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which one would you do? Weld or aussie locker

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drbobxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hemet, CA
Ok,

for my front d30 with disconnects... I'm don't have the money for a locker yet, its not a DD only offroad... would you weld it or wait for the locker?? and why?
going to put aussie locking in rear.
I have ran with it welded before I changed gears and had no probems..
what would a locker(Not ARB) do for me that welding(spool) couldn't?
 
Oh yeah sorry my sig didnt make it

33x9.5 tires, with 4.56 gears.. stock shafts for now till they break.
And not sure about the question about breakage... is anyone wanting to break a axle? but yes I have broken u joints and one axle so far...

type of wheelin.. anything in socal.. rocks and sand. no mud.
here is just a few weekend ago:
normal_IMG_7650.jpg

this is nothing hard, but most of my wheelin is like this.
 
i really enjoy my aussie on my jeep, both front and rear.. they do well offroad and i have given my rear one hell.. which is why i bought a front
 
Get the locker. If you end up welding it, let me know so I won't go on any runs you go on. I won't run with anyone that has a welded D30. Too much likelyhood of breaking.
 
i have a question. should i get an ez locker for the front or just for the back? i have a limited slip in the rear (chrysler 8.25) but i was wondering will that be enough or should i get an ez locker or powertrax no slip. i plan on getting 4.56's. i have 3.73's right now on 33's and dont want to get new axle shafts till they break. whats the difference between the limited slip and the powertrax no slip. btw me and my friend took the 3rd off of his 85 toyota to find that the spider gears were welded and it was seriously the jenkiest thing i have ever seen in my life. oh and his rear diff grenaded haha pinion was melted to crap. anyways what should i do front or rear ez locker ( only have money for one of them right now cause im 16 and in school. but yeah what to do?
 
ohh and the kinda wheelin i want to do is to be able to get through the rubicon without gettin winched or towed
 
a limited slip is a limited slip. a no slip is a locker, and quite a good one too.
 
If you know a reputable welder, weld it, especially if your trying to do this with little to no money. I was debating on welding the 8.25 in my XJ....did it a few weeks ago....best FREE improvment i could have ever done. Ive seen weld jobs break...ive seen lockers break...anything will break if you beat on it hard enough. With a GOOD weld job, there shouldnt be any issues with breaking spyders...shafts are another story, but since your only running 9.5" tires and dont seem to be wheelin it hard, i wouldnt worry too much about it. I wheel with a guy that runs a D30/D35, welded front and rear on 35x12.50" M/T's and he beats on it pretty hard and hasnt broken anything.

Youll get alot of sneers and scoffs from people saying "dont weld it or youll end up on the side of the road"....those are the ones who have either:

A - have never ran a welded diff.... or

B - Had a poorly welded diff that fell apart.

C - Like to complain as it makes it a little more challenging to turn.
 
I say go for it. I welded my D30/35 before i went to 44s. broke the rear once but had a set of spider gears so i just made it open. Now i feel that welding to the carrier makes it a strongersetup but alot harder to fix on the trail WHEN it goes. But welding spider to spider gives you a better chance of fixing something on the trail
 
both my 44's were welded, i broke a rear shaft on the street (got pissed at the girl, dumped the clutch from like 6 grand) so its back to open....

im building a 60 for the rear, and its getting a full spool
 
Jeffro600 said:
Youll get alot of sneers and scoffs from people saying "dont weld it or youll end up on the side of the road"....those are the ones who have either:

A - have never ran a welded diff.... or

B - Had a poorly welded diff that fell apart.

C - Like to complain as it makes it a little more challenging to turn.
Click to expand...

Actually, the people who sneer have either:

A. Waited for you on the trail while you change shafts (4 in one Rubicon Trip)

B. Had to tow you out of the Rubicon when your whole group ran out of spare shafts to loan.

C. Had to fix multiple ball joint failures on the same trip due to broken shafts.
 
BrettM said:
if you've broke joints and/or shafts with an open front, just leave it that way until you can afford alloy shafts/joints and a locker.
Click to expand...


some of the u joints where with the weld diffs

But I can't see why you would break more with a weld diff then a locker???? this is my question in the first place....

I've had a weld front before and only broke one u joint but that was because of some ball joints failed and UCA. 33x9.5 don't think I will be helding up any trail run... but I will want for you guys with 37s and lockers that break axles evertime I go... :D
 
drbobxj said:
But I can't see why you would break more with a weld diff then a locker???? this is my question in the first place....
Click to expand...

Mostly due to the fact that it wont allow the axle to differentiate(Spelling...) when going around turns adding stress...in a straight line though, the differences are negligable... and it throws something else into the mix to break...the welds on the spider gears.

Done properly, their as good as any spool. With any type of wheelin with lockers/spools its not a question of if youll break, its when...it will happen, so carry spare parts!
 
Shomsky462 said:
i have a question. should i get an ez locker for the front or just for the back? i have a limited slip in the rear (chrysler 8.25) but i was wondering will that be enough or should i get an ez locker or powertrax no slip. i plan on getting 4.56's. i have 3.73's right now on 33's and dont want to get new axle shafts till they break. whats the difference between the limited slip and the powertrax no slip. btw me and my friend took the 3rd off of his 85 toyota to find that the spider gears were welded and it was seriously the jenkiest thing i have ever seen in my life. oh and his rear diff grenaded haha pinion was melted to crap. anyways what should i do front or rear ez locker ( only have money for one of them right now cause im 16 and in school. but yeah what to do?
Click to expand...

you cant put a lockright/no slip in your rear end...

trust me...

if you want one - put it in the front, or buy a new rear carrier, figure out how to install it, then install the locker...
 
This guy is talking about a vac-disconnect front D-30.
He should have no trouble on the street with the axle being welded/locked as the pass side axle will not be engaged.

I am also very interested as to why a locker would be better than welding the spider gears together on a vac-disco D30.
 
jfiscus said:
This guy is talking about a vac-disconnect front D-30.
He should have no trouble on the street with the axle being welded/locked as the pass side axle will not be engaged.

I am also very interested as to why a locker would be better than welding the spider gears together on a vac-disco D30.
Click to expand...


With the locker, when you let off the gas, the locker will unlock and release stress from the shafts. With welded spiders, there is no release, period, until you either spin a tire, break a shaft, or go back to two wheel drive. I'm with goatman and crash that I won't wheel with someone who's welded their spiders, especially up front. $225 for a lunchbox locker just doesnt cost that much, and its certainly less then the long term cost in shafts, u-joints, 6 packs of beer you owe guys that put your shit back together on the trail, 12 packs you owe when your replacing everyones spare shafts you borrowed, and club memberships to new clubs when no one will wheel with you anymore.

;)
 
cal said:
With the locker, when you let off the gas, the locker will unlock and release stress from the shafts. With welded spiders, there is no release, period, until you either spin a tire, break a shaft, or go back to two wheel drive. I'm with goatman and crash that I won't wheel with someone who's welded their spiders, especially up front. $225 for a lunchbox locker just doesnt cost that much, and its certainly less then the long term cost in shafts, u-joints, 6 packs of beer you owe guys that put your shit back together on the trail, 12 packs you owe when your replacing everyones spare shafts you borrowed, and club memberships to new clubs when no one will wheel with you anymore.

;)
Click to expand...

I have a question for you.. do you have a aussie locker and how do they work in the front axle??

from aussies web site:
The "Aussie Locker" mechanism allows a wheel to turn faster than the speed of the differential that is driving it (differentiation), but never allows a wheel to turn slower than the speed the differential and engine is turning it (traction). Therefore, a wheel cannot ever stop turning if the engine is driving it, but in a corner it can be forced to actually turn faster. Unlike a standard differential, the engine can never drive one wheel faster than the other

Now from that I don't see how it would release stress from the shafts, this a want I trying to find out and why I started this thread..

AND stop it with the "would'nt go wheelin with me if a weld".. I just would not tell you. :D I dont' care about that...
 
Last edited:
drbobxj said:
I have a question for you.. do you have a aussie locker and how do they work in the front axle??

from aussies web site:
The "Aussie Locker" mechanism allows a wheel to turn faster than the speed of the differential that is driving it (differentiation), but never allows a wheel to turn slower than the speed the differential and engine is turning it (traction). Therefore, a wheel cannot ever stop turning if the engine is driving it, but in a corner it can be forced to actually turn faster. Unlike a standard differential, the engine can never drive one wheel faster than the other

Now from that I don't see how it would release stress from the shafts, this a want I trying to find out and why I started this thread..
Click to expand...

When your going around a corner and both wheels are being driven, the vehicle will move at the speed of the wheel making the smaller arc (inside wheel), the aussie locker will allow the wheel on the outside to move faster, so it does not build up tension on the shaft. If i were on my desktop, I'd draw you a little diagram with stick figures. ;)
 
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