Highsteer questions

My dads xj is a 89, he picked up a set of axels the front is a hp44. I would like to buy him the parts he will need for a highsteer conversion for xmas. I've been looking on ebay and found a few but I dont want to buy the wrong ones. The ones I was looking at are flat top dana 44 knuckles some of them had some work done to them for the conversion to highsteer. Are those the ones I should get? What else will I need to get to make it complete. Could I find the knuckles ready to bolt in, in the bone yard? If so what year make ect? Thanks, John

Is he going to run leaves up front or coils? What off-set on wheels? Are they 15" wheels?

Do the axles have flatt top knuckles?

What D-44's is he using. We need more info...

He's putting coils in it, I dont know about the rim b/s because he is getting the 44 retubed, he dont know if he is going to go waggy width or a custom width at this time. I dont know if it came with flat tops, the 44 came from a 79 bronco but we were not sure if it was the factory dif. Im sorry I dont know much about front difs. this is my first 4x4 so alot of this is pretty new to me and I cant ask my dad it's for Xmas gift.

Here is a link to a post that should help

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52219&highlight=crash+dana

BillaVista's site is excellent as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Index/SteeringIndex.htm

This link is specifically about high steer setups.

Ben
2001 XJ

Sweet ! Thanks alot.

be careful on ebay, I've seen a lot of knuckles that are sold as flat tops that really only the driver's side is a flat-top, which is what came under millions of Chevys and is hardly worth anything.

if you want a whole package, quality and ready to go call Parts Mike
www.partsmikeparts.com

BrettM said:

if you want a whole package, quality and ready to go call Parts Mike
www.partsmikeparts.com

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I second Brett's suggestion. Tracking down flattop knuckles in a yard can take a fair amount of time and then you have to be willing to do some research to determine exactly the right type of knuckle you need to pull, where you will likely find them, etc... Or, you could roll the dice on ebay. If you dont have the time to do your research then just by em new (although its rather pricey :wierd: ).

-jm

New are pricey indeed. Once in awhile I see the knuckles with the steering arms included they go for about $100. As long as I dont get ripped off everything should be ok, I need to get him something that will suprise him and he will be able to actually use this year. Last year I got him one of those so called performance chips, this fall he gave it back to me along with a high milage 90 limited. Since then I put on an old 3in. lift, dana 44 rear, body work, and a bunch of the cheaper mods and upgrades. ( I never got around to installing that chip yet, maybe I can regift to someone else)

jonnyxj said:

New are pricey indeed. Once in awhile I see the knuckles with the steering arms included they go for about $100. As long as I dont get ripped off everything should be ok, I need to get him something that will suprise him and he will be able to actually use this year. Last year I got him one of those so called performance chips, this fall he gave it back to me along with a high milage 90 limited. Since then I put on an old 3in. lift, dana 44 rear, body work, and a bunch of the cheaper mods and upgrades. ( I never got around to installing that chip yet, maybe I can regift to someone else)

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Beware, if it's a J-shaped arm on the driver's side knuckle it's a factory steering arm for push/pull steering, and is useless for you, and only worth a few dollars at most. Steering arms for high-steer will run around $100 each and when I found a passenger side knuckle, flattop, machined flat, drilled and tapped, with new balljoints, for $125 I jumped on it because it was a great deal.

xjaddiction said:

Is he going to run leaves up front or coils? What off-set on wheels? Are they 15" wheels?

Do the axles have flatt top knuckles?

What D-44's is he using. We need more info...

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Sorry here, bro'.

He said he has a HP44, so that means it's a Ford axle and does not have flat top knuckles. It makes little difference what wheel offset he's going to run, or whether he'll run leaves or coils. We don't need anymore information.


Hey, nice idea for a Xmas present for Dad.

The links that have been posted are good ones, should give you the info you need. I'll hit the high points. The Chevy D44 knuckles are flat on top because Chevy used a short curved steering arm that bolted to the top of the drivers side knuckle, hence the flat top that high steer arms are bolted to. The passenger knuckles are basically flat, but still need to be taken to a machine shop and milled perfectly flat and drilled and tapped for the studs. The Chevy came with a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern on the hubs, so unless the rear axle is also going to be 6 on 5.5 (like Waggy stuff), you'll need F150 hubs and rotors to get 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. It can be easiest, and many times cheapest, to just get new F150 hubs and rotors from a discount parts house, like Autozone. Anything from mid 70's to mid 80's works. Use the Chevy spindle and caliper, with the Ford hub and rotor. Now, since an XJ uses a 5 on 4.5" wheel bolt pattern, the rear axles will need to be changed to match the front 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern, but don't worry about that since your Dad has likely already considered it when he got the front D44. Then, you'll need to get the high steer arms, with studs, nuts and conical sleeves.

So, a parts list is:

Chevy D44 knuckles, calipers, and spindles
Ford F150 hubs and rotors
New high steer arms and hardware
Or, buy everything from Parts Mike.

If you can't find or afford everything, I'm sure he would appreciate whatever part of it you could get, I know I would.

I went through the process of buying all the hardware to put high-steer on my '79 Ford front axle. Knowing what years are truly flat top knuckles and what components to put together can be daunting. The "Crash" thread referenced above is good info, as is the Pirate4x4 link. Here's another "must read link discussing flat top knuckles: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

Crane makes a Classic Flat Top knuckle that is drilled and tapped for $180ea. These are cool because they are cast with the stock arms still in place in addition to the flat top so you can run just cross-over if you don't want full high-steer. Add to that highsteer arms and mouting hardware($209 - Parts Mike). Don't forget the chevy caliper brackets, spindles, calipers, and ford hub/rotors that Goatman mentioned. You will also want to add spindle bearings, wheel bearings, and new hubs while your at it. And don't forget your chevy stub shafts, and the new tie rod/drag link setup. All of which you can get new at completeoffroad.

The money adds up quick. I'm doing the same project with a '76 F150 D44 but will not be running the high-steer to save money.

Greg

xjbubba said:

Here's another "must read link discussing flat top knuckles: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

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Ditto.

Greg

Wow! that is some informative reading. I am still going to do some research on this for a couple of days and then I guess I'm gonna jump in. I will surely have to read all that once more, I am entertaining the thought of getting some fsj knuckles machined but I have to learn more about this. Thanks, John

Goatman said:

Sorry here, bro'.

He said he has a HP44, so that means it's a Ford axle and does not have flat top knuckles. It makes little difference what wheel offset he's going to run, or whether he'll run leaves or coils. We don't need anymore information.

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sorry but you are wrong there Goat.they used a Dana 44HP with flat tops in the later 70's F250 .it also used a J-hook arm with push/pull on the driverside.

how would i know i have one and the passenger side was tapped for an arm.

Got me on that one......learn something new every day.

Wil Badger said:

sorry but you are wrong there Goat.they used a Dana 44HP with flat tops in the later 70's F250 .it also used a J-hook arm with push/pull on the driverside.

how would i know i have one and the passenger side was tapped for an arm.

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yes but using one of them requires that you use the 3/4 ton outers which includes drum brakes if memory serves...

Deadenbear is now making 5 stud ford 1/2 ton disc break knuckles which will work and allow flat tops with all ford outters... a good option if like me, you have already put $$$ into all ford stuff because you couldnt find a good enough deal on chevy stuff when you were doing your build...

ah nope .nothing in the late 70's came with drum up front.
this was before full clean up

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Don't believe there are any donor parts that allow for 5 on 5&1/2 wheels, rotors, etc, when using 3/4-ton knuckles. Your stuck with the 3/4 ton lug pattern (8?).