Front D44 pinion depth questione

OK, I've searched in depth, but haven't answered my question. But got to say, I've learned a ton in the process! Searching is highly recommended!
Now to my question. Just received a new Yukon ring and pinion set from PORC. 4.56's for a high-pinion D44.
The pinion has 2.624 etched on the "button" end. I know the nominal distance from the ring gear center line to the top of the pinion is supposed to be 2.625 (factory spec for D44). Can I interpret the difference between the nominal and the new pinion, .001, as equivalent to a "-1" etched on the pinion? My old pinion has a "+3" etched on the pinion, and according to figure 156 in my Dana/Spicer axle manual, I need to add .004 to the original shim pack IF the new pinion has a "-1" etched on it.
Second question: In another forum, someone stated that a beam-type torque wrench cannot be used to check/set pinion bearing preload. In that forum(Pirate4x4) no one responded to that comment. Any comments/suggestions regarding pinion bearing preload adjustment?
I've noticed many Diff builders say a case spreader is not necessary to install gears in a D44. I just received a new ARB. The carrier bearing backlash and preload appear to be set by a combination of shims on BOTH sides of the bearings. It would appear that a spreader is absolutely required in order to install the carrier with the required preload shims without destroying the shims.

Everything you've said there is pretty much true.

The 'checking distance' is what's etched on the pinion there, and if you had a pinion depth tool, you could base your distance off that. Using the original shim pack and modifying it according to that number is an excellent way to get started, although I'd still check the pattern afterwards anyway.

I've done several successful gear installs using a bunch of different torque wrenches, whatever was around at the time. The beam type CAN be used, but it's difficult to read because you'll be spinning it around, and as soon as you stop moving to read it, it's not right anymore. Most recently I used a 'clicker' type of wrench, where it clicks over when the proper torque is reached, and I liked that.

From Dana specs, it's theoretically impossible to get proper preload if you don't use a spreader. Like, if you can get the carrier in with just your hands or a small hammer, it's probably not tight enough. However, Dana axles are notorious for 'loosening up' after a while, which is why the carrier can be easily removed sometimes, and also why they require it to be so tight in the first place.

My experience with ARB installs has been limited to a front D60, but there was no way in hell that thing was going in without a spreader. There IS a strange shim setup on the ARB to accomodate the air collar...IIRC what we did was use the ones behind the ring gear to set the backlash, while using the ones on the other side of the carrier to establish preload - while checking backlash, we kept the preload rather loose...enough that the carrier didn't move around, but loose enough that it could be pulled in and out by hand. Once backlash and pinion depth were set properly, we added a few thousandths more on the carrier side (just enough that it wouldn't fit in without the spreader), then spread the case and dropped it in.

Appreciate the comeback--with regard to using a clicker-style torque wrench to set pinion preload, at least one person says it can't be done. I wasn't sure why not and am glad to here you've done so. It sounds like you've done your share of set-ups. I don't own an inch-pound torque wrench and was going to buy clicker-type to match my other two until the "can't use it" comment.

The problem with a clicker is that it will click when preset value is reached. So if you it set at 8 in/lbs at the preload on your pinion is way too tight, say 20 inch/lbs your clicker will click but you will not be in range. I suppose you could then set it higher to your max range and make sure it doesn't click. But that could get tedious.

Also I personally haven't seen a clicker that goes below 15inch/lbs. Which is higher than most specs. Not saying they aren't out there, you just may have a tough time finding one.

vetteboy, how low does your go and where di you get it?

not sure if this will help but here ya go


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billa...Ring and Pinion installation instructions.pdf

if that dont work its number 4 on the right under axles

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/index.html

cLAYH said:

The problem with a clicker is that it will click when preset value is reached. So if you it set at 8 in/lbs at the preload on your pinion is way too tight, say 20 inch/lbs your clicker will click but you will not be in range. I suppose you could then set it higher to your max range and make sure it doesn't click. But that could get tedious.

Click to expand...

Yeah, pretty much. You just keep upping the setting until it doesn't click anymore.

Mine goes down to 15 in-lbs, with increments of 1 in-lb...it's made by Husky. Pinion preload on a 14FF, say, is around 20-25 in-lbs so it's fine for that. A D60 is 20-30 in-lbs with new bearings, a D44 is 20-40 or so.