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stupid oil leaks

funvtec

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oak creek, WI
ok heres what i got going on

90 4.0 4x4

oil leaks all over

#1 needed a new pcv tube installed ( didn't have 1 when i bought it) fixed
#2 the valve cover started to leak then
#3 changed valve cover gasket, fixed the leak
#4 front breather tube was leaking, replaced with a small filter, fixed
then it was fine for about a week until all of a sudden when i park the jeep i get puddles the size of texas under the back of the engine, so i searched as much as i could i even double checked the valve cover gasket its fine. I then degreased the engine really good because there was so much gunk everywhere i couldnt see where it was comng from.

so with the engine clean and dry it looks as if i have an oil leak coming from inbetween the inspection cover and the engine does this mean i have a bad rear main ir a bad oil pan gasket

BTW auto zone brand engine cleaner works really well
 
pics of the problem area+ its looking like the head gasket is gonna need to be changed to

leakyjeep002.jpg

leakyjeep003.jpg

leakyjeep004.jpg

leakyjeep001.jpg
 
ok i called the parts store to find out whats its going to cost for the rear main and there are 2 listings. how do i know which one i need i think he said one was an off set lip
 
funvtec said:
BTW auto zone brand engine cleaner works really well

Really? I work at AZ and our stuff is usually $hit compared to the name brands.

Our stuff is VERY cheap, but I had no idea that it works that well. I guess that I will stop using dishsoap and a hose!
 
For the second listing ("offset" or "double lip" rear main,) you'll have to inspect. Sometimes, grit or crud gets caught under the lip, and wears a groove in the rear main journal under the lip. Therefore, a repair seal is offered with a double lip or an "offset" lip so that the seal lip will ride on a new surface.

Similar would be for the front main seal, where a "sleeve & seal" is offered. Essentially, this invovles a shrink-fit sleeve that fits over the sealing surface, and provides a new seal bearing surface for the seal lip.

Both of these are a temporary fix, and the best is to have a cranshaft shop do a "weld and grind" to fill the groove - but this might cost more than a new crank. I suppose an undersize seal - similar to an undersize bearing - might be offered, but I can't swear to it at the moment.

Again, if it's just the seal that's worn out, you can get away with installing a new seal. If it's the crankshaft surface, you'll want a "double lip" or "offset lip" seal, and that's something that can only be told by inspection. If you see a clear line where the seal rides, clean the crank thooughly and run your fingernail over the line - if you feel it, it's time for the "repair" seal - the offset or double-lip verison.

5-90
 
5-90 said:
For the second listing ("offset" or "double lip" rear main,) you'll have to inspect. Sometimes, grit or crud gets caught under the lip, and wears a groove in the rear main journal under the lip. Therefore, a repair seal is offered with a double lip or an "offset" lip so that the seal lip will ride on a new surface.

Similar would be for the front main seal, where a "sleeve & seal" is offered. Essentially, this invovles a shrink-fit sleeve that fits over the sealing surface, and provides a new seal bearing surface for the seal lip.

Both of these are a temporary fix, and the best is to have a cranshaft shop do a "weld and grind" to fill the groove - but this might cost more than a new crank. I suppose an undersize seal - similar to an undersize bearing - might be offered, but I can't swear to it at the moment.

Again, if it's just the seal that's worn out, you can get away with installing a new seal. If it's the crankshaft surface, you'll want a "double lip" or "offset lip" seal, and that's something that can only be told by inspection. If you see a clear line where the seal rides, clean the crank thooughly and run your fingernail over the line - if you feel it, it's time for the "repair" seal - the offset or double-lip verison.

5-90


got ya! thanks for the info, i believe a friend of mine had the same issue in his 5.0 mustang
 
LazarusMJ said:
Really? I work at AZ and our stuff is usually $hit compared to the name brands.

Our stuff is VERY cheap, but I had no idea that it works that well. I guess that I will stop using dishsoap and a hose!


yeah i was really surprized i didn't expect much and my engine was really greasy and grimy not just fresh oil but years of gunk 3 cans and 15 minutes and a garden hose and anywhere i sprayed well was bone dry of oil
 
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