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need help with misinformation

funvtec

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oak creek, WI
I've been searching and I'm still confused on a thing or two

i have a 90 xj limited with a dana30 and 35 (not sure yet have to take some pics to show you all) and a np242 transfer case. The problem I'm trying to decypher is if i need a slip yoke eliminator I've read that tom woods makes 1 but generally you don't need one????


so i need to be clear on this

on my 242 I'm looking to run 4.5 inches of lift minimum do i need an SYE or do i get a longer drive shaft?

i have searched many threads but there is a whole lot of misinformation out there and confusion an the subject


TIA
 
subject misinfo. as you put it, is because it seems no two xj's are the same when lifted. some say the older the rig the less chance you need sye. my guess is you will still need one. you will have to install the lift and see what happens. you could play around with axle shims and probably take most vibes out, but may still have some vibes to deal with. some people will put up with small vibes and some want perfect balance. heck if you have the money, i would just plan on doin it and you will be better off in the long run most likely. my .02
 
funvtec said:
I've been searching and I'm still confused on a thing or two

i have a 90 xj limited with a dana30 and 35 (not sure yet have to take some pics to show you all) and a np242 transfer case. The problem I'm trying to decypher is if i need a slip yoke eliminator I've read that tom woods makes 1 but generally you don't need one????


so i need to be clear on this

on my 242 I'm looking to run 4.5 inches of lift minimum do i need an SYE or do i get a longer drive shaft?

i have searched many threads but there is a whole lot of misinformation out there and confusion an the subject


TIA
Goin over 4.5", YES get the SYE or Hack 'n Tap... not neccesarily a longer DS but a CV one.

Rusty's sells Advance Adapters SYE & Tom Woods CV DS for $480.
 
it seems i may be confused on the whole subject if SYE's

OK here we go
I understand that they will help to eliminate vibes in the drive train
I also thought they had something to do with keeping the drive shaft from falling out when the suspension was fully extended no?
i also read that in the instance that the drive shaft comes out either unexpected or expected an SYE will stop fluid from coming out.

forgive me for being naive about the subject I'm just trying to get things figured out
 
funvtec said:
so this will replace an actual part of the transfer case and replace my drive shaft?

http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/...ustys&Product_Code=AACOMBO1&Category_Code=SYE

but they don't list anything for the 242


(NP231)
Before:
np231j_rear.jpg


After:
np231dhd_rear.jpg
 
Bowzer said:
(NP231)
Before:
np231j_rear.jpg


After:
np231dhd_rear.jpg


absolulty perfect that clears alot up for me! thank you it all makes sense now

how do i go about getting a drive shaft made up? do i take it to a shop and they hack the yoke off and put dog ears on?
 
from the Rubicon Express Website:
RE1801 Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit NP231 Pre-1996 - Slip yoke eliminator kit for Pre-1996 Wranglers and Cherokees. Application: NP231,NP242 $189.95 + S&H

"Stock Jeeps have a slip yoke style output shaft at the rear driveline. This design is not conducive to off road use nor the steeper operating angles caused by suspension lifts. To ensure smooth and durable driveline operation, convert to a fixed yoke output and install a CV driveshaft. A must on all lifts over 3.5". This kit requires the modification of your stock output shaft. Drill and tap included for easy installation. Drive flange is machined from solid Stainless Steel for extreme strength and corrosion resistance"
 
funvtec said:
absolulty perfect that clears alot up for me! thank you it all makes sense now

how do i go about getting a drive shaft made up? do i take it to a shop and they hack the yoke off and put dog ears on?

I'm in the process of buying a SYE... so, I can't help ya with installation. I've heard of guys using their front DS in the rear, after a SYE install. I recommend gettin one made for your rig. They'll take measurements 'n what not and build it for ya.

wait a lil while... people with SYE, or have installed it etc. whill chime in :wave:
 
thanks for all your input

this is the kit your talking about

sye.jpg


how does this work? its completely different is this the "hack and tap" kit?
 
this raises another question, as i was thinking about this setup.

thinking of the geometry of the hack n tap system opposed to the oem set up
for instance at stock ride height the yolk sits on the shaft about 3" and as driving down a bumpy road the rear suspension travel would cause the yolk to slide in and out a bit to compensate for the change in suspension geometry

IE as the axle is forced up the drive shaft moves in and when it is let down the shaft slides out.

with the hack n tap that movement isn't allowed at all what adverse effects will this have. will this bind something in the rear suspension up or will this like to break trans mounts?

or is the actual movement so minimal that it has no effect whatsoever
 
The rear shaft for an sye setup works just like the front shaft. It has the slip yoke on the shaft itself. With the right flange adapter, you can even use a front shaft on the rear. Do a search, and you will find ALOT of info on this subject. :lecture:
 
sgtmack said:
The rear shaft for an sye setup works just like the front shaft. It has the slip yoke on the shaft itself. With the right flange adapter, you can even use a front shaft on the rear. Do a search, and you will find ALOT of info on this subject. :lecture:


i did my best and that is just the problem there is a lot of info out there. I could spend days searching and still not have a definite answer and i just needed some clarification. and here we are 1 hour after i started this post and i have learned a ton about the subject when i was searching i was still scratching my head
 
Bowzer said:
CV driveshaft takes care of that... like the front.
No, the "CV" (which is actually a double cardan, not a true CV) does not take care of that. What takes care it it is having the drive shaft built with a slip spline section in the driveshaft. You can build a double cardan shaft without a slip spline, and you can build a shaft with conventional yokes on both ends that has the slip spline in the shaft.
 
Multi-DoubleCV.jpg


if i assume correctly the "double cardan" are the ends, and the slip spine is the center like the front shaft, now what good would a double cardan be without the center slip section? wouldn't this just add 2 more u-joints to break and still not allow any type of shinking and extending action?
 
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