Ok, so I had this problem for the second time now. 1989 XJ 4.0, 5sp, 242K miles. about a year and a half ago I put a high output alternator on it. About 7 months ago I was driving down the highway and the radio started acting up, then the dash went dark and the jeep quit running. There was not power at all. Couldn't even turn the e-flashers on. It sat for about 4 hours until I could come back to get it, and I got in, turned the key for giggles and it started right up as though it had no problems at all. I got on here and got to reading and found out that they have very poor grounding on the XJ's. So I added two 4-gauge ground straps to the system. Just today going to work, I noticed that my seatbelt light came on, which was followed by another total loss of electrical. I was running my headlights and a set of 55w driving lights, my heater was on full blast, and the stereo was on (plain stereo no amp, etc) This time there was enough juice to run the flashers and to get the motor to turn over once, but not enough to start it. I had a guy from work come and tow me in as I was only a couple miles away. When pulling into the parking lot I decided to put it into gear and let the clutch out to see if it would start and it fired right up with no problem. I turned it off about a minute later and then tried to turn the key over to see if it would start, and it fired right up. I'm stumped. Driving home tonight the dash gauge showed between 11-12 volts during the drive, which is a little low. Any ideas? Anyone else had a similar problem.
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Electrical Problem 89 XJ, goes dead
- Thread starter deisenba
- Start date
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
Belt tight? 11-12 is low you need 13-14.75 to be charging.deisenba said:
Yes, the belt is tight. Yes the battery terminals are corrosion free and tight.
I should also mention that when I added the additional grounds, I also upgraded the positive wire from the alternator to the regulator? (not sure -its next to the battery and many wires go to it under the plastic cover) and the wire from the regulator to the battery.
I should also mention that when I added the additional grounds, I also upgraded the positive wire from the alternator to the regulator? (not sure -its next to the battery and many wires go to it under the plastic cover) and the wire from the regulator to the battery.
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
Ok then when was the last tome you replaced your ignition switch?deisenba said:
Everything you upgraded still must go through that switch.
It's a starter relay, which could be the problem. http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...CH&PartNumber=AR578&Description=Starter+Relaydeisenba said:
I replaced the ignition switch about 4 years ago. I hadn't thought of this though. Would a bad connection at the switch result in my gauge only showing 11-12 volts? I know that when I first put the alternator on it showed a solid 13-14 volts.
Also, this isn't my everyday car. So even though it has been about 8 months since the last issue, I've probably only put 3,000 miles on it since the first problem.
Also, this isn't my everyday car. So even though it has been about 8 months since the last issue, I've probably only put 3,000 miles on it since the first problem.
uvaldetxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Uvalde, Texas
ignition switch
OK, I'll buy that it is the ignition switch, but I'd like to have a way to test it to prove that it is the problem. I don't want to change it out and then find out when I'm 3 miles up the mountain and in 2 feet of snow that it might not have been the switch. Plus both times it has happened to me I have been on I-5 going 70MPH and once was in a construction zone with no shoulder to pull off onto and I almost got creamed by a semi.
Thanks
Thanks
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
Don't blame you, look at the plug first you should see where it's got hot.deisenba said:
You can also check the voltage in and out looking for the drop.
There only $14.00 so don't wast to much time testing.
Well, 2+ years later without a problem and it has re-appeared. Although I have only put about 5K miles on in that time. Here is what happened this morning. Started the Jeep up and let it run about 6-8 minutes to warm up and defrost the windshield. I noticed the blower motor was going slow and the windshield wipers were very slow also about a mile down the road. I checked my guage and it was showing about 10V (usually close to 13). I turned around to head back to the house and when I was about 300 ft from my driveway it died. In total I drove maybe 2-3 miles. The voltage did gradually drop off completely. I noticed the lights getting dimmer and dimmer until there was nothing.
What I did 2 years ago was I put in a new ignitnition switch in. The actual switch, not the key switch. I had added additional grounding straps from the battery to the body. I replaced the ends of the battery cables (which I thought was the problem because they were badly corroded under the plastic cover). I have not had any more issues until today. The switch did not show a hot spot on it when I replaced it.
Anybody have any good ideas. The battery is good. I'm not an electrical wiz, but the problem has to be either on the positive side or the negative side. Anyone have any ideas for how to troubleshoot it and possibly isolate the cause? It is an intermittant problem. Maybe the switch is out of alignment? How do I figure out if it is before the switch or after the switch?
What I did 2 years ago was I put in a new ignitnition switch in. The actual switch, not the key switch. I had added additional grounding straps from the battery to the body. I replaced the ends of the battery cables (which I thought was the problem because they were badly corroded under the plastic cover). I have not had any more issues until today. The switch did not show a hot spot on it when I replaced it.
Anybody have any good ideas. The battery is good. I'm not an electrical wiz, but the problem has to be either on the positive side or the negative side. Anyone have any ideas for how to troubleshoot it and possibly isolate the cause? It is an intermittant problem. Maybe the switch is out of alignment? How do I figure out if it is before the switch or after the switch?
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
There should be an "auxiliary" lead from your positive battery clamp to the starter motor relay screwpost - this is the main power feed for the vehicle. The main distribution is via the fusible links on the screwpost.
If the conductors in that lead are starting to break (it happens - your 1989 is now 18-19 years old...) they can cause you trouble - I've been through the same thing. Replace the lead (or just replace the rest of them and quit worrying altogether for another ten years or so...)
If the conductors in that lead are starting to break (it happens - your 1989 is now 18-19 years old...) they can cause you trouble - I've been through the same thing. Replace the lead (or just replace the rest of them and quit worrying altogether for another ten years or so...)
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
X2 on the alternator died theory.
Have you checked the clamps on the battery again for fresh corrosion?
Does it set up for long periods with out being starting, if so the battery may be sulfated, and thus not taking a charge and thus draining itself and thus not supplying the excitation volatge needed at the alternator. have a shop test the battery and the alternator. Many parts houses do the tests for free.
I went through 2 ignition switches in 12 months before I bypased the AC blower circuit around the igntion switch on my 87 with a fresh, heavier gauge wire from the back of the fuse box to a new dash toggle switch. NO problems since as long as I remember to turn the extra switch off too when I park it! :banghead:
Have you checked the clamps on the battery again for fresh corrosion?
Does it set up for long periods with out being starting, if so the battery may be sulfated, and thus not taking a charge and thus draining itself and thus not supplying the excitation volatge needed at the alternator. have a shop test the battery and the alternator. Many parts houses do the tests for free.
I went through 2 ignition switches in 12 months before I bypased the AC blower circuit around the igntion switch on my 87 with a fresh, heavier gauge wire from the back of the fuse box to a new dash toggle switch. NO problems since as long as I remember to turn the extra switch off too when I park it! :banghead:
Last edited:
Ecomike - The clamps do not have any fresh corrosion that I noticed. I will look some more when I get home tonight. I usually drive it about 2 times per month and the battery stays charged. If it ever seems weak when I start it, I put the charger on it for a few hours. 2 years ago when it last happened, I had the battery and alternator both checked and they were good. I will have them both checked again. I may just pull it also and have the local alternator and starter rebuilding shop take a look at it. Its less than 4 years old and has less than 10K miles on it.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Batteries do not like to set up for weeks at a time, it takes its toll. I have started using solar powered trickle chargers on my spare, parked jeeps, and an indoor trickle charger on my back up battery.
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
When my 87 was new, the alternator would periodically stop charging. Turned out to be the yellow signal wire to the back of the alternator. The spade connector was really loose and would make iffy contact.
The alternator in my 89 got a coolant bath which would periodically short out the regulator.
I've many times had a coating of mud and slime between the slip rings and brushes cause problems.
The alternator in my 89 got a coolant bath which would periodically short out the regulator.
I've many times had a coating of mud and slime between the slip rings and brushes cause problems.
