I've done it twice - on an 87 and an 89. That was several years ago, and neither has developed new leaks.
The rear main seal is a semi-rigid two-piece seal, and the "Sneaky Pete" tool that you'd use for SBC/SBF "rope" seals won't work. The brass punch or drift that is used to "pop" the seal out works because the rubber seal has a steel core, and you push on that.
Check your rear main journal when you have everything torn to bits - if there's a groove worn in it (it happens...) you'll want to get the "double-lip" seal from Fel-Pro, so the second lip will ride on a smooth surface and you'll get a good seal. Most of the time, when I've found out about a rear main that didn't fix the leak, that's what it turns out to be.
If you're lifted 3" or more, you can pull the pan with all four feets on the ground. Less than 3" lift, and you should jack the front up so that the front axle hangle in the air a bit, and sits at "full droop." For a stocker, this is MANDATORY. You don't have to unbolt anything - just jack up the front, put stands under the frame rails, and let the axle droop.
Note that a "speedi-sleeve" will probably be a more involved repair than the double-lip seal. I've done a few.
Soaking the new seal in oil (and maybe rubbing the lip a bit with your fingertips!) is a great way to ensure that a pliable seal is installed, and the slight oil permeation on the upper half helps it slip into place using only finger pressure.
You might want to pull a cap or two while you're down there, and visually inspect the bottom end bearings.
5-90