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damn got a np242...

ZachMan

ZachMan

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Memorial Lifetime Member
Location
Birmingham, AL
So I have big plans for my new '99 XJ, but when I took delivery of it I noticed the "full time 4wd" in the middle of the indicator by the shifter. So I searched on here first and see the TW makes an SYE for the 242, but its not an HD, more of a hack n tap?

My question is does anyone make an HD SYE for the np242? I do not plan to swap it out either.

Also, when can you put the t-case in "full time"? I've just been driving in 2wd.
 
I don't think anyone is making a HD SYE for the Jeep 242

You can use "full time" anytime you want all wheel drive. If you lived in a state that has a winter... you could shift it into 4WD full-time in Oct and back to 2WD in April.

I use mine when the roads are snowy/icy or sometimes if it's pouring down rain. I also use it when tearing through twisty gravel roads.
 
Well okay let me ask this...

I have a rythmic sound coming from what I think is the front driveshaft. Now I am told its normal on an np242 equipped Jeep, but whats gonna happen when I lift it 5" install an SYE and rear shaft? Will I need a front shaft or can you not even lift an np242 XJ? I have biiig plans.
 
IntrepidXJ said:
i have a 242 with the tom woods SYE. i never had a sound like you are describing before or after the SYE. my XJ is also lifted approx. 5" and still using the stock front shaft
Click to expand...


Well it either the front shaft or rear bearing in the 8.25, but I was told if it was bearings it wouldn't be a low pitched rythmic sound. I guess some get vibes/noises from the factory?

Heck I don't know what it is thats why I asked over in the unmodified forum. Its a whoooam...whoam...whoooam...whooam..low pitch kinda drone at 67+ mph.
 
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I would pull the front shaft and see if the sound goes away. If so you know the issue. If it does not, know that the front shaft is not the issue.

From the description it could be a variety of things including what you mentioned.

As stated I do not believe that you can get a HD SYE for the 242 but it is still a very good transfer case and the Full Time 4x4 just means that it alows sliping between the front and rear shafts so you can drive in 4x4 on dry pavement. The 231 is best not to drive on a "non slipery" surface in 4x4.

There should be nothing wrong with the length of the front shaft at 6" of lift. As long as you adjust the castor/pinion angle when you lift it, you should be able to eliminate any unusual noises/driving characteristics from angles.

Michael
 
Thnaks, Yeah I'll take the front shaft off this weekend and see if it helps. I've got a 2nd set of 98 XJ axles with 4.56s in them and lockers so if its my axles causing the sound then its not a big deal. Its just annoying ya know...if I never went over 65 mph I'd never really hear it.
 
its the c.v. in the front shaft i have the 242 and 4.5"lift and it goes whoooam...whoam...whoooam...whooam and when i took the front shaft off bc i was rebuilding the front axle it stoped i was told that my c.v. out of 2001 xj was going out already.I don't belive that it is just the sound of a 4x4 and your going to have to live with it.
 
littlebluexj said:
its the c.v. in the front shaft i have the 242 and 4.5"lift and it goes whoooam...whoam...whoooam...whooam and when i took the front shaft off bc i was rebuilding the front axle it stoped i was told that my c.v. out of 2001 xj was going out already.I don't belive that it is just the sound of a 4x4 and your going to have to live with it.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I was told buy another guy with a '00 AND np242.

Well I don't like it its kinda nnoying cause it gets kinda loud after driving for 30 minutes. :mad: I may get it rebuilt when I lift my Jeep.....and to think I spcifically looked for a 99 so I'd have the hp d30 and no issues with cv angles and a decent sized lift, errr.
 
ZachMan said:
Thats exactly what I was told buy another guy with a '00 AND np242.

Well I don't like it its kinda nnoying cause it gets kinda loud after driving for 30 minutes. :mad: I may get it rebuilt when I lift my Jeep.....and to think I spcifically looked for a 99 so I'd have the hp d30 and no issues with cv angles and a decent sized lift, errr.
Click to expand...

It's not a big deal to put the hack in tap on. Alot of people actually prefer the 242 for the fact it has a fulltime option and the unit is also somewhat stronger. Be happy you scored a rig with one....... :)
 
91 Jeep Project said:
It's not a big deal to put the hack in tap on. Alot of people actually prefer the 242 for the fact it has a fulltime option and the unit is also somewhat stronger. Be happy you scored a rig with one....... :)
Click to expand...

At first I was hapily surprised...just have been so all knowing about the 231 and I don't have a clue about the 242.

Yeah been talkin to DC of DC4wd and he said to forget the Tom Woods SYE, its the same as the RE hack N tap, but already done for you...plus TW core charge is now $400 so its $800 upfront an you get $400 back when you send him your output shaft, what a shaft, lol.
 
ZachMan said:
At first I was hapily surprised...just have been so all knowing about the 231 and I don't have a clue about the 242.

Yeah been talkin to DC of DC4wd and he said to forget the Tom Woods SYE, its the same as the RE hack N tap, but already done for you...plus TW core charge is now $400 so its $800 upfront an you get $400 back when you send him your output shaft, what a shaft, lol.
Click to expand...


Assuming the TW 242 SYE is the same as his 231, it isn't really the same as the RE, and in my opinion better. He actually cuts the stock output shaft shorter than you can with the RE (i.e. beyond the factory splines), and then resplines the shaft. He also uses a yoke instead of a flange. So in the end, you have a shorter (read less leverage) shaft, and a yoke that will fit with nearly any driveshaft. IMHO. the price is pretty steep, but I think there is a driveshaft included in that $400, so really not so bad...
 
I'd be glad to have it (which I do), but it is NOT stronger. It is slightly weaker than a 231--not by much, but it is the weaker of the two.
 
Timber said:
I'd be glad to have it (which I do), but it is NOT stronger. It is slightly weaker than a 231--not by much, but it is the weaker of the two.
Click to expand...

really?

------------------------------------

from here:

http://www.4x4now.com/bd0599.htm


New Venture Gear T-case terminology: In a separate conversation with me, Sankar K. Mohan of New Venture Gear defined what the numbers on their T-cases mean:

The first number is the number of speeds:

"1" = one speed (high range). Example – the NV 136.
"2" = two speeds (high range and low range). Example – the NV 241.

The second number is the strength:

The NV 241 is designated "4" in strength – tougher than the NV 231, but not as heavy duty as their largest T-cases, which go up to a "7" (eg, NV 273, for vehicles with a GVW of 17,500 lb).

The third number designates the type of T-case:

"1" = part-time 4WD
"2" = full-time 4WD with an open center differential plus lockable part-time option – like the Selec-Trac NV 242 of the Jeep Cherokee and Dodge Durango, or the Hummer’s NV 242HD AMG.
"3" = electrically shifted.
"4" = not currently used.
"5" = Torsen-type differential.
"6" = computer controlled multi-plate wet clutch, like GM’s AutoTrac NV 246.
"7" = GeroDisc – like the Grand Cherokee’s Quadra-Trac II NV 247.
"8" = not currently used.
"9" = viscous coupling.
 
I'd say something is wrong (stating the obvious, I guess) because even though they are slightly weaker than the 231, they are still quite strong.
 
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