stupid brake bleeders

ive been working on an a 90 xj that im getting ready to sell. i replaced the rear brake line. i soaked the bleeders for about a week now in pb blaster. today i used a propane toarch and more pb to try and free them. a socket/ and a wrench both wouldnt turn it and ended up rounding it off. then i used channel locks and vise grips with no results. is there any special tool to get these out with? i may just spring for new cylinders.

well since there is already a hole in them how bout trying a bolt extractor. make sure it is in there REALLY god before trying to unscrew them. Just a thought.

There is usually a "bleed wrench" that's nothing more than a deep offset box-end six-point wrench (did I just say that?) that's 1/4" on one end and 5/16" on the other. I think you'll pay about $10 - and it's worth every damn penny!

If you've already rounded them off (you say you have,) then you could try getting an "easy-out" or a left-handed tap down the centre hole. HOWEVER - this would take effort to do well - and yet more soaking with PB Blaster or air-tool oil, with special attention paid to the centre hole!

If you just replace the wheel cylinders (easiest way to go, I'm afraid,) take out the bleed screws, apply a LIGHT coat of never-seez, and reinstall. You should go over all the threads - LIGHTLY - and just around the corner to the "flare" surface, since that's usually what freezes up.

Everytime you service your brakes, repeat the never-seez. I have been doing that for 25 years, and haven't had a bleeder stick on me...

5-90

awesome thanks. yes i wasnt useing just a regulare wrench i was using a flare wrench made specifically for use on fittings.

I understand - but I've found best results when using a six-point box end wrench. You can use a 12-point IF YOU HAVE TO, but a six-point offers the best grip and the lowest possbility of rounding off the corners.

5-90

yaya it was a six point.

Everytime I ruin a bleeder it is with one of the "specialty brake" flare wrenches.
I think when you start to torque on them, the flare opens up a bit, causing the rounding.

I do the same thing as 5-90 (6 pt. box wrench) and never have any issues.

As for your issue, how about the Craftsman bolt outs? I don't know if they would be deep enough, but they look like they would do a damn good job.

Good luck

I'm familiar with flare nut wrenches - I have several.

The difference is that a box wrench will have NO give to it, unlike a flare nut wrench, which has the open side. No matter how tough the steel is, it will still have a little "give" to it (lookup "elatic deformation of metals") and there's not a damn thing you can do about it.

Like I said, I've got several flare nut wrenches, in sizes from 1/4" to about 2". Still, I will ONLY use a six-point box wrench on a bleed screw, just because nearly anything else can strip them or round them off. I've been able to use a 12-point where I can't get "swing space" to use the six, but given a choice, I will always use the six.

The bleed nipples are softer than you think - I've rounded them off with open ends, with flare nut wrenches, and even with 12-point wrenches when I'm stuck. A six-point, box end wrench is the ONLY thing I've had consistently good luck with.

Just sharing the benefits of my experience...

5-90