dana 30 strength.

whats the best/strongest way to build a dana 30 up for kinda cheap...my jeeps the 96 so does that mean it has the better u-joints?.... will i be able to run 36's reliabley or am i goin to have to moove to a dana 44?

ccflexj said:

whats the best/strongest way to build a dana 30 up for kinda cheap...my jeeps the 96 so does that mean it has the better u-joints?.... will i be able to run 36's reliabley or am i goin to have to moove to a dana 44?

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36's on a 30? nope

96+ means that you do have the larger u-joints spicer part number 5-760x

try it out - if it works for you tell the world that i am a liar...

also include the following data in your findings -
wheel bearing life span
ring gear life span
housing life span
axle shaft life span

and the expectancy for anyone else based on your findings.

you need a little time here:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?

36's on a d30 will work if you leave it open diff'd, take it very easy on the skinny pedal, and keep a close eye on things for problems. i did it for a while and dropped down to 35's to keep my axles alive a little longer. however, lock it, slam the pedal down, and find some traction and there is no question it WILL go :explosion

I'm feeling especially generous today:

Edit: This link now takes you to Mod Tech rather than the forthcoming FAQ:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70422&highlight=dana+tech

I'll go out on a limb and say that you can run 36's - or even 37's if you're willing to spend the money on a chromo. set of shafts... But even that is no guarntee that the D30 will survive...
And yes I realize these are not full weight rigs... hasta





-Will

I dont know about the others above, but this is how I see it:
D30 weakness: housing strength is marginal compared to a regular 1/2 ton truck 44, gear strength, especially at numerically higher ratios, is limited, and the unit bearing hubs SUCK, easy to change axles and all, but.............
I think if I wasnt going beyond a 37, I would consider beefing the d30, because you have it. I wouldnt go beyond a 4.56, and as said above a set of alloy shafts would be a must. I hate to have a Pirate attitude, but I think they are right, the limited strength gain, if any at all, of a D44, would persuade me to D60 it instead!! The advantages of a D44 I see are, much stronger servicable hub assemblies, housing and gear strength, but no real shaft or ball joint advantage, as they are the same. I would go d44 if I was going to leaf spring the front, but Id keep the d30 if keeping the coils. I would also go d44 if I HAD to exceed the 4.56 mark as well (have you seen a d30 4.88 set, sheesh, I thought Toyota 5.29 pinion gears were small!!)