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wow another XJ wont start

xjweeble

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Upstate NY
Ok i know its been covered a bazillian times. And iv tryed most things i can think of.

I got a 95 sport 4.0 auto. Quit while driving it never started back up. Fuses for the Engine controle were blown and i found bare wires on the CPS so i replaced them. I have no spark at all, no power to distributor and no power to the coil. The computer throws me a code 11 wich i thought the CPS would fix. No go. Any Ideas anyone?

Also when i unhook the fule line right before the filter( near the tank) It will pump for aboug 2 secs when key is turned from off to run. Then it will pump for two more secs when turned from Run to Start. When left in Run it doesnt keep pumping. I allways thought it should with no pressure and all.
 
Pump is controlled by the ECu, it won't run after you turn the key back to run unless the ECU knows the engine is running.
Turn the engine over, then pull a plug, if it's wet you've got fuel. Have you checked for spark?
 
yes i have checked for spark and tested allthe leads going into the distributor and coil. Not a damn thing.

EDIT: I have also tryed spraying gas into the iintake tube while cranking

keep em comming
 
Not a damned thing as in no spark? Spraying fuel into the intake isn't going to fix a no spark condition.
Did you replace the CPS itself or just the wires? If you had bare wires and it grounded out enough to pop a fuse I'd say that at the very least the CPS is toast. That's where I would start.
 
xjweeble said:
Ok i know its been covered a bazillian times. And iv tryed most things i can think of.

I got a 95 sport 4.0 auto. Quit while driving it never started back up. Fuses for the Engine controle were blown and i found bare wires on the CPS so i replaced them. I have no spark at all, no power to distributor and no power to the coil. The computer throws me a code 11 wich i thought the CPS would fix. No go. Any Ideas anyone?

Also when i unhook the fule line right before the filter( near the tank) It will pump for aboug 2 secs when key is turned from off to run. Then it will pump for two more secs when turned from Run to Start. When left in Run it doesnt keep pumping. I allways thought it should with no pressure and all.
Code 11 is battery has been disconnected.
 
Langer1 WRONG

# 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
# 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected

www.allpar.com
 
Just installed new distributor, and coil. Still no starting goin on. The old dist has 3.5 volts comming out of it. One of the leads going into it has 4.5 Volts and the other one nothing. Any idea what these are supposed to read?
 
xjweeble said:
Just installed new distributor, and coil. Still no starting goin on. The old dist has 3.5 volts comming out of it. One of the leads going into it has 4.5 Volts and the other one nothing. Any idea what these are supposed to read?
The supply wire is orange, should be 5 volts, it comes from pin 7 at the PCM.
The signal out is tan and yellow and should also read five volts, but only when the distributor rotor is in the right spot. You can turn the engine over by hand and check the voltage when it pulses. The signal out wire goes to pin 44 at the PCM.
Black and lite blue is the ground wire.
Checks should be made with the connector connected and the black with LT blue ground wire used. You can get funky readings grounding to chassis or battery grounds.
 
Thanks 8Mud ill check that tonight. Chrysler techs said to make sure the rotor is spinning as well. If thoes leads dont read as said does that mean my computer is dead?
 
Ok played around with the voltmeter tonight.

The two wires comming out of the distributor cap
Orange = 7.3 volts
Tan and yellow = 5 volts, drops then goes back up as engine is turned over

Coil
5 volts at the pug wire that feeds the distibutor drops voltage as engine cranks then goes back to 5.

Crank position snesor
Center wire .3 ohms
wire with higher voltage of the two wires left is 7.3V
third wire and wire with lower voltage of the two was 1.45 and stayed at exactly that while turning engine over by hand. Now its my understanding that the low voltage wire is supposed to go from 5-0 volts averaging 2.5 volts. Is it possible i put in a out of the box busted CPS?
 
xjweeble said:
Ok played around with the voltmeter tonight.

The two wires comming out of the distributor cap
Orange = 7.3 volts
Tan and yellow = 5 volts, drops then goes back up as engine is turned over

Thats just about what I got on my last test also, not exactly what the book calls for, but mine works just fine.

QUOTE=xjweeble]Ok played around with the voltmeter tonight.
Coil
5 volts at the pug wire that feeds the distibutor drops voltage as engine cranks then goes back to 5.
[/QUOTE]

I don't know exactly what you tested, some wire colors, pin letters/numbers and the number of pins on the connector really help narrow things down.

Be a little careful, which kind of meter you use, some pass to much juice and act like a short in certain applications. Digital meters are usually OK. But you sometimes have to use analogue meters for some tests, which always makes me nervous. Unless a test specifically calls for an analogue meter I avoid them.
 
Last edited:
I am using a digital multi tester. I give up shes going to the dealership this morning to get hooked to there fancy computer diagnostic machine.
 
ok update on the jeep that couldnt

New Dist cap, wires,pugs,relays ,fuses,sensor in the dist, Coil, and several new crank position sensors and a new computer. all read within specs givin wihin this post except for the CPS. On the low volatage wire i get 1.45 volts where as its suposed to be 0-15 V.


can anyone tell me anything else i can do before i drive over this POS with my big jeep
 
Iv concluded that i am still not getting any crank reference signal from the CPS.
This leads me to think that the actual reference point the CPS looks at somehow isnt working or the aftermarket sensor is rejected by the ECU and i should get the 100 dollar OEM sensor from jeep.

Someone shed some light here
 
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