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Cutting torch

N

noresttill

NAXJA Forum User
Location
South Florida
I bought a donor vehicle for a 4WD conversion that has been sitting for a while and the lug nuts are STUCK. I used PB and wrenched them, but all I did was shear off the lug nut "cap" and strip them. So I started to cut them out, through the rim using a sawzall. PITA!

So I an going to buy a cheap cutting torch to get them off, Nothing fancy for welding or cutting steal, just something to get those lugs off and maybe some sheet metal for when I trim.

What should I look for and where. I would like to keep this as cheap as possible.

Thanks, Jesse
 
i would try to get one of those sockes used to remove stripped nuts. or try to pound on a smaller socket, and just use a large breaker bar and either break the lugnut loose or break the stud. i don't think yoru going to find a cheep cutting torch.
 
I think what Old Man meant is the cost is in the tanks about $105.00 for a small acetylene and $140.00 for a small Oxygen.
You can buy or rent tanks but the price is the same because of the deposit.
The torch set is about $120.00.
 
The easy outs for bolts work good but you can break the bolt clean off...

I did get a whole outfit, torch, hoses, tanks, regulator, carrier, etc for $80. Used stuff of course but in great shape and mostly all I needed was to replace tips. So if you look around in the paper, swap meets, or Craigs List, you might get lucky.
 
Last edited:
I dont mind breaking those bolts, I plan on replacing them anyway.

Also, I broke a ratchet on those things today, it was a 3/8 huskey, but still those suckers are on there! (HD gave me a new one :) )
 
If memory serves, you can use either an 18m/m or an 11/16" socket to remove the "uncapped" lug nuts. I'd also keep the socket with the cap in it, just in case. You can always knock it out later.

When you replace the nuts, you can get "one-piece" nuts pretty cheap, and nearly everywhere. Check carefully - the "one-piece" will not show a parting line near the tapered seat, while the "capped" nuts will.

5-90
 
The lug studs are 1/2-20.

The lug nuts are (usually) 3/4" hex, but without the cap you can use either an 18m/m or 11/16" socket to get a direct grip. While I had capped lugs (viz, before I replaced them all,) I also had a 3/4" socket with a cap stuck in it that I used on stripped lugs. Now that I've gotten rid of all of those, I've also knocked the cap out of the socket. However, that was an expedient - I hadn't had to use the "undersize" socket in a while, which is why I don't remember the size.

Also, try using a breaker bar instead of a ratchet - less moving parts, and more metal to back things up...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
The lug studs are 1/2-20.

The lug nuts are (usually) 3/4" hex, but without the cap you can use either an 18m/m or 11/16" socket to get a direct grip. While I had capped lugs (viz, before I replaced them all,) I also had a 3/4" socket with a cap stuck in it that I used on stripped lugs. Now that I've gotten rid of all of those, I've also knocked the cap out of the socket. However, that was an expedient - I hadn't had to use the "undersize" socket in a while, which is why I don't remember the size.

Also, try using a breaker bar instead of a ratchet - less moving parts, and more metal to back things up...

5-90
Click to expand...

It's 18 if (IF) rust has not eaten too far into the nut while the cap was still on. Unfortunately, what happens here often is that the nut rusts invisibly, causes the cap to swell out, which in turn causes the wrench to *&^% up the cap, so you chisel it off, and find that pieces fall off the nut before you even have a chance to ruin it with a wrench. Sometimes if 18 doesn't work, a well worn 11/16 impact socket can be hammered on, but whatever you use it's much better if it's 6 point, and you'd better be prepared to sacrifice the socket.
 
Im gonna buy those ez outs tomorrow, if they dont work ill buy a nice assortment of dewalt drill bits

i never heard of a nut splitter, nut buster...yes (my ex-boss for one), but not a nut splitter.
 
A "Nut Splitter" or a "nut breaker" is a roundish frame, with an anvil on one side (attached to a screw ram) and a hardened steel wedge on the other (attached to the frame.)

You use it by placing it around the nut and running in the screw ram. Once there is enough pressure on the nut, the wedge will "crack" the nut where it makes contact, and that will usually allow it to be removed. If the nut isn't loose enough after that, careful use of a cold chisel will usually suffice.

However, I'm not sure if you could get one around a lug nut with a wheel in place (depends upon the wheel design) and I'm not sure if the lug nuts are hardened or not - I'd be inclined to think they are, but I've been wrong before...

5-90
 
i stripped about 3 of mine... yea pita....big time..

i used a few tools to get it done: screw driver, hammer, mallet, nut cracker, brute force.


i then spent a good buck and got the real decent lug nuts that are *suppost* to withstand much more :D
 
Just on the subject of nut splitters. If you've never looked closely at one or used one, it's like a c-clamp with a very sharp hardened wedge in place of the screw end, but of course much stouter, and usually built with an offset so that it will fit flat on a surface. A great tool in the right place, but they're pretty finicky about placement, and if you don't get the wedge placed right on the nut it will slip off the nut and just make a mess. For a big nut it requires a great deal of torque on the wrench, and correspondingly better seating on the surface to prevent it from slipping off. I don't think you could ever get one onto a wheel, certainly never into an alloy wheel, and even if you could it would be nearly impossible to split a Jeep lug nut because of the mushroom base.

It might be possible to split a lug nut from the top down with a really good impact chisel, but I've never tried it. I would vote for the special socket or for a sacrificial undersized socket hammered on, possibly preceded by a good dose of heat.
 
matthew, i had no trouble getting mine into my wheel and i must say it was the most valuable tool for getting through this i had. :D
 
The wheels are like this
1512.jpg
so i doubt the nut splitter would work if they are finicky about fitment.

I bought the ez out from sears (BTW the ez outs are about $20 cheaper in the store than online) and the first one I tried I got it out in about 10 minutes. The others Im not so lucky (I think i will find other uses for them though). Tomorrow I will continue with the ez outs.

If they will not catch, what do you think is a sure fire way to get them out. I will go out and buy it and finish this job, money is an issue, but I need to be done with this. Im thinking air chisel (have complessor), drill bits (concerned with ruining them especially if they are expensive), cutting torch (though the price my be a little high)

Thank you all so much for your help,

Jesse
 
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