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Didn't make it back from the last trip!

Gojeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Australia
Well my un broken reliability record has just ended with the XJ on my Outback trips. Got in on the back of a tilt tray with my trailer half jammed under the rear as well from interstate at 2 am this morning and a $800 bill from doing so. This trip has had more than one problem too starting with splitting my power steering cooler on the first night to loosing the nut off the top of the front shock along with the rubbers to check engine lights coming on due to a injector plug not seating correctly at times. Few days later a rear disc brake starts dragging causing the disc to turn blue. Then for the only the second time ever I manage to boil the radiator, and the auto at the same time I found out later, as well. Still have not worked out why that happened so will look into that as the auto continued to pump oil out of the kick down cable and its vent! As the vent was connected to a distributor vent I have as well it caused a loss on power due to the trans oil being pumped into to it which took me some time to work out. But then yesterday I was just cruising along at a 100 kph on a flat road and bang, followed by a noise that sounded like I had a length of something stuck through my new tyres which was hitting the body work with every wheel rotation! Pulled over and could find nothing wrong. Crawled along slowly with my wife running along side to see if she could pin point where it was coming from and the noise had gone. So drove off, after she got in of course, and the noise came back at around 45 kph! Turned down a dirt road so I could hang out of the Jeep while rolling along and thought it came from the rear diff. Jacked up one wheel at a time and it would clunk every second rotation of either wheel or four turns of the drive shaft. Uni's are all fine but think I have broken something in my D35 Detroit Tru-Trac or the ring and pinion. Was nothing I could do out there now so had to sit on the side of the road in 45*C heat, 113*F, for 7 hours waiting for a tilt tray to pick us up and take us over 300 kms home. Didn't want any one else working on it so was the only way out.
So that is where it is at and wont be able to look at until Tuesday it as it is sitting at a friends factory who opened it up for me at that hour. I have broken the four bolts that hold the diff centre together that you can see in the photo below.
TrueTrac.jpg

Anyone have that happen before as might have done it again this time. Drill the broken bolts out last time about 3 years ago and replaced them with a higher grade and it lasted longer. Funny thing was is that I was just talking to my wife about fitting a D44 under there and doing a ratio change as lost some pep on the hill climbs while towing with the new 32" tyres or fitting a stroker. Knew the D35 would not be up to either so guess fitting a D44 and 4.56's instead of the 4.11's I have now is on the cards instead. Would really love a high pinion axle like a flipped 9" from Currie but might work out too high a cost to get one over here. Read while on the side of the road there were high pinion D44's too as seen them listed here ( http://www.sams4x4store.com/Dana44Axles.htm ) but don't know anyone that has ever run one. What else is out there as know about the 8.8 from an Explorer but don't want to lose rear track width as think they are 3/4" narrower each side and spacers are illegal here. No D44's from a MJ or some tow package XJ's were ever sold here so would have to go for a D44 from a TJ if I choose that route as all TJ's here have D44's. Thought they are the same track as an XJ at 60" WMS to WMS but have seen someone write that an XJ is 60.75" but no one else says so? Hoping it just just some bolts in the Tru-Trac like happened once before and maybe luckily twice without hurting anything else but still want to change the rear axle anyway if it is but will get it on the road first if a simple repair.
So what do you guys think I should go with? Hi9 or the Currie 9" high pinion ( can get rid of my trans drop then too ), standard 9" ( but would then need a sye due to the lower pinion than any thing else ).
D44 high ( if I can get one over here as too hard to ship a whole axle ) or a low pinion one from a TJ?
Now I dont know either if I should run the Tru-Trac again either even though I really like it otherwise and have had no trouble with the front one. Very streetable and does not effect my towing or off camber work like a full locker would. Like the fact you have a benefit on the street too unlike an ARB.
 
Sorry to read about the break down, that has got to be rough when parts are most likely hard to come by down there.
As for re-using the Tru-Trac, since this has happened before, I think that I would check the bolt holes for worn threads/ out-of-round issues. I would also look more into the TJ axle swap, and see how cost effective it is compared to rebuilding/ regearing the D-35.
Good luck, and please share more of the "down-under" exp. with us.
Oh, and Happy New Year.
 
Thanks mate and has been the new year for over 18 hours already here. ;)
If it is just the bolts again I will put myself back on the road and start building up a 9" or a TJ D44. Dont want any more money spent on the D35 as wont stand up to future mod. ie. 4.56's and one day a stroker.
 
That for that link and reading through it now. We have Landcruiser's, Hilux's ( Mini truck or Tacoma's you call them now ), HJ-FJ79's, Prado's, Krugers and RAV4's in the pickups and 4wd's.

Just wondering on what gear brands to avoid for my new ring and pinions? The last time I went with Dana as heard they would be the best and have always been able to hear the rear set from it not being a well matched set. The gear engagement pattern was perfect and all but with no load and coasting you could always just hear it. Was much worse when first put in but some towing in sand dunes really quietened it down but never really went right away even 5 years later now. Read on a Aussie forum that Yukon was no good but that guy does have a 4wd shop that does not sell them or gears that low in price. Yet I look at their site and it says they are made to be quieter than other brands?
So what are Motive and Richmond like which I can get here too? Any better than others to pay extra or gear set brand never to buy?
 
Richmond gears are rather popular in drag race and NASCAR, so I would be inclined to run them. Rather good warranty also, if I recall right.
 
ren said:
Richmond gears are rather popular in drag race and NASCAR, so I would be inclined to run them. Rather good warranty also, if I recall right.
Both of those uses don,t care about noise,just strength and for only short periods of time.
I have been running the Yukon gears for over a year now(20K miles)they are as quiet as the stock Dana gears.Randy,s R&P can get you what you need .Not sure of the cost of shipping down under.
Wayne
 
Thanks guys.
Pretty sure what I will find when I pull out the diff tomorrow. I think the same as once before that the 4 bolts hold the centre diff together have failed. Been researching and found that more people have had the same problem and they have since changed the design and have 6 bolts now holding it together since 2002. I bought mine in 2000.
http://www.redpulsar.us/~coldfusion/TT.html
 
I,m not sure it has been mentioned but the Ford 8.8 might fill the bill.Granted there are some mount and drive shaft differences.The width problem could be counteracted with wheel of different back space.
Just a thought---
Wayne
 
Gojeep said:
\So what do you guys think I should go with? Hi9 or the Currie 9" high pinion


Bummer about getting stranded and getting hauled in on a tilt bed. I had to have mine brought back on one a couple of months ago as well. the truck had a single cab so we ended up riding in the XJ all the way down out of the mountains. I decided I didn't like the 48" lift, but the cruise control seemed to work better that it ever has. :laugh3:

IF you decide to go the 9" route, I'd go the Hi-9 route (again) over the Currie. When you start comparing on a price basis, the Hi-9 is a bit more expensive, but not as much as I was expecting it to be. The Currie has a 33" tyre limit while the Hi-9 has none. Shipping will likely be more with the Hi-9, the thing is a monster. Not that it makes any difference as far as clearance, any HP is an improvement over a LP, but the pinion is slightly higher w/ the Hi-9.

As far as getting something stronger than the 35, hehehe, good luck. In the southern hemisphere my first consideration would be parts availability; the TJ or Toyota both will provide that. The Toyota will likely be a 6 lug, so your front or rear lug patterns will need to be changed. I would think the 44 would have more generic parts available for a disc conversion, but the right late model may already have them. Either may send you shopping for an SYE, not a bad thing. Both will already have a housing, axle tubes and unless you are looking to go forged, shafts. Either 9" will need modified or after market axle shafts.
 
Sorry to hear about your bad luck, what a tow bill! Can you get chrysler 8.25s over there, cheap and plenty stout for smaller tires and a direct bolt in.
 
Cant get 8.25's over here even on the late model XJ's?

Well got some bad news. The whole diff is trashed after I pulled it today!!!
Seems the three bolts that hold the drive side of the diff together worked their way out and the heads got sheared off and one got jammed next to the ring gear and went through the pinion with every turn. That was were the noise is coming from! The centre itself is in pretty good nick with a few minor marks in some of the worm gears but the pinion has a score mark on it on half of one tooth. The oil had turn metallic grey from grinding up washes and bits of bolt. Got two of the three broken bolts out as one wound itself out and the other was snapped high enough that I could remove with vice grips. I have drilled through the other but the Easyout kept slipping. Try with a newer one tomorrow. I just hope I can put it together for a few months while I build a new axle. Have found a guy who builds 9" full floaters with billet Moser axles! He sells them for race a drag cars and said I can build my own leading me the axle jig and all. But I really what a high pinion Currie centre or Hi9 and no one here has even heard of one. So would be a 3 month wait at least to get a centre over here. Still got to work out the total cost but it would be a fantastic setup wouldn't it. :)
 
I'd say since you have tons of Yotas down there, find a 8" and put one of those under your XJ. They have roughly the same groud clearance as a D35 to boot. They make a TruTrac for the 8" also. Finding spare parts should be easier too, right?

--Matt
 
Well guys the news was not as bad as I first thought. Took the centre to a diff guy I know and the last bolt came out by hammering in a cheap torx bit. He prefers these to the easy outs as you have more points of contact. Came straight out and he said the bolt was way too soft. Seems that when I replaced them last time the bolt place said they would be grade 9 or higher like all cap screws. But this is not the case at all I have now found out. These were un marked so went to another place this time and bought some Unbrako cap screws in 12.9 grade and torqued them down to 108 ft lbs. along with some of the Loctite thread locker that the Trectech site recommeded. The score mark on the one tooth of the pinion cleaned up quite well after just carefully taking off the high spots and I also noticed that it will only make contact when driving in reverse. Have everything back together after spending much time cleaning everything in the housing and the diff but have left adding the oil until tomorrow as it is the best thing to do for the Loctite to get full strength.
This should allow me to drive around for a while until I work out which route I'll take and wait for parts to arrive.
 
Think I am going to the Currie High pinion 9" as it is rated to 36" tyres and 4.86 ratio neither of which I am close to with 32's and 4.56. It is also half the price or a $1000 cheaper than the Hi9 diff third member setup the same.
 
It should be fairly easy for you to find Ford 9" axle housings of correct width in Au, right? I thought Ford made a bunch of cars their in the 70's that came with this diff.

Just a thought to save you some money on shipping a housing, etc.
 
JMHO but the best 9" for swaping in th 81-86 Bronco unit. That is where i got mine nad it bolted right up.
 
Ghost said:
JMHO but the best 9" for swaping in th 81-86 Bronco unit. That is where i got mine nad it bolted right up.

Uh, did you note GoJeep's location? Not a lot of fullsize Bronco's made or imported into Australia, mate.
 
CRASH said:
Uh, did you note GoJeep's location? Not a lot of fullsize Bronco's made or imported into Australia, mate.
umm i am not a n00b here Crash you of all people should know that. I have been reading his post and endevors for quite some tiem now.... so YES I do know where he is from. Just letting him know the EASY 9" swap. I haev also been told that the f150 of those years had the same axle.....
 
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