Alternator opinion

My stock alternator just isn't cutting it anymore. I would like to replace it. What do yall think about this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33573&item=2422994415
Please gives reasons for your answers to help me. TIA!

Before you go buy a new alternator try Craig H's suggestion. I noticed more volts on my dash board gauge when I did this http://www.olypen.com/craigh/charge.htm

I have a 88 XJ and our XJs use the Delco CS-130 alternator. There is an upgrade alternator called the CS-144 which has the same mount and electrical connections.

I purchased a 140 amp CS-130 alternator with the iceberg kit from www.alternatorparts.com. You can read up on the different GM alternators.

The iceberg kit gives you fins on the back half of the case to get heat out of the rectifier. I have not no problems with this new alternator.

The CS-144 is a larger case alternator which was designed for bigger loads. I think it would fit just find if you do not have front tow hooks. I have front tow hooks and the rear most bolt come through the frame right by the alternator.

I find it strange that we can buy "new" on the internet cheaper than a good rebuilt at our local parts store.

Any more questions just ask.

Would 140 amps be sufficient to power a/c, lights, stereo +1 more aux device?

I was wondering the same thing as I have a high output stereo that takes all my power away from my alternator and it dips into the red at night with just regular lights on. If I am not mistaken a good alternator is one that puts out plenty of amps at idle and I know powermaster does a good job-----just can't find how much they are. I am thinking about doing olypens upgrade but I am a little worried as I am no electrical guru.----Kyle

I think a 140 amp should do you fine. Remember power = volts x amps. If you install a 140 amp alt and assume just 12 volts give you 1680 watts. Start counting how much power your head lights use, stereo, amp, etc and you will find this plenty of power.

I failed to mention before that cleaning the grounds can also help you out. On my 88 XJ the ground for the headlights is on the driver's fender about midway between the radiator and the firewall. I used a wire brush, cleaned off the paint, applied ox-gard to the terminals and to the fender and re assembled. I hade brighter head lights when I was finished.

Remember time is taking it toll on our electrical system, nothing wrong with cleaning grounds.

I also recommend you run a wire from the alternator case to the chassis. I found a wire 24 inches or shorter does the trick. If it gets longer then the current uses another path. I attached my wire to one of the studs holding the ignition coil to the chassis. You will need a 8 mm bolt to attach the wire to the CS-130 case. GM was nice to give you a threaded hole to "bond" the alternator to the chassis.

When I changed my alternator I used oxgard on all the mounting bolts to make for the best possible ground path.

Powermasters will run about 149.00 from performaceproducts.com
140 amps is a great amount of power to have. I have the Powermaster on mine. With the lights one, AC, radio it works great. It does dip down below the half way mark at idle but goes back up with the old foot on the gas. I would recommend on if your in the red at night. Not a good thing. Juice

I just checked performanceparts and they dont carry my year.
Martin: I checked iceberg and I like what I see. Do you think the 170 amp cs-130 will fit without problems? If so, should I spend the extra money on the single wire adapted one? save my $30 some-odd dollars and get the standard hookup? Thanks!

1990 XJ 4.0 right?

http://www.performanceproducts.com/...r+Alternators&productid=105087&producttype=20

That is the link to what you need. 164.95 for the natural, or 2??.00 for other one. Juice

Since you have the standard hook up I'd save my $ and buy that one. No need to reinvent the wheel.

I am sure the 170 amp version will also fit your vehicle since the case is idential in size, it just the interals which are different.

I'd check around, think JC Whittney along with others see iceberg CS-130 alternators.

I am not saying to buy from alternatorparts.com just said I had a good experience with them. You can sent them an email, tell them what you have make/model/ year/ engine and ask if the alternator will fit. I'd also still consider the CS-144 if you want a more rugged alternator but there no iceberg kit for it since they dont' have the heat problem the CS-130 has.

BUT before you order do the wiring upgrade you may find out that all you need to do. I used #4 for my wires but to do it over again I'd buy a #2 to run from the alternator to the start relay stud. You know the moster cable thinking, bigger is better for DC.

Holy balls....

I was reading through this and decided to check out how much a better alt for my 00 would be from Performance ....

Natural 170/110 AMPS $394.95


There's gotta be something better priced out there huh?

I dont know how much different the 00 and 90 are but did you check alternatorparts.com? They have nice prices, and good customer service. Just dont order online, call them. They can tell you what you need to know. For that price you can get a MG.

1990 = Delco
2000 = Mitsubishi.

I keep tellin' ya guys - find a local. You'd probably want to kill me if I told you what I paid for my rewinds (hint - less than a c-note!) to get high-output alternators and high-torque starters...

Here's something else to check - ditch the woven aluminum braid ground strap from the head to the firewall - it's pathetic at best, and before it's dirty enough or failed enough to see it as a problem you're ground is already starting to float. Replace with 4gage battery cable (good) or 2/0 welder cable left over from your battery cable upgrade (better!) - even a handful of 10gage "real" wire is an improvement!

Concur with the "bonding" of the alternator case - short wire = big help. Since electricity takes the path of least resistance, a wire there will help - just make it long enough to reach and short enough to keep out of the way. I don't remember how long mine is, but it runs from the alternator case to the battery negative.

When making cables, put Ox-Gard in the lug BEFORE you crimp (some should squidge out when you do hit the crimper) and use heat shrink tubing to extend the jacket over the lug shank. Works nice...

5-90

i gonna go out and get the new wires today. FYI, I originaly did talk to an alternator shop around here. the guuy said he could only get my stock up to like 110 max amps, but the idle would stay the same. All for 135$..... The alt shops around here suck and are rip-offs.

Where is the best place to get ox-guard and GOOD heat shrink?

Most any big hardware store will have Oxgard and heat shrink. Another good place for all sorts of electrical stuff is specialty boat stores (yachts and stuff) since those guys do a lot of custom electrical work, and have to make it stand up to a harsh environment. Try to avoid household/building type electrical supplies because they're made for a much more benign environment than your jeep will see.

Places like West Marine? If so im in luck

Yep, West Marine is a good one. Atlanta's probably got a lot of 'em.

NO luck! Went to marine west and a boat shop. Neither place had the fuse (shown on gojeeps website). They all had reqular fuses.......
What are my option now? I got the wire, clamps but no fuse.....
oh yeah, should i be getting a 175 amp fuse, since the alternator is 170 amps? or should i get a 150 amp fuse?

west marine

West Marine has those fuses listed online and in their catalog. I'm sure that a local store could order them for you if they don't stock them, but my local West Marine DOES stock them.

You may want to consider changing the fuzible links out for a MAXI fuze block, and do your power distribution from there like on later-model cars - it's one of the few late-model design ideas I like (I'm not fond of electronic control, and at 6'3" I'm too tall for airbags - legally, I can have them disabled, if I recall FMVSS correctly...)

This would obviate the need for keeping fuze link wire around, just an extra set of MAXI fuzes. I've not done the mod on my XJ yet, but it's easy enough to do, and I've done it on "restomods" - mainly Corvettes, Camaros, and Mustangs. I find the idea a considerable improvement over the use of fuzible link wire, easier to repair, and no need for so much "service loop" when you're fixing it...

5-90

i found a place online ( i ordered a 175 amp fuse and block) online.....
5-90, you lost me. I dont have any idea about this fusable link and what your talking about.