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Lincoln Locker again

Neil

Neil

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oakhurst, CA
Ok here's the deal, I finally got my 4:88's for the front axle (D 30). I may be able to squeeze enough money for an EZ locker for the D 30. I am hoping to have enough money to get a mini spool for the rear (D 44). My question is will I be able to remove the spider gears from the carrier if I weld only the spiders. This will only be very temporary until I can get the mini spool or another EZ locker. I will not run a welded differential permanently ever again. Some of you that have been on the board for a while may remember the carnage from the last time I welded the spiders. I will only be running it welded for about 2 months tops. All I want to know is, can you remove the spiders. I don't want to stoke the Lincoln Locker fire again!!!! hasta

Thanks,
Neil
 
By the way I wanted to let everyone know that I got my gears from Rawbrown. It was one of my best purchasing experances ever. I have to say I got it all: service, knowledge, quality, and price. He did exactly what he said he was going to do, and went out of his way to acomidate me. When I get good service I like to tell everyone. When I get bad service I do the same. Ryan If you see this, thank you, I can't wait to get them in.

Neil
 
IF you do a lincon locker correctly, it wont fail, weld a bolt into the the corners of the gears, and weld the spiders to the carrier
 
Once they're welded in, they're there to stay, since the side gears slide into the outside of the carrier. Just weld them, don't bother with the mini-spool... essentially the same thing, just a lot cheaper. Do it right, cut some pieces of flat stock to fit into the gears, crank your welder up as high as it'll go, and fill it up. I've used 7018 rod with an older craftsman stick welder and had good results. Wheeled it like that for a long time and never had any troubles. Sold the axle and as far as I know, it's still being wheeled with my welded spiders.
 
Why can't you live for two months without the rear locked?

Doesn't seem to make much sense to go through that trouble for a couple of months. You can still wheel with an open diff, plus it's winter so you'll be hitting the snow and it could be better to be open than spooled.
 
I know that I don't want to weld to the carrier. I want to weld only the spiders. I just don't know if I can get them out if I do it this way. I'm not a rocket scientist but I figured if I welded to the carrier they weren't coming out.

Neil
 
Goatman said:
Why can't you live for two months without the rear locked?

Doesn't seem to make much sense to go through that trouble for a couple of months. You can still wheel with an open diff, plus it's winter so you'll be hitting the snow and it could be better to be open than spooled.
Click to expand...

I can't help it Richard, I'm just a PITA. I probably could wait, but there is that chance that I probably can't. I just want to know that if I loose control of myself, and break out the welder, that I won't screw anything up permanently. (like that has ever stopped me before.)
 
Even if you weld only the spiders together, without welding them to the carrier, you still will not be able to get them out. The side gears that the axles slide into have a portion that is recessed into the carrier. You have to remove the center pin, then remove the other two gears (forget their name), before you can remove the side gears from the carrier. If they're welded together, this becomes impossible.

Just Weld It! Like I said before, don't bother with a mini-spool. It's no different than a welded spider gear ball anyway. I've heard of people breaking mini-spools just as many times as I've heard of them breaking welded spiders (and that's not a lot).
 
Neil said:
By the way I wanted to let everyone know that I got my gears from Rawbrown. It was one of my best purchasing experances ever. I have to say I got it all: service, knowledge, quality, and price. He did exactly what he said he was going to do, and went out of his way to acomidate me. When I get good service I like to tell everyone. When I get bad service I do the same. Ryan If you see this, thank you, I can't wait to get them in.

Neil
Click to expand...


Call, E-Mail or PM rawbrown and ask him this question.

I'll save you the trouble. He'll tell you not to do it. ;)
 
Neil said:
I know that I don't want to weld to the carrier. I want to weld only the spiders. I just don't know if I can get them out if I do it this way. I'm not a rocket scientist but I figured if I welded to the carrier they weren't coming out.

Neil
Click to expand...

Patience, my son.



:D
 
Welded to the carrier or not, once you weld it, you aint gettin those spider gears out without damaging the carrier. Just weld the thing. I run my 8.25 welded...IMO, i wish i would have done it a LONG time ago. If you do weld it, make sure you welding skills are up to par or take it to a professional...welding spiders is not something you want to skimp on. Lots of penetration and TONS of material buildup is essential to keep those spiders fuzed together. I know theres alot of controversy over lincoln locked axles...but im a believer in them if their done PROPERLY...youll break something else long before you break properly welded spiders. Doesnt cost you a thing other than some gear oil and welding materials. Carriers are cheap...if it turns out you dont like it, just swap in a replacement. Carry a spare shaft and carrier and youll be fine.
 
It can be done. What you have to do is fill in two teeth of the side gears so the spiders won't spin into them. They can be taken out, you just have to line it all up is all. Not the strongest way and it may clank a bit, but it may get you by for the 2 months.
Brett
 
My whole Idea was to run the mini spool until I could afford a lunch box locker. I did have my 44 welded before. I just spent over $800.00 on tires. and I remember how fast my tires wore when I was welded. Now that it was mentioned about having to turn the spiders I do remember that you had to position them just right for them to come out. I'm leaning more toward Richard's idea of the patience thing. As much as it hurts I think it's the right idea. :rattle:


Thanks,
Neil
 
If you keep your tires aired up at a fairly high PSI on the street, you wont rip up your tires all that bad...i keep my 33x12.50's at 32-33 PSI on the street and they wear very nicely despite being welded in the rear. If you run lower pressures(id say anything under 25 on the street), expect them to chunk and wear REALLY quick on pavement.
 
seanR said:
If you weld it it will break!
I will say that to my dieing day!
Click to expand...


I did weld it and it did break. A little over a year ago I posted some gnarly pics of the carnage of my welded 44. I don't want to weld as a permanent solution. I loved the traction when I was welded. I have learned a lot since I first started wheeling. One of those things is to listen to Richard. I have come a long way from the guy running Swamp Lake on 3" springs, 3" spacers on 35's with stock gearing and a welded rear diff. I still owe Richard a beer for the power steering fluid that I borrowed because my pump kept boiling over. I am a lot more cautious now. A couple of years ago. I wouldn't have thought twice about it and would have run out and welded it right away, with out thinking of the consequences. I listen a lot more than act now. That's why I guess I was hoping that I could find some people to talk me out of it. If I had an extra $250.00 I never would have started this thread. I guess that is the Jeeper's unending quest... More traction.
 
Neil said:
My whole Idea was to run the mini spool until I could afford a lunch box locker. I did have my 44 welded before. I just spent over $800.00 on tires. and I remember how fast my tires wore when I was welded.
Neil
Click to expand...


Jeffro600 said:
If you keep your tires aired up at a fairly high PSI on the street, you wont rip up your tires all that bad...i keep my 33x12.50's at 32-33 PSI on the street and they wear very nicely despite being welded in the rear. If you run lower pressures(id say anything under 25 on the street), expect them to chunk and wear REALLY quick on pavement.
Click to expand...

If funds are tight enough that it's tempting to run a mini spool until a lunchbox locker can be afforded, you sure as hell don't want to prematurely wear out $800 worth of tires. Tire wear may not be as fast with more pressure in the tires, but it's sure as hell still faster with a spool than with a locker or open. Scuffing the tires around every corner will wear tires faster than not scuffing them.

Why is it that some people just can't keep from touting these cheap ass ways of doing things like they were the greatest things since sliced bread? Spools and welded diffs are perfectly acceptable for those willing to live with the downsides....just like anything else. BUT, it isn't the best way to go, it isn't any cheaper in the long run, and it doesn't give better performance if the rig will be driven on the street. C'mon guys, it's an acceptable cheap ass way of getting locked up......but that's it!
 
Goatman said:
Why is it that some people just can't keep from touting these cheap ass ways of doing things like they were the greatest things since sliced bread?
Click to expand...

Why is it everytime someone recomends an inexpensive way of doing things, that WORKS, someone else has to chime in with 25 reasons why spending more money is always the better solution.

Not everyone here can sink an insane amount of money into their rigs. I dont run on a 800 dollar set of tires...i dont run an 800 dollar selectable locker...but my cheap tires and lincoln locker will get me anywhere that the more expensive stuff will...

"OH, but it will break"

Yup, so does the expensive stuff... :rolleyes: Thats what spare parts are for.
 
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