specs. for example, the 242 is used in durangos and also military hummers.

the only advantage to the 231 is the availability of aftermarket parts, but i wouldnt trade the 242 for anything.

gojeep, i have a NP242AMG from a milspec hummer if you want it. shipping to australia would be high, but ill let you have it for free. its 32 spline input and 32 spline slip yoke.

-tim

If you can find a 242AMG, yes, it appears to be stronger. However a 231 built up with the hd 1.25" chain, and 241 planetary should be plenty strong, and easier to locate parts for. I've got a 242 non-hd in my 91 limited right now, and a 231 I gave 50 bucks for that's receiving all the HD stuff with the SYE. The NV page doesn't list the torque spec for the 231 with a 32 spline output, but I'd guess it's be somewhere between the 242HD and the 242AMG. http://www.newventuregear.com/tcases.html
I'd rather keep the 242, but for economical reasons, it's just cheaper to SYE the 231. So, free plus shipping eh?

Mark

ok, the numbering system for new process/new venture cases is as follows

the first number represents the ranges 2 being hi and lo

the second number represents the strength based on gross vehicle weight and torque.

the third number represents the differentiation. 1 is undifferentiated, 2 uses a differential, 9 uses a viscous coupling and there are a couple others with electronic diffs and such.

http://www.newventuregear.com/tcases.html

anyways. you either like full time or you dont, but i would guess that gojeep likes his, since hes still got it.

-tim

1. No need for an HD SYE in an aluminum clamshell case, it should crack way before the output shaft breaks.

2. I'd NEVER swap an 231 in over the 242, its not worth it. It would be more worth swapping a d44 in over an 8.25 than a 231 over 242.

3. The 242 (Jeep not AMC) is a tad bit weaker than the 231.

4. I can't tell you how many people have the RE HnT with zero issues. I use to be big on the HD SYE kits, but no that I have a 242 I know the RE SYE is good too.

5. When its pouring down rain I LOVE my fulltime 4wd.

amen. fulltime 4x4 is badass.

-tim

ZachMan said:

1. No need for an HD SYE in an aluminum clamshell case, it should crack way before the output shaft breaks.

2. I'd NEVER swap an 231 in over the 242, its not worth it. It would be more worth swapping a d44 in over an 8.25 than a 231 over 242.

3. The 242 (Jeep not AMC) is a tad bit weaker than the 231.

4. I can't tell you how many people have the RE HnT with zero issues. I use to be big on the HD SYE kits, but no that I have a 242 I know the RE SYE is good too.

5. When its pouring down rain I LOVE my fulltime 4wd.

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1. you can break the output before the case breaks. i believe bones did it on his 242 in moab.

2. i would....and I did....i was looking for a higher belly, the the 231 allowed me to do that

:wave:

IntrepidXJ said:

1. you can break the output before the case breaks. i believe bones did it on his 242 in moab.

2. i would....and I did....i was looking for a higher belly, the the 231 allowed me to do that

:wave:

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1. One person in how many? Its a smaaaaaall # I am sure. If mine breaks so be it I'll bolt in a 231...since they are easier to get ahold of.

2. Some would swap in an XJ d44 for an 8.25 too, so to each his own. I'd have to have alot of mods finished before I worried about an extra 1/2" of belly clearance.

Still though to me, its worth having the fulltime. Its nice to never spin off the line when its wet out.

well, the 242 guys arent gonna change the 231 guys' minds and vise versa

i have a 242 that needs rebuilding, and i could swap to a 231 much cheaper but no thanks, i would rather spend the money for the awd

the fulltime option is also nice when wheeling very rocky places such as moab where "slickrock" isnt very slick, so you dont wind up your transfer case.

-tim

jeepnuts311 said:

the fulltime option is also nice when wheeling very rocky places such as moab where "slickrock" isnt very slick, so you dont wind up your transfer case.

-tim

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I swapped out a 242 for a 231 and installed a Tera 2 Low. Much easier to run around the slickrock in 2wd low range than full-time 4wd. It's also easier when you don't have a selectable locker.

Marcus runs a Truetrac in the front and I contend that the choice is a toss-up.

A hack and tap keeps the strength from a 27 spline output. My understanding is that TW cuts and then re-splines the output shaft to 26 spline to accept the stock style front t-case output yoke. It would seem this might be your new weak link. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

For me, strength hasn't been an issue since I've never broken either one of them. My $0.02 cents.

Forgot if you want 4"1, yeah you'd definately want a 231.

As fot the T.W. evryone thta has it likes it, but the $$$ for it does not seem worth it to me.

I just read the link from NVG....I'm a little confused. Maybe Jeepnuts can explain this.

How can these compare?

231 lb/ft torque 1885 GVW 5920

242 lb/ft torque 1486 GVW 5500

242HD lb/ft torque 2340 GVW 11500

Seems to me a stronger case would allow for bigger numbers....or is there something missing here?

I just looked up the weight for a 2001 Limited XJ versus a 2001 H1 to make the comparison between the 231 and a 242HD. Since the XJ, fully loaded with every option is 3355 pounds versus the H1 at 7154, I would be more concerned about the Hummer having too little t-case strength. I only see a 24% increase in torque rating from the 231 to the 242HD versus a 113% increase in weight in vehicle.

Interesting debate...not a lot of practical application though. There's another $0.02.

John90XJ said:

My understanding is that TW cuts and then re-splines the output shaft to 26 splinea to accept the stock style front t-case output yoke. It would seem this might be your new weak link. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

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it still is 27 spline and uses a flange (not a yoke). had one on my 242

Thank you very much guys for your comments. The only problem I have with the Tom Woods ones is that there is a core charge of $400 ( depending which vendor ) and so out of pocket quite a bit longer and then have to post it all the way back to the states hoping it doesn't get lost and the expense of postage. Correct me if I am wrong but thought that that and a RE were similar except Tom cuts and drills the shaft for you? I quite capable of getting it nice and square and have had to repair somesone's RE one that was done by a Jeep shop who much a botch of it. Cutting it with the engine running I found the best way if not pulling it down to put in a lathe.
Has everyone had the problem of the fluid leaking past the splines ( not the seal ) after a while? Heard it was if you did not cut it dead flat and allows some movement and the splines to wear and Tom mentions something about it and why he cuts them for you. But know of someone with a Toms one that does it too? I used Permatex black last time on well cleaned splines on someones along with a large washer which pushes again the outside of the flange piece to stop the movement around the C clip. Holding so far but for how long I dont know yet?
No kits out there either I guess that use use the yoke end rather than a flange?