Keeping Lincoln ALIVE (Destuctive thinking 101)

(I decided to give this subject its own thread because I hacked another thread with it.)

(In theory) Lets just say that one had the capability to heat treat spider gears after welding them. If one did this, could the bond be as good as a lunchbox locker or spool?

If the above tactic couldn't work, how would one weld thier spiders so that lincoln would be dependable? Is this possible?

Being a cheapass among many cheapasses that some of us are. The best way to weld spiders would be good information to have under our belts in the event that we ever came across a situation where we HAD to weld. I know that this has been discussed before; however, the argument is usally Pro vs. Con where the fire of the battle causes constuctive information to be coverted to non information.

Im sure many would enjoy hearing both pro and con spider welders opinions about this subject including myself.

*{Question}*

Pro and Con spider welders:

Lets just imagine for a moment that you had to weld your spiders. How would you do it to make it last as long as possible. Are there any tricks up your sleeve that could aid in keeping lincoln alive.

or, you can weld a plate "into" them, and have it be as good as a spool

I am not sure that I understand this question entirely. You are correct in that welding the diff has been discussed many many times, including pro's and con's.

Maybe I am out of line here but here is how I look at it:

1. Welding can be a good option depending on the rig/use, etc.
2. Welding can be strong if done correctly with the right equip/temp/etc.
3. If you are going to weld them there are several articles you can search and find to understand different options on how to do them.
4. If you are not comfortable with the strength of welding your diff then you probably should not be doing it.

5. A welded diff can be a permanent/strong replacement for a spool if done well.

Just me thoughts,
Michael

weld them up, then weld plate into the sides, like this post: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=620432&highlight=weld#post620432

I don't understand the question but I have welded my old(R.I.P.)d35 and my new c8.25 both I did extensive searching and decided to heat the carrier and spidergears in the axle and then cut chunks of steal off a piece of rebar and weld them inbetween the spider gears then welded the gears to the carrier.

How they lasted
(1)d35 lasted a year with 31x12.50's Thorn turds.The day I went to 33x12.50's I blew a pinion shaft and ring gear.

(2)c8.25 has lasted around a year with 33x12.50 Tsl's,Truxs,SSR's swampers and 35x12.50 MT/R's,Truxs.Has had no problems and I have wheeled it hard.

If your going to do it heat first and then weld metel in between spiders and then to carrier.Do It right the first time and It will be hard as hell to break it.

I used a 220 stick wtih the amps up quite high and bsically used this pic for my how to guide


then affter finshing I cleaned it up with brakecleaner and a impact chisle..my
basically make sure you get ALL the slag out and clean it thorughly BEFORE and AFTER..,any slag that falls apart from the welds will lead to breakage ..


and definitly remove the carrier for this project

the piece of steel is a good idea but I didnt use one..
penetration is the key and cleaning ...

yes, cleaning is very important. I would still recommend a magnet somewhere in the axle (diff cover?) and changing the fluid after 100 miles or so. cheap insurance.

thanks brett, thats exactally what i was referring to

littlebluexj said:

How they lasted
(1)d35 lasted a year with 31x12.50's Thorn turds.The day I went to 33x12.50's I blew a pinion shaft and ring gear.

.

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that was just the D35 givin way IMO

wouldn't the locked/welded rear contributed to that?

I've had the same welded D60 in my last two 4x4s(first was a '73 dodge 1/2ton, 35s, 4.10s and mildly built 360, now its in my XJ, 36s, 4.10s, and stock motor) and its held up fine, never second thought on it. Its probably the most bullet proof part of my rig.

I used 7018 rod and welded the gears to each other, to the cross shaft, and along the outer diameter of the gears to the case.

If you are welding a D35 I would be worried about breaking axle shafts or pinions before breaking the case.

BTW I wouldn't reccommond welding a D35. A lunch box locker can be had fairly cheap. $300-$400 new(less used) and will be a lot easier on the diff.

BrettM said:

weld them up, then weld plate into the sides, like this post: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=620432&highlight=weld#post620432

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BAD IDEA...if you run a c-clip axle like the D35, 8.25, or an 8.8!!!

hasta

I don't weld the gears to the carrier. I do cut 8 small chunks of steel and wedge them in before I weld each joint. Cleaning with 2 cans of brake cleaner and an air hose usually works for me. I use 6011 rod as it doesn't care what kind of crap is in the weld area. I break off as much slag as possible and then I stick it in the sandblast cabinet. You don't have to go that far, but I've got the cabinet so I use it.

Jeffro600 said:

BAD IDEA...if you run a c-clip axle like the D35, 8.25, or an 8.8!!!

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running a c-clip axle is a bad idea

but seriously, if your going to, just use one plate, and weld the corners on the other side

OneTonXJ said:

I don't weld the gears to the carrier. I do cut 8 small chunks of steel and wedge them in before I weld each joint. Cleaning with 2 cans of brake cleaner and an air hose usually works for me. I use 6011 rod as it doesn't care what kind of crap is in the weld area. I break off as much slag as possible and then I stick it in the sandblast cabinet. You don't have to go that far, but I've got the cabinet so I use it.

Click to expand...

Dumping a bag of oil-dry on it works pretty well for slowing down the cooling, too.
Just make sure it's completely cleaned out afterwards.

i read somewhere that filling the carrier with jb weld was the new black on welded diffs